Picked up battery from Sound shop. Asked them about wiring Solar Panel. He said not to tap in wire for passenger side visor light. He said to wire directly up to battery. Welcome to the new age of electronics.
Added more insulation to front main battery under hold down (pic).
Also, when adding an amp, the wire you run from the battery to the amp must have a fuse/breaker between the main battery and the firewall. The fuse on the amp is ok on the other end. Both ends of wire must be fused.

 

RECAP: Drove back from New Years Eve--fine: Next day unloaded and re-arranged some stuff in car for 10-15 minutes without starting car. Not only were my LED interior lights on but other lights like on bottom of doors-----computer also turns on. Temp was cold went to -23 celsius. 2 days later car went 2 slow turns then click click click. Jumpstarted, voltage came up. I have 2 batteries. Main battery (Yello Optima) was removed re-charged, load tested and re-installed the next day. Second battery (Small 800 watt Kinetic) was removed warmed up then re-charged-----it came back to 100% on an intelligent charger. Wrapped insulation around both batteries.

With the draw from having lights on, computer on and constant parasitic draw of 120 milliamps (this draws all the time with car off---probably Mazda Stock security which has red car flashing on dash), along with extreme cold batteries, the car did start after a couple days.

Installing a Solar Panel above Passenger Visor that puts out 125 ma (1.8 watt solar panel). This will compensate for parasitic draw during day. Solar panels can overcharge your car, but not in my situation. This must be hooked up directly to battery.

Moral of story, if you have your car doors open for 10+ minutes in extreme cold you should re-start it after!

 

Karlt, take a breath. I've been around the block a few times. I had a VW beetle back in the days. These cars had the battery inside the cabin under the rear seat. They did not get any heat from the engine and the charging system was barely adequate. On the advise of a pro, for the wintertime I wrapped newspaper around the battery, nothing at the bottom and nothing at the top. In other words I somewhat insulated about 60% of the exterior surface of the battery and it helped! Why?
The battery, actually it is an accumulator, is based on an exothermic chemical process. Meaning it warms up as it operates. By reducing the heat loss it reaches operating temp earlier and that helps recharging what has been drained by starting the engine. If you drive mostly short distances that becomes important.
Today's batteries are better and insulation is rarely needed. However, in most cars today the battery is located under the hood and exposed to temperature extremes. That's why the manufacturers add a little insulation and/or venting where they realize the need.

And, Karl I am not taking advise here, I am dishing it out or I try to clarify in the hope that it is useful for someone who stumbles upon the thread.

 

As per Tanprotege, Karl is off the mark. Karl was a big jerk on Mazda6Club and he still is
1.8 Watt = 125 ma Solar Panel charger finally installed on passenger side visor. It is wired directly to Battery. Ran wire down pillar. Removed Glove Box and fed wire through middle to join to wire I fed thru firewall last week when I removed my battery to insulate it.
I glued solar panel to visor. Overlap is between 1.5" and 2". You must cut thru material and rough surface up on visor and solar panel. Was leary of bolting it. It is suction cupped to windshield. No worries of it flying around. I can fold it back but never will--I would have liked it 1/2" closer to driver side.
It is on continously-----it will never overcharge battery due to my constant parasitic draw of 120 ma.
The blue tint strip across top windshield actually covers 1/4 of the solar panel, however depending on angle of sun it should still get great charge. This charger works even in low light conditions (says right on box). It is good up to -40 degrees celsius, other end 80 degrees celsius.
It is a "Blue Planet" Solar Panel I bought from Canadian Tire retail $30, got it on sale for $16: Blue Planet Solar Panel, 1.8W | Canadian Tire

 

I re-read the instruction manual/brochure for the Solar Panel. Even thow it has a protective diode that does not allow reversing of electricity, they recommend that you Unplug the Solar Panel while Driving (That SUCKS). So I installed a toggle switch (see pic). It would be stupid to install a lighted switch in this situation.
I had a switch in there before, but the new switch would not push through. I found there is a second plastic panel behind (which did have some cutouts but not big enough) of which I had to remove some more material with a pair of side cutters. The top panel comes off easily---pull at bottom then top (at area around switch----not necessary to remove whole panel to other side of steering wheel). It can be bent back to see panel underneath and enough room to cut it.
So now before I start car i turn switch off, and when i shut car off, i turn switch on so Solar Panel can charge.
There is a blue light flasing on the Solar Panel. It is an indicator light telling you the solar panel is working---it was flashing as i removed it from the box-----it was not wired up. This indicator light is not telling you it is wired up or disconnected, but rather just working.

UPDATE : Briefly talked to my mechanic and he said it is just a safety precaution, it will not damage solar panel if you accidentally don't turn switch off while starting or driving car. He suggested a RELAY. I don't know how a relay would work because the relay would have to be hooked up to the ignition and when ignition is on it is suppose to disconnect the solar panel circuit which is directly hooked up to battery and vice versa when ignition turned off.
ANY THOUGHTS?

 

Hey, Noggin:

There are different types of relays. You are thinking of a relay were a current is used to turn on a devise. There are relays that do the opposite. They switch off a devise. Look at #87a here:
1954 Chevy Pickup | Understanding Relays

SPDT | The Single Pole Double Throw Relay has a fifth contact: 5. #87a -- Always goes to a Secondary Electrical Device ... usually not employed unless you have a second device that you want turned on whenever the first device (#87) is turned off.

So your first devise is the ignition and when you turn that off your second devise, the solar charger, is turned on.

 

I just phoned my mechanic again after your post (he's open til 6:30pm). I asked him will the relay turn the solar panel off. His response was YES, connect it to 87A. Awesome Tanprotege (and great link of installation of relay), I'll get this done Tuesday. Today when i went in to start my car i forgot to turn it off, when i got home i forgot to turn it on (went back outside). This solves these issues.
THANX ALOT.

 

CAR STARTED AFTER 4 DAYS.
Last time I drove the car was Thursday @ 2:00pm. I started it up @ 9:00 am Monday Morning (3 days 19 hours). It was very cold Sat night (-18 Celcius) and cold all day Sunday (-10), Sunday overnight -8 (it was -11 @ 11:00 pm).
I also noticed I was parked the wrong way (for max sun). I should have received morning sun, but it was blocked by neighbour's house (due to short sun days). I am going to have to turn car around to get excellent afternoon sun.
Even with poor sun on solar panel, car still started. Insulation must be helping.

 

Update: March 7, 2012. Batteries still Good. Cranks strong. I do many short trips.

 

UPDATE:
Had to replace suction cups on Solar Panel as the ones that came with kit were small and couldn't handle the tension in the heat. Bought 2 larger ones from Fish Store with 2 strands, pushed them thru holes and slid a small piece of steel to keep in it place with some glue. Been on for months already, much better. Battery still great. I guess black silicone would have been a better choice!