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-   -   2003 Mazda 6 with 2.3L (https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda6-20/2003-mazda-6-2-3l-30821/)

Gmanpumps 01-07-2013 03:17 PM

2003 Mazda 6 with 2.3L
 
Here is the scoop- Car idles rough at times, jerky at low speeds on occassion and generally acts like there is a vacuum leak. Took it to Mazda and they say it is the purge valve. Did not have it in stock. Did my homework and hunted down the purge valve and manually applied 12v to the solenoid and it opened and closed as it should. I replaced several vacuum hoses as they were cracking but still no better. Where do I go from here? BTW, I have already replaced the gas cap, just to eliminate that possible issue. Any ideas are appreciated, and yes I can go to AZ and get the DTC code again but thought I would present here first. THX

Gmanpumps 01-08-2013 12:40 PM

Update
 
Ran by AutoZone and had the codes read. They are as follows- P0456-EVAP system leak detected; P2187 Fuel system too lean at idle-right bank. Things that have been done- replaced fuel cap, spark plugs and plug wires. And as previously stated, checked the purge valve and it performed properly. There are lots of hoses to check but any other suggestions are appreciated.

tanprotege 01-08-2013 01:20 PM

Try this, but don't make it a habit!


Gmanpumps 01-08-2013 09:11 PM

Thanks for the idea tanprotege. It did help me confirm that a few questionable vac lines are still holding vacuum. My concern after all this is that the PCV valve/line may be leaking or not working properly. As I cannot get to either without removing the intake manifold, I sprayed some carb cleaner between the openings in the intake and behold I got a slight change in RPM's at one point. I am assuming there may be a vac leak there. Question- is there a way to check the pcv valve aside from removing all thats required to visually inspect the pcv valve?? Thx

UseYourNoggin 01-08-2013 10:15 PM


Originally Posted by Gmanpumps (Post 134586)
Question- is there a way to check the pcv valve aside from removing all thats required to visually inspect the pcv valve?? Thx

You have a 2003. If you haven't changed it, chances are it has never been changed. It is not on the Mazda service schedule to check it or change it.:mad: Don't bother checking it, just replace it. It is a pain on the 4 cylinders but a necessity.

Gmanpumps 01-13-2013 08:52 PM

Vacuum update
 
Just came in from the PCV valve replacement on my 03 Mazda 6 with the 2.3L engine. What a pain but indeed the PCV line was split!! Replaced it and the valve and will hope for the best. No CEL yet but only driven it a few miles. Seems to be running smoother. Learned a lot, probably could cut the time spent in half. If there is someone going thru this now, feel free to respond to this thread and I will do my best to pass on the any help. BTW thanks for the push Noggin!!

tanprotege 01-13-2013 10:41 PM

Nice going, Gmanpumps!

I know what you mean here: "Learned a lot, probably could cut the time spent in half."


UseYourNoggin 01-14-2013 08:22 AM


Originally Posted by Gmanpumps (Post 134758)
J What a pain but indeed the PCV line was split!! Replaced it and the valve and will hope for the best. No CEL yet but only driven it a few miles. Seems to be running smoother. Learned a lot, probably could cut the time spent in half. BTW thanks for the push Noggin!!

It's better to take your time, clean things properly and put it back together. It's also a good lesson by just taking the time to look around. It's a great learning lesson. Glad you did it. I change my PCV valve every 3 years. You were definitely overdue. :)
Things must have been carboned up, gummed up. Put in some fuel system cleaner.

hybrid35 11-15-2014 12:01 AM

I'm about to replace it tomorrow. Any tools that I should be looking out for? Or any specific parts I should be buying for the PCV and the line?


I only have the basic wrench at the moment but I'm probably going to be buying more in the morning.

grim_reaper 11-15-2014 01:47 AM

For a 2.3 Mazda 6 you will need 1/4" socket set, Flexi magnet.

It would pay to replace the o-rings/manifold seals too.

Its a pain in the arse job. When you go to refit the manifold, pack a bit of paper or tape around the bolts so they are a tight fit in the socket when you go to refit them. You will understand why later.


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