Here is my latest proposed list of coolants suitable for Modern Mazda cars which require the costly FL22

1. Mazda FL22 (pre-mixed)
2. Toyota SLLC (pre-mixed)
3. Castrol Radicool P-OAT (concentrate or pre-mixed)
4. Zerex Asian Vehicle (Green, Blue or Red) (Hard to get in Oz. Premixed)

A Castrol rep emailed me back and explicitly wrote that "Radicool P-OAT does not contain 2-EHA." and "There are no 2-EHA salts." It makes sense as it is listed as complying with the Japanese Industry Standard (JIS) K2234. I'm also glad they make a concentrate as it means one final fill for me after flushing with demineralised water. It is easy to source in Oz and I am very close to getting some.

I have no evidence 2. or 4. contain 2-EHA or its salts, but likewise I have no definitive statement from the manufacturer that they are NOT present.
4. is really hard to get in Oz, only one eBay seller seemed to have it.

I have excluded the following from that list due to the confirmed presence of 2-EH salts (sodium or potassium 2-ethylhexanoate)
1. PrixMax JNK Blue Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant (P-OAT) 5L Bottle JNKB-C5 (attached SDS shows the salt Sodium 2-EH)
2. Ford MC Yellow (see above in this thread where it contains the salt Sodium 2-EH)
3. Ravenol HJC (Oz variant contains Potassium 2-EH salt per its 2020 SDS , and unfortunately is also "without phosphates" which a P-OAT should have)

 

Yes the Rabbit Hole is Dark & you can disappear up its Orifice.

So make the decision & get on with it.

For my case the MAZDA 2 came with a newly fitted "Replacement Radiator"
“Brand: FloKool, Model: RAD1476” (suits Auto), Aluminium Core, resin plastic Top & Bottom.
Inquires through Parts Supplier to Manufacturer confirm it has SILICON Gaskets between the Aluminium Core & the resin plastic Top & Bottom (Does not say that on the Box of the Model: RAD1476 or in the Leaflelt in the Box at The Parts Supplier ......so NO 2EHA allowed....not sure what other silicon gaskets exist in the MAZDA 2 Cooling System.

Toyota cars regularly get to 450,000km using Toyota SLLC PINK without doing a head gasket etc.
'=>> If my Mazda 2 gets to 450,000km (& that is my objective), I'll be pleased from a lowest whole of lifecycle cost perspective.

From a Lowest Cost KISS Perspective, IMO the choice = Toyota SLLC PINK Purchased from the Local Toyota Dealer, you know its fresh (in Date) & they use a lot of it. (MAZDA FL22 is good coolant but expensive for what it is...unless you can purchace it for less than Toyota SLLC PINK, suggest it is not worth it... HOWEVER you need to do the FULL DEMIN WATER FLUSH as detailed, I'll suggest 3 times)


########
Personal Cars that have Run Toyota SLLC PINK Purchased from the Toyota Dealer
2003 1ZZFE Corolla = Was Toyota RED, at 80,000km did a Full DEMIN Flush & Changed to Toyota SLLC PINK Purchased from the Toyota Dealer Changed at 160,000km then every 80,000km after that = Driven from 20,000 to 450,000km then Car on sold when the 2009 2ZRFE Corolla was purchased
2006 1ZZFE Corolla = Toyota SLLC PINK Original as NEW From FACTORY then Purchased from the Toyota Dealer Changed at 160,000km then every 80,000km = Driven 20,000 to 323,000km then sadly it was a statutory write off
2009 2ZRFE Corolla = Toyota SLLC PINK Original as NEW From FACTORY then Purchased from the Toyota Dealer Changed at 100,000km then at 140,000km (5yrs) = Driven 20,000 to 142,000km = Current car
2018 2ARFE RAV4 = Toyota SLLC PINK Original as NEW From FACTORY also Purchased from the Toyota Dealer Changed when the water pump failed early (known item) = Current car

etc

Rob

 

I have. I opted for Castrol Radicool P-OAT concentrate as I have it in writing from Castrol that it contains no 2-EHA nor its salts (Na/K 2-EH). Its crazy how too many alleged FL22 or "Asian car" coolant substitutes contain one or both of those chemicals ! (e.g. ford MC yellow and Ravenol HJC)
I will do a full demin water flush and bought enough water for 4-5 flushes.

Thanks for all the info on the cars you have used Toyota SLCC in - I support your rationale and experience for using Toyota SLLC and that would have been my 2nd choice. It was a close call but in the end I opted for the Radicool P-OAT. As a bonus I got 5L concentrate for A$57 with free shipping from the Sparesbox store on eBay.

PJ

 

Too much web surfing experts.... Coolant is actual simple. Determine by your area the ambientes and then adjust a 100% (NON PREMIX) water to coolant ratio. Buy a simple and easy to use coolant REFRACTOR METER to check for your exact mix. Even most premix (oem Mazda included) are not absolute % contrary to what the may be on the label indicates unless it is worded absolute % guaranteed on the labeling. I believe they even state that on some.

Its just not Rocket Science here about this subject.

As for choice of coolant if the manufacture or market has your vehcle listed then they have determined it safe to use. The coolant (most) will at least meet the minimum requirements by the OE or they would not offer it.

 

Agreed

What do your concentration cacls suggest WRT Residual?
ie What Volume is listed in your cars specific Owners Manual, what is "your measured Cooling System Drained Volume", "Header Tank Volume" & "Nominal Residual in the Block".
Please post your numbers in a separate "Mazda 3 Cooling System Demin Water Flush & Coolant Change Thread"

PJ....Does your Mazda3 have a Block Drain Tap? I was a bit surprised my 2009 Mazda 2 did not have one.

Hope it helped.

###########
Callisto...
a) WRT "Coolant is actual simple"
=>> Sorry I don't agree you need to get the Correct Quality Coolant for your vehicle. I think this thread demonstrates that selecting a suitable coolant alternate to FL22 for a Mazda takes you down a Rabbit Hole to work out what is suitable for use in a MAZDA 2.
=>> I hope this thread & its Sister Thread DIY MAZDA 2 DE 1.5lt ZY-VE Coolant Change help others in the community to DIY & also encourages others to be informed when they ask a Shop to change their coolant.

b) WRT "use coolant REFRACTOR METER to check for your exact mix."
=>> Agreed per my photos, originally they were not cheap. Mine is about 1996 Vintage well before the Chinese Knockoffs Started, as I said Wrenching is fun. (You typically need as Separate Dot3 Brake Fluid Refractometer as well)

c) WRT "if the manufacture or market has your vehcle listed then they have determined it safe to use. The coolant (most) will at least meet the minimum requirements by the OE or they would not offer it."
=>> Well, a bit like the Old Castrol GTX or GTX2 Advertisement..."Oils Ain't Oils" (a bit of Humour for you....Yes I have been around a while)
(Noted that Castrol GTX & GTX2 would Varnish the Top End of your High Performance DOHC 16V 4Cyl 3SGE Motor like you would not believe it is rubbish oil compared to Full Synth ACEA A3B4 or a GF6A & 5,000km or less Oil change intervals were essential).....
=>> "Coolant Ain't just any old Coolant" & "ATF's Ain't Just any Old ATF" particularly if your goal for your Mazda is Lowest Whole of Lifecycle Cost to 450,000kms with no mechanical failure driving Swiftly but never harshly.

Travel safe.
Rob

 

Rob you can agree or not but I don't really post anything that is not backed with empirical data, facts or possibly have engineering and or chemical composition specifications available. I don't read advertisement designed to sell products. LOL And this is what I do for a very nice living since the mid 70s with lots of schooling $$$$$$$ .
I should also add that while your video's are like most designed for DIY and less they are not empirical that's why they are advertisements.

I guess i will also toss in that over the last say about 3 decades I have had countless oil and coolant analysis performed by companies that do this and make available the results of the test. You can also find several of these from myself as well other forum members.

So while i can see you are old school with your thoughts and service practices I suggest to go directly to the manufactures or government agencies that require some coolant and oil companies to post all their data about their products and stopo with the guessing and speculation how things work in your world and find how they actually work and perform in the real world.
Finally in the service shops unless I?we get a customer that is just cutting cost we always use top brand chemicals that are at or above the OEM specification for use.
There is also the :
he Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.). Enacted in 1975, the federal statute governs warranties on consumer products. The law does not require any product to have a warranty (it may be sold "as is"), but if it does have a warranty, the warranty must comply with this law.

In a nutshell because I doubt you will go read its complete information if you use any product that at least meets the OE then if there is a question of auto manufacture warranty, they the manufacture cannot deny a warranty based on the use of other then OEM parts and other products.

Maybe even take a fresher course in Chemical Engineering to catch up on things and then you and I can be close (only close) to being on the same line of responding regarding factual information and not internet information surfer self-made champion.


I also as advise only, when on any forum regardless of the forum type I suggest that in the future if you are going to so question the responses of some members that you at least take a few minutes and look into the member and perhaps their basic information but defiantly randomly looking at their past responses on a form long before you start to question anything about what they respond on any given subject matter.

You to could help other see what your back ground is by maybe responding in this thread below?
What do you do or have done for a living - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums



ASE


Here is a great thread for any and all members to do a quick read before considering taking advise from any member on any automotive forum __________________________________________________ ____________________________________
Car Repair Advice Forum= at your own risk - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums

 

Hi Callisto,
I can see you enjoy a chat.

Re: “what I do for a very nice living since the mid 70s, with lots of schooling $$$$”
=>> Excellent & great to have your input & experience on the Mazdaforum

The Advert videos were humour only, because “C” Ain’t “D”

WRT these little Pearls…..
“old school with your thoughts and service practices”
“because I doubt you will go read its complete information”
“Maybe even take a fresher course ….champion. “
=>> its best not to make assumptions.

as I Noted to you previously in another thread…”
“
02-12-2024, 03:05 PM
Its a No Bait Policy.
"
Per: mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda2-53/mazda-2-de-1-5lt-obd2-pids-53403/
Re: "On some forums we actually have a couple of educated and trained and experienced Service technicians."
If that is the case & you are one of those, pleased to meet you. I am sure we will get on well as the DIY section expands.
"
“

Travel safe.
Rob

 

Yes I have you on my watch list… you like to over post lots of somewhat good information but generally useless to most average forum members . And I suspect if even for you.

Cheerio…..