ok everyone before anyone bites my head off for posting this thread im here for a friend. a female friend of mine came to me today asking if i could change her oil for her. she said she is tired of paying $50 for the oil changes at the local quick stops, and i told her i could do it for much cheaper. now the questions i have about the car after doing a little research on it are as follows.
1. im used to the canister oil fiters on all of my previous cars and current one. research has turned up a canister and paper filter for the car. but pictures show me a housing for a paper on.
2. ive been reading up on it and (i have change oil before and know how but am not used to the paper type oilfilter) the torque specs is it that important on all of me canister filters i hand tighten then give about a quater turn and on the drain plug get it snug and go a little farther and have done so with no leaks. is the torque specs that imprtant?
3. can i get the special 76mm 14 flute tool at any parts store (autozone pepboys napa) local dealers parts department are closed.
4. i want to attempt it cuz then next vehicle im getting (used 07-09 5.7 tundra has they same set up and want the know how for the future) so any tips/advice for this job
5. final question i know from research on the tundra the paper filter has made it more of a hassle but is it that much more of a hassle

thanks for your help

 

I'm a bit confused by some of your questions, so I'll put it to you in terms I can understand and hope you will too. How about that?

1) The 2.0L engine found on the base model 3i uses a spin-on (disposable) filter. The 2.3L on S models use a cartridge, replaceable paper filter type w/o-rings for the housing... unless it has been converted by a previous owner. I've done this to my own '04 S model, and would recommend it to your friend.

2) I just tightened the housing until it was tight, the o-ring was sealing, but just tight enough. It's a plastic housing and it can be cracked if handled too roughly. I was cautious w/it.

3) I hated the cartridge filter but put up with it for several yrs before converting.

4) The last time I looked, the filter tool was not available at regular parts stores. That was several years ago, so you may want to ask them.
I used to use a soft, strap-wrench on the housing, being careful not to put too much pressure at any one point on it. Slowly and deliberately is my motto.
Now using the spin-on, I only tighten that enough to be sure of a good seal as well (1/2 - 2/3rds of a turn after contact which is plenty,) so I can usually just unscrew it by hand when its time.

 

1. it is a 2.3 sedan and converting would be pointless cuz she is about to get rid of the car due to tranny trouble
2. it sounds like your basically hand tightening everything (except the drain pan nut). i have been reading and peeple are talking about 7.8 ft lbs here and 22.3 ft lbs there and dont feel like finding my torque wrench just for this so that helps
3. even having not attempted the oil change yet, im not to crazy about the paper filter
4. i actually called today and surprisingly autozone has it for $6 so im good there. i was planning on being careful one cuz its not my car and 2 cuz like you said its plastic (so dumb its tinkered with alot, near heat and very important) u think the auto people (not just mazda the tundra has a plastic one too) would make it out of aluminum or something more durable, but i guess there could be a seizing issue with alluminum.

but thanks for your help i actually found a website that explanes everything a lote better ill post it for future people
How To Change the Oil in a Mazda 3 (2.3 and 2.0 Models) | Mazda3Revolution.com