2005 Mazda 3 Lurching and stalling
Hello all,
I hope someone may be able to help with this problem. My daughter bought a used 2005 Mazda 3 from a Hyundai dealership. What has been happening is that sometimes when she stops at a light, even though she is on the brake only, the car will rev and lurch forward a couple of times and then stall out and she also was unable to start it a couple of times. The check engine light does not come on. It has gone back to the dealership multiple times and has been there for weeks at a time, but for some reason they can't seems to find whats wrong or recreate the problem. Yet when my wife picked it up the other day from the dealship, it did it when she was leaving there and then it did it twice the next day. I'm not really sure how hard the dealship is working to resolve this issue but I'm hoping maybe I can get some clues here while I work on finally getting the dealership to send the car to a Mazda dealer. We also recently found out that the previous owner had takken the car to Aamaco back in August for this same problem and they were also unable to recreate the problem. I'm wondering if this can be a computer issue? |
Mileage? Automatic or Standard?
Sounds like auto tranny problems. The automatic tranny fluid should be changed every 30,000 - miles. Please use synthetic. See: Flush it or Forget it | MotorWeek and Transmission Talk | MotorWeek . |
I'm sorry, I forgot to post that info.
its an automatic with 66,000 miles. would transmission problems explain the engine revving? |
Originally Posted by UseYourNoggin
(Post 124398)
Mileage? Automatic or Standard?
Sounds like auto tranny problems. The automatic tranny fluid should be changed every 30,000 - miles. Please use synthetic. See: Flush it or Forget it |*MotorWeek and Transmission Talk |*MotorWeek .
|
Originally Posted by shipo
(Post 124401)
A few comments:
Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.! Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has a life of about 100,000 miles at 175oF. At high temperatures, it oxidizes, turns from red to brown and exhibits a burnt smell. In addition to reducing the oil’s lubricating quality. ATF manufacturers suggest that for every 20oF. increase in operating temperature above 175oF., the life of the fluid is cut in half. Hence at 195oF., oil life will be about 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up. Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life. An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range. There are a few different fluids that are better than Toyota type iV (mine is 6 speed). You must make sure on the compatability---usually says on website or phone your local tranny shop. I have changed mine and love the new fluid---even got extended warranty with it (at no extra charge---$2,000 warranty as long as i own car, next fluid flush @ 100,000 km). For a Fluid supplier to give me a free warranty such as this, they gotta have good stuff. As far as standard trannys NEO is an awesome fluid----better than OEM. MY FLUID: “Manufacturers‚ such as Volkswagen‚ use very good quality oil. They don’t want inferior products for the oil, steering and transmission fluids. But in all cases, our products are equal or superior,” . In tests to find out how much fluid evaporates under use, we found that VW’s fluid has a four percent evaporation rate and most other cars had an eight to 10 percent rate. “Ours is less than one percent.” Here is a paragraph copied and pasted from Flush it or Forget it |*MotorWeek : The torque converter acts like a centrifuge. And any dirt particles that are in the fluid get flung out until they collect around this outside area of the torque converter. Now unless you flush, there's no way to ever clean that away. And if it isn't cleaned away, eventually it will build up to a point where it begins to flake off, those flakes can travel through the transmission, block fluid passages, cause slippage, slippage causes heat, heat kills transmissions. It's just that simple. Cleanliness is the key. See we never want to have our fluid looking like this if we can avoid it. What we want our fluid to look like always is brand new, and that means we have to flush it. We should flush it every twenty-four to thirty thousand miles. Again, MAZDA says never change ATF????? Really? I've never heard of anything so ridiculous. My tranny lasted 22,000 km. |
Originally Posted by mgb
(Post 124399)
I'm sorry, I forgot to post that info.
its an automatic with 66,000 miles. would transmission problems explain the engine revving? My first tranny lerched a couple times, good thing i had my foot firmly on the brake. Eventually the tranny banged extremely hard on a downshift among other things and was changed under warranty. |
Originally Posted by UseYourNoggin
(Post 124416)
That's one of Mazdas biggest flaw---never change ATF??????????.
|
Originally Posted by shipo
(Post 124432)
Once again you've pulled recommendations out of somewhere best left unmentioned. What are you, some 12 year old kid who's done just enough reading to think he suddenly knows better than the engineers? Why don't you do like your user id says and UseYourNoggin instead of spewing all of this crap around.
Your the one spewing crap, believing Mazdas are perfect and require no maintenance. |
Originally Posted by UseYourNoggin
(Post 124441)
Again did you not read the links-----this is not from somewhere i dreamed up. You are the 12 year old. You must work for Mazda. Do some re-searching for a change. Are you also familiar with the TSB on Mazda 6 6 speed Aisin Warner transmission valve body screw up? Mazda recently removed it, but here's the link, read the link: http://www.coremazda.com/tsb/mazda6/05-016-06-transaxle-slippage.pdf .
Your the one spewing crap, believing Mazdas are perfect and require no maintenance. |
You take Mazda's word, i'll take the rest of the world especially when my tranny blew @ 22,000 km. I'm not the only one with tranny issues. as the link said "Flush it often and keep it clean". there are other things that Mazda doesn't do for maintenance that you also need to do, but I would be wasting my breath talking to you anymore.
Actually, why don't you tell me when Mazda recommends changing the power steering fluid or the brake fluid. On my sheet it also says the brake fluid never needs replacing. It also does say "Inspect" steering operation and linkage. Show me proof on this one. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:49 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands