I would like to know what type of oil I need to put in my 1989 323 Manual Transmission
5 speed.

Up here in Upstate NY the temp can get aslow as -18c/0 Fahrenheit.
80W90 Gear oil was put in the tranny when it was replaced in July.
Well, unless I have a block heater on the transmission for one hour; my car stalls
when I am in neutral with my foot on the break and I take my foot off of the clutch.
It also stalls out when it is putinto 1st and try to take off like normal.
I have asked a few parts dealers in my area and I cannot get a straight answer.
One place recommends ATF Dexron III. One guy says GL-5. And another says
Dexron II. Automatic Trans Fluidin a manual though?
The local mazda dealers are usesless. "Oh wow a 1989, hrm, can't help you.
My records don't go back that far."

So what can I replace my transmission fluid with instead of the molasas that I have in there.
An owners manual was not included with my car at the point of sale.
Thank you
savo

 

Savo, please see some info attached

 

Ok It's been 2 years. I still see no info attached.

As an update: It was driven once last winter. I think the Gear Oil has finally broken in. :- }

 

Synthetic oil does not GEL, it is viscous and still flows..

 

You do NOT put transmission FLUID in a manual transmission, you put in manual transmission OIL, so forget about putting ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid)/ Mercon/ Dexron anything into a manual transmission.
I have a '99 Protege in Montreal ( -30 Deg. F) and use the manufacturer's recommended API Service GL-4 or GL-5 (SAE 75W-90)
(Above 10 Deg. F you can use the more viscous SAE 80W 90).
Mazda's manual transmissions have not changed in donkey's years, so for you SAE 75W-90 is the right stuff to use.
If you stall out that easily, either your engine is not up to snuff, or you've got a gawd awful clutch/ gearbox issue. Starting with the engine, you should consider a compression check, although the 323 is a rugged critter and there are still many eighty-something specimens running very well with 300,000+ miles on the clock.
If the compressions are good, then you may have engine idle control loop issues to resolve, and since your vehicle predates the OBD standard, you pretty well have to place it in the the hands of a competent Mazda professional or get hold of a shop manual off E-Bay or Craigslist and do it yourself.

 

I thank you much for the reply. I have not seen the manual in years. Mostly I was commenting to the fact that it lists: "MANUAL TransAXLE : Use DEX II in winter" Paraphrased.

Her dad gave the 323 a few runs while it was off the road. And This winter even in -4 Deg Fahrenheit it did NOT stall. But the year prior, it would stall. Hooking up a small block heater to the bellhousing Did Eliminate the issue entirely that winter 2 years ago.
Aparently the Gear Oil we put in finally broke in. I am not sure.

Should we change we have in there? It sat mostly unused for 2 years. It was taken off the road due to needing motor mounts, and tie rod end. And not having the cash.
What weight oil should we use? How often should it get changed? It is not the original trans. It was from a salvage yard with unknown miles in it.

The engine has 280,000 miles on it. We do know that trying to progress up a steep hill now (with replaced trans) it seems to have a hard time than it did with the old busted trans.

Thanks. so my questions are
Should we change we have in there? It sat mostly unused for 2 years.
What weight oil should we use? How often should it get changed?

Thank You.

 

The Gear oil can last over 100,000 Km.
The Gear oil should have been changed after sitting for 2 years.
The Gear oil can be 75w90 to 80w90. Synthetic can run as much a $10.00 a quart.
The Transmission can take normally 3 or 4 Quarts.

After two years of sitting, many of the seals will need to be replaced. Keep checking for leaks.

 

The SAE rating I described gives you the weight (viscosity), and it is 75W-90. It only needs to be changed per the service interval i.e. about every 2-3 years in normal use. Since you have barely used the car you don't need to change it; it does not contain volatile additives which deteriorate with age, only with use. The oil seals might leak slightly at first, but unlike high speed (crankshaft/ camshaft/ oil pump etc.) seals, the transmission bearing seals running at lower speeds with higher viscosity lube, are not so troublesome.
NOTE:
From what you described I would most definitely get those cylinder compressions checked before you do anything else, because a long layover will have resulted in sludge in the piston ring grooves which will really mess up your engine's power output, and furthermore if the engine is plum tuckered out, you will end up spending an arm and a leg to no avail, only to find that the engine ought to be reconditioned, rebuilt or swapped out.

 

How do I perform a compression test?

 

I see that it involves cranking the engine with a compression meter in each cylinder with the Distributor main wire disconnected.

When I pulled the spark plugs a few years a go one came out cross threaded. Her father said he fixed it. I imagine he usde a heli coil. Is this going to pose a problem?