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Good quality brake pads?
I got all four brake pads changed a little over 5,000 miles ago. They are still screaching a very good amount. I've had my rear pads changed once before and the screach lasted about a month. It has now been almost 4 months. I was just at the mechanic getting my NYS inspection along with an oil change. This was the Mechanic that put the pads on. I told him about the issue and asked how much longer until the screach goes away? He told me it probably wont go away, and that the pads used were the problem. I asked for the brand he used, and he told me Wagner. I asked if he would replace them for free, and he told me that he would give me the difference for the cost of the pads and charge half the labor cost. I asked if i could buy the pads and just have him install it. He said that was ok. He would refund the money for the pads that he used, so i would only pay him for labor.
My question is this; What brake pads should i get? If it's a high quality pad, I'm willing to cough up the extra dough. I have a 2005 2.3 sedan. I was also considering changing the pads myself. I use to have a link to a site on mazda3forum that had a big list of DIY procedures. I no longer have that link and can't find it. If anyone knows what i'm talking about could you please give me the link. Thanks for any input. |
I would suggest (from low to high, as it were): Satisfied; EBC; Hawk. For a better, but of a more direct replacement of the factory pads, go for Satisfieds. I have the EBC Green Stuffs and love them. The Red Stuffs will squeal as the ceramic content is higher. Forget the yellows. They are not for you. Many seem to like the Hawk HPS (High Performance Street) pads also. They are a little pricier and may, or may not be as good as the EBCs. My 0.2, Lev. |
Richard's right on the money, and you should definitely do your own pads - the caliper should just have a couple clips holding them in, right? 10 minute job.
Except that $0.2 is twenty cents, not two, Rich. ;) |
I've used Hawk HPS pads in my last 2 cars and I absolutely love them. Great bite and performance and no squeal
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Thanks a lot guys. This has been a great help.
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Originally Posted by VB
(Post 96051)
Richard's right on the money, and you should definitely do your own pads - the caliper should just have a couple clips holding them in, right? 10 minute job.
Except that $0.2 is twenty cents, not two, Rich. ;) Besides, everyone here knows that my 0.02 is actually worth 0.20. (I'm so full of it, even my eyes are brown.... w/a little green.) :D :D :D What Vince said is also right... especially the part about me ALWAYS being right.... except the rears, which require that caliper piston screw in tool... PITA!! I wish I could find out what that (screw in pistons) is all about, but nobody seems to know. (Am I having a good time here, or what?) |
Richard to me you your $.02 is worth $2. lol. Ok enough earning brownie points. I am pretty sure i am going to do the change myself. The tool required for the rear brakes; where do i find it, and what is the approximate cost?
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If you have a tool supply place or an AutoZone up there, you can rent the tool set. It will look similar to this picture: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg You chose the correct size and the tool alternately squeezes and turns the piston in. W/O it, you could be there for weeks and not get anywhere, though I have known a few that made due with channel locks and needle nosed pliers. Really, AutoZone takes a deposit and refunds it when you return the tool in good condition. Oh, and don't forget to use a little Disc Brake Quiet on there too.... http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/rodi_2066_335550371 |
Thank you so much. I have an Adcanced Auto parts not even two miles from me. I will ask them about the kit.
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No prob, Lev. Best of luck to you, and let us know how it all turns out. |
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