Hi Guys, I have that single key issue. I saw on the net that if you can provide the dealer with the VIN and the immobilizer model/mfr and serial number of that unit that they will give you the Key code to activate your new cut key/s. Now I'm in Canada so everything is different here. So if anyone has had this issue and done this it would be a great help. So I'll need the location of the immobilizer and verification that they will do this.

again it is a 2014 Mazda 5

Thanks

old_dog

 

Why not just call the closest dealership to you in Canada, explain the situation, then find out your options. Sounds a lot easier than looking around the 'net.

 

Oh you'll like this one, The Mazda dealership took it back on trade, sold it to a local used car lot with a shady owner...he never sells a car with two keys, and that's a fact. Went to the Mazda dealer and they told me...."we don't know how many keys were returned when the car was traded in"...I'm thinking in this day and age of monitoring and controlling everything you do, you don't know how many keys were returned!!!! I was hoping they'd be able to look into their computer records and say "Oh there were two keys at that stage I'd go to the shady guy with a piece of paper from the dear and present it to him and try to get the other key. I know the shady guy generally has the second key because the brother in-law lost a key for a Nissan he bought from him ( he bought it over a few months, the shady guy just gave him the one key), then The brother in-law loses that single key and phones the shady guy what happened and if he BY CHANCE had another key....low and behold he shows up with the second key. The brother in-law buys another vehicle same thing 1 key......The guy up the road....1 key....So you see where I'm going with this.

These guys up here are clowns. In the USA you guys got rights when it comes to this stuff. Up here your on your own....Example Seat belt restraint system for Honda's. In the USA they tell you to take it to the deal have it checked out. If in fact it's defective they pay for the check, the part and the labor to install it. Up here you have to fight to get the vehicle checked. Then when they say it is the Seat belt restrain system you have to fight to get the part at which stage your still on the hook for the diagnostic check and the labor to install IF THEY WILL GIVE YOU THE PART!!!.

Canada is not a pretty picture for car owner rights I'm afraid...thanks for your time

old_dog

 

Hmm okay... That's some bull****. I definitely can get behind your suspicion of not wanting some shady guy to have extra keys to your car. If you haven't asked the shady guy for a key yet, why not play it off like you lost your one key and ask him for a new one?

I wouldn't be surprised that the dealership doesn't have a record of the keys, or at the very least they don't want to spend time looking it up. Maybe just bite the bullet and pay for them to make a new key based on the vin.

If you are seriously concerned, you could buy a new tumbler (https://www.realmazdaparts.com/v-201...-ignition-lock .... https://www.realmazdaparts.com/oem-p...w0LWdhcw%3D%3D) and/or keyless entry and immobilizer components (https://www.realmazdaparts.com/v-201...try-components). I really don't know what all would need to be done to make a new tumbler work with the immobilizer system. Let me look for a link to the service manual that I have for our car. It was relatively cheap and has information on the immobilizer system. Okay found it. Not sure why our 2014 model year has its own separate book, but that is the one I got. (https://craigsmanuals.net/product-ca.../mazda/mazda5/ ..... https://craigsmanuals.net/product/20...vice-manual-2/)

 

Me and him don't get along. I called him out on his clearing the EVAP codes. Sold the car to the miss's she filled it up with gas. I took the car to the City (about 45 miles away) when I was in there I noticed the car was making a repetitive noise in the front end (rotors I figured). His mechanic didn't lube the older pads up with silicone so that became an issue. Then the dash light came on (engine). Got it home and checked the codes Minor and Major Evap codes. Told the better half to call him that the car didn't have a tank full of gas through it and it was already giving her issues. She tried to get her money back but NO....But he said he'd get it fixed but at this stage he had already admitted to clearing the two codes. I told her to take it to a mechanic they both know and he says the Ball joint on the right front needs replacing and when that is done it will need a front end alignment. He says he'll fix it. Comes picked the car up and me and him get into it..( I got no time for crap). Get the car back and when the mechanic they both know she asks the mechanic to check the rotor on the right front...BONUS...HIS GUY HAD BUSTED ONE OF THE CALIPER BOLTS. When he was doing that be bent the solid brake line into the caliper.....at this stage she got the front end alignment done and made an appointment to get the rotors pad and calipers all done as well as the bent brake line. The engine light came back on and I ordered the EVAP module for the back end and I changed it out...Nope their all pieces of work up here it's surprising no one has gone postal on them. If he was in boot camp he'd be getting blank parties every night.

On the key thing I can get the key on Ebay, I can get it cut for free at the local Home Hardware (I'll give them something like $10.00 for the coffee fund it's well worth it) , Then all I need is the 8 digit code to get the second key coded and I'll make a third.


Thanks for the assist I'll probably download the manual sometime next week...sssoooo mmuucchhh to do.lol!!!!

 

Man, that is a real PITA... Hopefully word of mouth gets around that the guy is a full of ****. Hopefully your mechanic will take good care of you all. If you plan to do any work on that Mazda5 and have questions, let me know. I maintain our Mazda5 and it's been a great car to us. Good luck!

 

Hi, I downloaded the repair manual all 140 G's...lol...took some time to do it. I checked the manual out quickly and there doesn't seem to be anything in it to get the immobilizer number. I'm just wondering if I try to take off the steering column pieces should it be there...I do know that the key has to be in the general area and for some it has to be in a particular spot in order to start the car. You know for a car that has been around a long time there doesn't seem to be much information on this model.

 

Eh, looks like the .zip is 140Mb (megabytes). G's or Gb's (gigabytes) would be more like 140,000Mbs, which would take a significant amount of time haha.

Yeah I dont know why they need to know the manufacturer/number, MAZDA or FOMOCO should be the manufacturer. As far as how to find the number, I dont know but THEY should know how to find it. But, it doesn't surprise me that the dealership is not a fountain of knowledge. Most people I speak to at a dealership seem fairly incompetent.

As far as I know, when you buy a key it comes blank and needs to be programed. Look at page 3775 IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM-RELATED PARTS PROGRAMMING, start reading and you will get to a table on 3776. It has two options for "Additional key programming". One is for when you have two or more keys, the other is for only having one key. Because you have only one key, you should be taken to page 3778 Additional Key Programming Procedure (Using the M-MDS (IDS)). It appears that it requires a special tool if you plan to do this yourself (M-MDS IDS https://www.mazdaserviceinfo.com/ids-software). However, I doubt you are interested in that route (VERY PRICEY for self-programming one key), so you will have to take it to the dealership or someplace with this M-MDS IDS software.

If I can find some time, I will call some Mazda dealerships in my area and ask them about how to get additional keys. I only have one key myself, so I am pretty interested in this. We'll see what happens, I have a lot going on during regular business hours hahaha

 

Regardless on where in the world you are.

If you present the car, along with proof of ownership, the dealership can cut and code another key. Its not difficult.

Also, when programming a new key, all old keys not present are deleted from the PCM.

And if you are seriously worried about someone having a physical key, you can buy blank keys cheap as chips on ebay, get your door barrel & ignition barrel recoded buy a locksmith and use the blade from the ebay blank cut to match the new barrel combination.

 

It might not be difficult but when you factor in that I have 1 key that's coming apart due to abuse by the previous owner and that I never want to see myself in this situation again I will need three keys...1 to cover the broken taped up key.....1 for the other key chain (better half and myself), 1 for a back up because you 2 keys to code another key with a Mazda...that comes to 3 keys..at $300.00 a pop each plus 15% tax....for a total of $ 1, 035.00.....out the door.....So now do you see the dilemma. They make a fortune off the keys and they (the dealership) have no desire to say to an inquiring customer if a 2nd key came with the car when it was traded in and did both keys go to the company that bought the car and sold it to the misses.

So to that I am trying to get this done myself.

old_dog