Mazda3 Offered in both a sedan and wagon, this sporty model offers a great car for the family, as well a fun track car.

TSB for Mazdas

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:51 PM
virgin1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
Posts: 8,666
Default


I can guarantee you all that this is at best a temporary fix for the problem which is actually caused by the plastic screws used that will not stay tight.
I have had this done twice while my car was still under warranty and it is back again.
This is Mazdas answer to save them money to the question, "Will this work long enough for the customer to be out of warranty when it happens again?"

icspots once came up with the solution (not covered by Mazdas warranty of course) to replace all current hardware with the late '06 hardware. But that requires that you BUY the hardware from a dealer and DIY
.

Originally Posted by Tracker
09-015/05 2004-2006 MAZDA3 - SNAP OR CLUNK NOISE FROM FRONT POWER WINDOWS

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINs
2004-) 2006 Mazda3 with VINs lower than JM1BK****61401679 (produced before July 6, 2005) equipped with Power Windows

DESCRIPTION

Some customers may complain of a loud snap or clunk noise when operating the front power windows. The noise is most likely to occur when the window is lowered halfway and is then raised. The noise will not occur more than once each time this operation is attempted on a window.

This noise is due to insufficient torque on the screws that hold the window carrier plate to the window regulator.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify concern on the applicable power window.

2. Lower the affected window to where the top of the glass is 60 mm (2.4 in) above the top of the interior door trim.

3. Record customer's pre-set radio stations.

4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

5. Remove the inner garnish according to Workshop Manual (section 09-17 INNER GARNISH REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).

6. Remove the front door trim according to Workshop Manual (section 09-17 FRONT DOOR TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).

7. Remove the two hole covers found in the center area of the front door unit just below the door wire harness.

CAUTION: The screws thread into plastic inserts, do not over torque them.

8. Tighten the window regulator / carrier plate screws to a torque of 4.0 Nm (35 in-lbs).

9. Reassemble the interior door trim and garnish in reverse order.

10. Reset customer's pre-set radio stations.

11. Verify repair.
 
  #32  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:51 PM
Tracker's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,183
Default

Subject:
A/C STOPS COOLING/REDUCED AIRFLOW DURING A LONG DRIVE IN HUMID TEMPERATURES

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2006 - 2008 Mazda3 vehicles (including Mazdaspeed3)

DESCRIPTION

Some customers may report that with the A/C on during an extended drive, the vent air volume decreases and/or the vents start to blow warm air. This could be result of the evaporator freezing, and it is most likely to occur while driving for an extended time at steady highway speeds with the A/C on MAX in high humidity conditions. When the freeze-up occurs, the following symptoms may be present:

^ During freeze-up, the low pressure side pipe will have frost on it, giving the appearance it is frozen.

^ Allowing the evaporator to unfreeze will temporarily address the concern.
NOTE: There are other conditions that can create similar symptoms, which include:

^ A/C cutoff control operation, where the PCM stops energizing the A/C relay when certain conditions are met. This can include the following situations:

- During acceleration (throttle valve opening angle 50% or more). The duration is 5 seconds.

- When ECT (engine coolant temperature) is 113°C (235°F). The system repeatedly turns on and off every 20 seconds until the ECT is less than approximately 110°C (230°F).

- When ECT is 117°C (242°F) or more. The system will remain off until the ECT decreases to less than 114°C (237°F). These conditions signify the engine is running hot and could be on the verge of overheating.


^ Electrical or mechanical concerns that could restrict vent air flow, causing irregular operation of the blower motor, and/or engagement of the A/C compressor.


The cause of the evaporator freeze-up is product variation of the evaporator temperature sensor and uneven airflow across the evaporator. To correct the sensor, a short harness with a built-in resistor will need to be installed in series with evaporator temperature sensor circuit. This cord will correct it by reducing the measured value 1°C (1.8°F). To correct the airflow, a cabin filter with a built-in diffuser will need to be installed in place of the current filter.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify customer concern.

2. Record the customer's radio station presets.

3. Disconnect the negative battery for at least one minute.

4. Remove the side wall on the passenger side foot well.

5. Remove the Passenger Juction Box. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 09-40 PASSENGER JUNCTION BOX (PJB) REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.

NOTE: PJB module configuration does not need to be performed since the same module will be used.

6. Remove the metal bracket.

7. Disconnect the connector from the evaporator temperature sensor connector.

8. Disconnect the power MOSFET (if equipped with automatic climate control).

9. Remove the evaporator access cover from the A/C unit.

10. Remove the upper and lower air filters from the A/C unit.

11. Install the air filter with diffuser plate.

12. Install the air filter.

NOTE: Make sure the arrows marked on the air filter are facing towards the rear of the vehicle.

13. Install the evaporator access cover to the A/C unit.

14. Install the short harness with resistor to the connector, then connect the evaporator temperature sensor connector to it.

15. Reassemble in the reverse order of removal.

16. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

17. Verify repair.

18. Enter the customer's radio presets and set the clock.
 
  #33  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:52 PM
Tracker's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,183
Default

Subject:
AMBIENT TEMPERATURE DISPLAY

BULLETIN NOTE This bulletin supersedes the previous bulletin 09-018/05 issued 09/23/05. The APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS has been revised.

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2006-2009 Mazda3 equipped with Ambient Temperature Display

DESCRIPTION

In some cases, a vehicle may have the ambient temperature display switched from "Fahrenheit (°F)" to "Centigrade (°C)" or vice versa after removing/installing the battery or room fuse.

On vehicles equipped with Automatic Air Conditioning, the ambient temperature and temperature set for the air conditioner share the same location on the display. Therefore, if the ambient temperature is displayed in Fahrenheit, then the temperature set for the air conditioner is also displayed in Fahrenheit.

NOTE: If this concern occurs, DO NOT REPLACE ANY COMPONENTS! Customers having this concern should have their temperature display changed to the alternate units by performing the procedure below.

NOTE: The procedure below is also in the 2007 - 2009 Mazda3 Owner's Manuals under Ambient Temperature Display.

Technicians are also encouraged, after removing/installing the battery or room fuse, to identify if the temperature display has changed units, and to perform the following procedure when necessary.

PROCEDURE

1. Turn the ignition switch to "ON".

2. Allow the ambient temperature to be displayed. (Make sure that "AMB" is displayed next to the Temperature on the display.)

3. Make sure that the audio system is on. (If it is not, turn it on.)

4. While pressing and holding the "Power/Volume" dial, press and hold the "MEDIA" button on the audio system for 5 seconds or more.

5. Release your fingers off the MEDIA button followed by the Power/Volume dial, at which point the display is switched.

6. Turn the ignition switch "OFF".

7. Turn the ignition switch "ON", and verify the display is correct.
 
  #34  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:52 PM
Tracker's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,183
Default

Subject:
FRONT WIPERS DO NOT WIPE WELL

BULLETIN NOTE This bulletin supersedes the previous bulletins 09-029/08 issued 9/16/2008, 09-023/05 issued 12/16/2005, and 09-030/04 issued 07/28/2004. The WARRANTY INFORMATION has been revised.

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004-2006 Mazda3 with VINs less than JM1 BK**** 61423974
(Built Prior to August 29, 2005)

DESCRIPTION

Some customers may complain that the front wipers do not effectively clean the windshield in cold ambient temperatures. New wiper blades have been introduced to correct this concern.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify concern.

2. Replace the front wiper blades with new parts.

3. Verify repair.
 
  #35  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:53 PM
Tracker's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,183
Default

Subject:
ENGINE COOLANT LEAKAGE FROM WATER OUTLET

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2006 - 2008 Mazda3 vehicles (except Mazdaspeed3) with VINs lower than JM1BK3*****187397 (produced before July 1, 2008)

2008 Mazda5 vehicles with VINs lower than JM1CR******327438 (produced before July 1, 2008)

DESCRIPTION

On some vehicles, the engine coolant may leak from the water outlet. This is caused by the gasket making contact with the corner of the water outlet groove. The shape of the water outlet gasket groove and gasket has now been changed.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify customer concern.

NOTE: Let the engine cool down before proceding with the repair.

2. Remove the battery and battery tray with PCM. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-17.

3. Remove the air cleaner case and cover, and move any hoses or wiring harnesses with brackets to the side. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-13.

4. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-12.

5. Remove the hoses attached to the water outlet and move any other hoses or wiring harnesses to the side to remove the four water outlet bolts.

6. Remove the water outlet and replace the gasket with a modified one.

NOTE: ^ Do not allow mineral oil (engine oil, ATF, or fuel) to get on the gasket.

^ Degrease and clean the cylinder head surface and water outlet.


7. Install the water outlet with the four bolts.

Tightening torque: 8.0-11.5 Nm {82-117 kgf cm, 71-101 in lbf}

8. Attach the hoses to the water outlet and place the other hoses and wiring harnesses back into place.

9. Install the air cleaner case and cover, and place the hoses and wiring harnesses with brackets back into place. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-13.

10. Refill the engine coolant.

11. Install the battery tray with PCM and the battery. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-17.

12. Verify repair.
 
  #36  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:54 PM
Tracker's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,183
Default

Subject:
ENGINE WILL NOT START IN P-RANGE INTERMITTENTLY

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004-2008 Mazda3 vehicles with VINs lower than JM1BK**** ** 848579 (produced before November 1, 2007)

DESCRIPTION

On some vehicles, the shift position lamp in the instrument cluster does not come on in the "P" position, and the engine does not start. However, the engine can be started in the "N" position. This is due to rust on the connecting point of the shift cable and lock cable lever causing the select lever not to move to the location where it is recognized as "P" range. There is no issue about the transmission reaching Park. This is only an issue about the confirming "P" indicator in the instrument cluster. A slit on the mud guard has been removed to prevent salt water from getting to the location where rust would occur.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify customer concern.

2. First verify that rust appears on the connecting point of the shift cable (A) and lock cable lever (B), then replace the lock cable lever with modified one by removing the nut (C) and washer (D). Also, replace the nut and washer.

NOTE: ^ When removing or installing the lock nut, always be sure to hold the lock cable lever with an adjustable wrench. Failure to use an adjustable wrench may cause TR switch breakage.

^ If corrosion is present, apply penetrating oil to the shaft and nut threads before loosening.

^ When loosening, if there is binding because of corrosion on the threads, work the nut back and forth until it comes off.


Tightening Torque: 31.4 Nm (3.2 - 4.7 kgf-m, 23.2 - 33.9 ft. lbf.)

3. Verify repair.
 
  #37  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:54 PM
Tracker's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,183
Default

Subject:
UNSTABLE IDLING/ENGINE STALLS JUST AFTER STOPPING

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2003-2009 Mazda6 with 2.3L/2.5L (including Mazdaspeed6)
2004-2009 Mazda3 (including Mazdaspeed3)
2006-2009 Mazda5
2006-2009 Mazda MX-5
2007-2009 Mazda CX-7

DESCRIPTION

Some vehicles may exhibit a concern of unstable idling or, in some rare cases, stalling, just after the vehicle stops with no DTCs detected. The problem is due to the accumulation of carbon deposits inside the throttle body causing air flow to decrease.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure and the Workshop Manual.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify customer concern.

2. Remove the throttle body.

a. Write down the customer's radio station presets.

b. Disconnect the battery terminals.

c. Remove the air hose from the throttle body.

d. Disconnect the throttle body connector.

e. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold with the water hose connected.

3. Clean the throttle body.

a. Clean the inside throttle body on the air hose side using a clean and soft shop cloth sprayed with engine cleaner (part number 000-77-A86) along the cross hatch areas, and especially around the circled areas as shown.

CAUTION:
DO NOT spray the cleaner directly inside the throttle body and DO NOT wipe around the throttle valve shaft shown with an X.

b. Turn the throttle body to clean it at the intake manifold side.

c. Clean the throttle with the throttle valve opened using the same shop cloth and cleaner.

WARNING:
Be careful not to pinch your fingers in the throttle valve when it is opened because the valve will close automatically from spring tension.

CAUTION:
DO NOT spray the cleaner directly inside the throttle body and DO NOT wipe around the throttle valve shaft shown with an X.

d. Make sure there is no foreign material inside the throttle body.

4. Re-install the throttle body using a new gasket.

5. Connect the battery cables.

6. Perform the throttle valve position learning and idling engine rpm inspection.

a. Connect the M-MDS.

b. Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine for one minute, then turn it to OFF.

c. After one minute has passed, start the engine.

d. Warm up the engine at idling until the cooling fan starts operating or until the coolant temperature reaches 194°F (90°C) or higher.

e. Turn off any electrical load, including the A/C, with the shifter in Neutral or Park position.

f. Let the engine run for five minutes.

g. Measure the engine rpm at idle using the M-MDS to confirm it is within specification according to the Workshop Manual.

7. Verify repair.

8. Enter the customer's radio station presets.

9. Perform "Power Window Initialization Procedure" on vehicles with AUTO UP/AUTO DOWN windows.

10. Inform customers with vehicles with memory seats that the memory positions will need to be set again to their desired positions because the battery was disconnected.
 
  #38  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:56 PM
Tracker's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,183
Default

Subject:
CHATTERING NOISE FROM COWL GRILL WHEN PASSING OVER A BUMP OR DRIVING ON A ROUGH ROAD

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004-2009 Mazda3 (including Mazdaspeed3) vehicles with VINs lower than JM1BK**** ** 209750 (produced before August 7, 2008)

Some vehicles may experience a chattering noise being heard form the cowl grill when passing over a bump or driving on a rough road. The cause of this is a stick-slip occuring between the cowl grill and the windshield.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify customer concern.

2. Remove the cowl panel. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 09-10 COWL PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.

3. Install or replace the pads on the hooks on the back of the cowl grill (in 8 locations) with the service pads, folding in and attaching to the hook any excess material as shown.

4. Install the cowl panel. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 09-10 COWL PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.

5. Verify repair.
 
  #39  
Old 08-20-2009, 07:17 PM
virgin1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
Posts: 8,666
Default


Here's another good one folks. The factory fix is to add a spot weld on each side of the vehicle. The dealer/customer fix is to pry open the offending panels/supports and add grease so it doesn't squeak... for a while.
Can you say, "Band-Aid?" Sure! Thought ya' could.

Good job, Mazda.


Originally Posted by Tracker
2004-2006 MAZDA3 - 4-DOOR SEDAN - SQUEAKING NOISE FROM REAR OF VEHICLE WHILE DRIVING

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004-2006 Mazda3 4-door Sedan vehicles
with VINs lower than JM1BK**** ** 498597 (produced before March 2, 2006)

DESCRIPTION

Some 4-door Sedan vehicles may exhibit a squeaking noise from around the rear package tray while driving. Due to the torsional movement of vehicle body while driving, the front package member makes contact with the package junction panel, resulting in a squeaking noise.

As a mass-production change, a spot weld has been added to the area of concern. Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify customer concern.

2. Open the trunk.

3. Using a plastic Windshield Setting Tool or equivalent, gently pry open the area where the front package member makes contact with the package junction panel to provide clearance. Repeat for both sides of the vehicle.

NOTE: ^ Plastic Windshield Setting Tool (Part Number IS742 - available from Equalizer at 800-334-1334) or similar available through a local supplier.

^ If you substitute a flat screwdriver, wrap the end of the screwdriver with tape so it will not damage the vehicle.


4. Apply spray grease to the area of concern pried open in the previous step.
 
  #40  
Old 08-20-2009, 07:21 PM
virgin1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
Posts: 8,666
Default


Day-um Travis!! You must have a bee in your as... uh, bonnet.
you're goin' to town there, Boss!!

And BTW, my derogatory comments have absolutely nothing to do with you posting this information, or are meant as a personal attack on you at all.
Just trying to point out how Corporations try to get themselves out of tight spots and that we should all be on the look-out for them.

 


Quick Reply: TSB for Mazdas



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:49 AM.