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Need help

Old Aug 5, 2006 | 03:54 PM
  #1  
dancingeo's Avatar
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Default Need help

We have been trying to locate a repair manual for my daughter's 1993 Mazda 929 and no luck, We just need an answer to 1 question Here goes Mazda 3 OL DOHC 929 Timing belt peplacement is the belt adjuster on the bottom lower left (facing) the engine A chrome post protruding from a cast cylinder bolted to the face of the block its position is very stiff, if compressed to allow installation of 3rd tension wheel, what activates it's contact . Ok I would really apreciate any answer I can get and if possible a printable version to help ,at the end of my rope here I hope one of you can help Thank you for any help or advice you can give
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 04:46 PM
  #2  
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Default RE: Need help

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...15875222QQrdZ1

They sell a manual for it.

I am checking if there is an online version. I can't really even tell what your question is asking, but I think it is: How is the tensioner held to the "chrome" post?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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Default RE: Need help

Chilton makes a repair manual too. Go to a good bookstore and they'd probably be able to get it in a few days.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 04:32 AM
  #4  
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Default RE: Need help

You need to unbold the tensioner unit from the block and compress it in a press or vise very slowly. Should unbolt easily by removing the 2 12mm bolts that hold it into its place. There is a plug on the end part of the tensioner with an allen fitting. Do not remove that plug and also use a washer around that plug so as not to damage it when compressing the piston of the tensioner. When you have the tensioner unit off then place in a vice or press and slowly apply pressure to compress it. Once you have the chrome piston compressed back into the cast piece you will note that there is a hole in the cast part. You should be able to insert a stiff piece of spring wire into that hole in the cast piece, thru a hole in the piston and into the back of the cast piece. Now that the piston is compressed and held you can go ahead and reinstall it onto the engine block with the new timing belt in place. Once the belt is installed then remove the stiff wire to allow the tensioner piston to push out and apply tension to the belt.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 06:09 PM
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Default RE: Need help

Whoops too late the plug got pulled, curiosity took over so now are we completely up the creek? If not what can we do now and what kind of fluid goes back in there? You are Great thank you so much for helping, Living in a small town is horroble but thank God for people like you willing to help Thank you again Debby
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 06:05 PM
  #6  
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Default RE: Need help

Hello again Debby.
Whooops is right. Once plug is removed it is toast. Hydraulic fluid is put in under pressure from the manufacturer and there is no way to repressurize now. New tensioner is not too expensive. OE part # is JE50-12-770. Is available from www.onlinemazdaparts.com for $125.80.
Make sure to also check the idler bearings and the tensioner bearing that the hydraulic tensioner pushes against. If they sound dry or metallic when spun by hand then could be getting close to failure and you will then have to just go back in there and replace things again later. If they do seem to be dry and noisy then cheapest way to replace them would probably be a Mazda Value Line timing belt kit. The kit comes with a new OE belt and all three bearings for only $191.72 also from onlineparts. Part # for kit is JE20-12-207-MV. Individually the bearings range in price from $140.10-$165.80 and with the belt included the four parts would cost almost $600. If you do decide to go with the kit then you should also order the pivot shaft for the tensioner bearing. They tend to wear out and cause excessive and very rapid belt edge wear. Do not know why they do not include in the kit but they do not. The pivot is part #JE26-12-754 and is a piddly $7.88.
Do not know if you were able to locate a repair manual but if you need a little guidance on the belt, I could certainly fax you the related pages from the OE shop manual. Not super descriptive but does have pretty good info.
 
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