DE Mazda 2 Struggling to start when engine is warm
Hello everybody
I have a Mazda 2 sport DE model (2009 1.5 litre petrol) with 100k mileage that struggles to start when engine is hot/warm. The engine turns for around 10 seconds before igniting.
I first noticed this issue around the time my engine light was on, so I took it into the garage. They scanned it and said it needed a new knock sensor. They changed the sensor and I thought the issue would be gone, however it still remained. My mechanic then changed the spark plugs and the issue still was not fixed. I asked him whether it could be the starter motor and he said I would probably have the issue all the time if it was that, not just when the engine would be warm. He did not think there was an issue with the fuel line, however I believe there is. He eventually said, see if it gets worse and if it does go to an auto-electrician as it must be an electrical issue. It has not got worse but it is still annoying me.
I have been looking online for answers for a while but have not come across anything similar with an answer. Some posts suggest the fuel pump, others say the main relay, others say the distributor or fuel injectors.
I have checked the starter relay and the main relay by putting 12v DC onto them and checking with a multi meter if they are switching on and off, and they worked ok, so they are not the issue.
My fuel injectors should be ok as I use super unleaded petrol and occasionally the Redex fuel line cleaner. I think the issue may be with my fuel pump but I want to seek advice from here to see if this is a common issue.
Before removing the fuel pump and or the distributor I want to see if anybody has had a similar issue.
Please help.
Thanks in advance.
I have a Mazda 2 sport DE model (2009 1.5 litre petrol) with 100k mileage that struggles to start when engine is hot/warm. The engine turns for around 10 seconds before igniting.
I first noticed this issue around the time my engine light was on, so I took it into the garage. They scanned it and said it needed a new knock sensor. They changed the sensor and I thought the issue would be gone, however it still remained. My mechanic then changed the spark plugs and the issue still was not fixed. I asked him whether it could be the starter motor and he said I would probably have the issue all the time if it was that, not just when the engine would be warm. He did not think there was an issue with the fuel line, however I believe there is. He eventually said, see if it gets worse and if it does go to an auto-electrician as it must be an electrical issue. It has not got worse but it is still annoying me.
I have been looking online for answers for a while but have not come across anything similar with an answer. Some posts suggest the fuel pump, others say the main relay, others say the distributor or fuel injectors.
I have checked the starter relay and the main relay by putting 12v DC onto them and checking with a multi meter if they are switching on and off, and they worked ok, so they are not the issue.
My fuel injectors should be ok as I use super unleaded petrol and occasionally the Redex fuel line cleaner. I think the issue may be with my fuel pump but I want to seek advice from here to see if this is a common issue.
Before removing the fuel pump and or the distributor I want to see if anybody has had a similar issue.
Please help.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by blkmaz; Mar 18, 2025 at 04:24 PM.
Welcome to the forum..
whom ever your shop and the person working on your Mazda is not very good and it is obvious NOT an Automotive Diagnostic Technician.
That said very little you posted is helpful….
So starting over you need to have your ECU scanned again . Check all 3 main areas. Take note of the exact DTC and the state of readiness regarding the monitors. The ret set the ECU. This will turn off the check engine dash light, but will not remove the permanent DTC . Then after the car has sat overnight ,the next drive normally but as soon as the check engine light is activated retrieve the DTC ASAP. Just make note of what they are and post back here.
STOP randomly replaced parts by guessing they are the cause.
BTW all the suggested cures can be confirmed by using the proper testing equipment not by assuming and replacing parts.
whom ever your shop and the person working on your Mazda is not very good and it is obvious NOT an Automotive Diagnostic Technician.
That said very little you posted is helpful….
So starting over you need to have your ECU scanned again . Check all 3 main areas. Take note of the exact DTC and the state of readiness regarding the monitors. The ret set the ECU. This will turn off the check engine dash light, but will not remove the permanent DTC . Then after the car has sat overnight ,the next drive normally but as soon as the check engine light is activated retrieve the DTC ASAP. Just make note of what they are and post back here.
STOP randomly replaced parts by guessing they are the cause.
BTW all the suggested cures can be confirmed by using the proper testing equipment not by assuming and replacing parts.
Welcome to the forum..
whom ever your shop and the person working on your Mazda is not very good and it is obvious NOT an Automotive Diagnostic Technician.
That said very little you posted is helpful….
So starting over you need to have your ECU scanned again . Check all 3 main areas. Take note of the exact DTC and the state of readiness regarding the monitors. The ret set the ECU. This will turn off the check engine dash light, but will not remove the permanent DTC . Then after the car has sat overnight ,the next drive normally but as soon as the check engine light is activated retrieve the DTC ASAP. Just make note of what they are and post back here.
STOP randomly replaced parts by guessing they are the cause.
BTW all the suggested cures can be confirmed by using the proper testing equipment not by assuming and replacing parts.
whom ever your shop and the person working on your Mazda is not very good and it is obvious NOT an Automotive Diagnostic Technician.
That said very little you posted is helpful….
So starting over you need to have your ECU scanned again . Check all 3 main areas. Take note of the exact DTC and the state of readiness regarding the monitors. The ret set the ECU. This will turn off the check engine dash light, but will not remove the permanent DTC . Then after the car has sat overnight ,the next drive normally but as soon as the check engine light is activated retrieve the DTC ASAP. Just make note of what they are and post back here.
STOP randomly replaced parts by guessing they are the cause.
BTW all the suggested cures can be confirmed by using the proper testing equipment not by assuming and replacing parts.
There is no longer an engine light. The mechanic who removed the faulty sensor solved that issue. I thought that the engine light was caused by the stuttering starts but obviously not.
He is a fully qualified, experienced mechanic but this issue left him scratching his head. He did say that the auto electrician would have more advanced diagnostic equipment, so he said to try them. I know from experience that auto electricians are not cheap so I am trying to find the issue myself to save money.
Thank you for your reply. I will invest in a code scanner to try and help me solve the issue.
Hello
There is no longer an engine light. The mechanic who removed the faulty sensor solved that issue. I thought that the engine light was caused by the stuttering starts but obviously not.
He is a fully qualified, experienced mechanic but this issue left him scratching his head. He did say that the auto electrician would have more advanced diagnostic equipment, so he said to try them. I know from experience that auto electricians are not cheap so I am trying to find the issue myself to save money.
Thank you for your reply. I will invest in a code scanner to try and help me solve the issue.
There is no longer an engine light. The mechanic who removed the faulty sensor solved that issue. I thought that the engine light was caused by the stuttering starts but obviously not.
He is a fully qualified, experienced mechanic but this issue left him scratching his head. He did say that the auto electrician would have more advanced diagnostic equipment, so he said to try them. I know from experience that auto electricians are not cheap so I am trying to find the issue myself to save money.
Thank you for your reply. I will invest in a code scanner to try and help me solve the issue.
If you come to a forum for advice and don't take why did you ask in the first place? I also offered myFREE advise if you retrieve the needed information I asked for.


ASE
This is not really a service for an auto electrician (really?? lol) but for a trained and better to be certified as an *Automotive Diagnostic Technician ASE or a Mazda factory certified Automotive Mechanic which is really required to trouble shoot your Mazda model and year. And you did not read what I posted. Simply stated if the problem still is present then there is information in the ECU. Your "mechanic" is not skilled IMHO with any vehcle with a ECU/PCM OBDII and CANBUS system plain and simple. What you said (see red highlighted in quote) is the indication of that.
If you come to a forum for advice and don't take why did you ask in the first place? I also offered myFREE advise if you retrieve the needed information I asked for.

ASE
If you come to a forum for advice and don't take why did you ask in the first place? I also offered myFREE advise if you retrieve the needed information I asked for.


ASE
Just because you seem to know more about cars than people like me who aren't trained in that field does not mean you should mock them. I came here to gain advice and you have replied twice with arrogant comments.
You can shove your FREE advice up your arsehole.
No need to be confrontational and condescending about this.
Just because you seem to know more about cars than people like me who aren't trained in that field does not mean you should mock them. I came here to gain advice and you have replied twice with arrogant comments.
You can shove your FREE advice up your arsehole.
Just because you seem to know more about cars than people like me who aren't trained in that field does not mean you should mock them. I came here to gain advice and you have replied twice with arrogant comments.
You can shove your FREE advice up your arsehole.

As for the rest of your response ...no problem as I totally understand thinned skin individuals on forums! You don't read the advice and want to debate or argue my responses as if suddenly you are experienced?
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