Changing brake pads soon
#1
Changing brake pads soon
I need to change my pads soon. Last time I inspected them I noticed that the pads look to be held in place by a clip? I didnt spend alot of time checking them out but what Im wondering is...is there a site I can go to that shows how to change these pads or is it the standard way of taking out 2 bolts, pulling the calipers taking the pads out and replacing in reverse? Any advise a newbie to the 3 would need? Any specific brand I should use?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
RE: Changing brake pads soon
The inner pads in the rear (not sure about the front) are held onto the piston with those clips. Once the piston is compressed you just slide the new pad on from the side to attach it. It makes more sense if you're looking at it. FYI the rear piston must be turned to compress it. It's possible to do the old school way with pliers, but it's way easier to get a brake caliper tool which fits into the little nubs on the piston. I got mine for $18 at Harbor Freight. No need to open the resevoir, or the bleeder valve if you're just doing pads/rotors so the install is that much easier. For removeing the caliper there are two bolts on the back of the caliper with plastic dust covers. Remove the covers, pull the bolts and the caliper will come off. I believe the bolts are a #7 Allen.
As far as pads I went with Hawk HPS as I heard some pretty good reviews on them. They've been super quiet, and put out much less dust that the OE organic pads. If you go with those make sure you get the ones with the clips on them as there are two pads listed for the 3.
Once you have finished and reassemble everything you need to pump the e-brake a bunch (10-20 times) in order to ratchet the rear piston back out and put the pads in the proper position against the rotor. After that bed them in on the rotor and you're good to go.
As far as pads I went with Hawk HPS as I heard some pretty good reviews on them. They've been super quiet, and put out much less dust that the OE organic pads. If you go with those make sure you get the ones with the clips on them as there are two pads listed for the 3.
Once you have finished and reassemble everything you need to pump the e-brake a bunch (10-20 times) in order to ratchet the rear piston back out and put the pads in the proper position against the rotor. After that bed them in on the rotor and you're good to go.
#5
RE: Changing brake pads soon
Can anyone tell me who long it takes to turn the rear caliper piston back into the caliper? It seems like its going nowhere. Im turning clockwise with needle nose plyers. They need to go way in...
#6
RE: Changing brake pads soon
ORIGINAL: wooddy
Can anyone tell me who long it takes to turn the rear caliper piston back into the caliper? It seems like its going nowhere. Im turning clockwise with needle nose plyers. They need to go way in...
Can anyone tell me who long it takes to turn the rear caliper piston back into the caliper? It seems like its going nowhere. Im turning clockwise with needle nose plyers. They need to go way in...
Uhhh, what am I missing? I have been doing brake jobs for over thirty years and I have never once seen a caliper piston that "screwed" back into the caliper. As far as I know (having never done a brake job on a Mazda3), ALL pistons are pressed back into the caliper.
#7
RE: Changing brake pads soon
This is not new. In fact the first ones I saw were on a now old Saab 99 and we couldn"t figure out what was going on with them.But I"ll be damned if I can figure out why the manufacturer"s design them this way.
The pistons have to be screwed in AND compressed at the same time.
Go to your local (I hope) AutoZone and rent the caliper piston tool.
The pistons have to be screwed in AND compressed at the same time.
Go to your local (I hope) AutoZone and rent the caliper piston tool.
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98mazda626gurl
Mazda 323,Mazda 626 & Mazda 929
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01-11-2007 09:45 PM