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Tailgate latch not working after tailgate change

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Old Nov 20, 2022 | 02:43 PM
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Default Tailgate latch not working after tailgate change

Hi All, 2010 Petrol 1.3 Mazda 2 (DE). There were some dents in the tailgate, so I got another one from a scrapper. The guy had just cut the wires, so I swapped the tailgate loom from my car to the new tailgate, and now the tailgate latch won't release. Everything else works (rear wiper, high level stop light, heated rear screen, etc), but the tailgate latch won't release. I've tried swapping the latch for my old one (and the release button) - still no luck. I've checked the wiring loom and there is continuity between all the pins at each end. I tried leaving the battery disconnected for the day, but that hasn't made any difference either. All the other locks work on the remote, and the car starts and drives fine, so it doesn't seem to be an immobiliser issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could try next, please?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2025 | 09:54 PM
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Default Avocet did you fix your issue by any chance ? I have the exact same problem

Wondering whether this issue has been resolved please? I have the exact same problem with my daughter‘s car after I changed the tailgate for a straight/un-dented one. Have swapped over button and latch to no avail, even went as far as buying a brand-new button and still no joy.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2025 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy5082
Wondering whether this issue has been resolved please? I have the exact same problem with my daughter‘s car after I changed the tailgate for a straight/un-dented one. Have swapped over button and latch to no avail, even went as far as buying a brand-new button and still no joy.
Sadly, no. I ended up putting the tailgate button into her dash, (just by the driver's knee) and running new wired for it, direct to the actuator in the tailgate. However, that didn't work, because although the tailgate releases, it then closes itself on to its first latch, under its own weight, before you can out of the car and round to the back! I then had to make a couple of spring-loaded pistons that pushed against the body of the tailgate latch, so that when you pressed the button, that pushed it a bit further open, so that the latch was just clear of its striker. That worked fine for a while, but then we sold the car, and I don't know what happened after that, I'm afraid.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 02:42 AM
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Default Problem fixed

I too checked continuity only to find there was no broken wire/s. I actually checked the 2x loom sections seperately, with now joy. However, what I did discover as I was just about to ‘spit the dummy and walk away only to learn that the primary loom section (the one that comes from inside roof cavity) has seven wires and the second loom section has eight. When I swapped tailgates I left the lower (small) loom section insitu and plugged in the original loom section from car to this. This is where my problem started because my original loom had seven wires and the new tailgate had eight I had no idea that there would be a wiring difference in these tailgates but I strongly suspect that you probably faced the same issue with yours and was unaware. hopefully my trials and tribulations may assist others. All the best and thank you for replying. Cheers
 
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 03:45 AM
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Good thought! However, I swapped the tailgate loom for the old one and it still didn't work. I never counted the wires, but obviously, the old loom was working when I took the old tailgate off! I suspect that it's an anti-theft thing and the tailgate lock would need "coding" in some way, back to the original central locking system?
 
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