Yet another cause for click click no start
#1
11-27-2018, 06:04 PM
Yet another cause for click click no start
I have found a few Mazda Proteges that did the famous click click no start were suffering from loose alternator belts and battery connections. I have yet to find one that was actually the starter but of course that is possible.
The particular Mazda Protege in this thread was a 2000 Protege. Everything checked out, the solenoid checked out, the starter checked out, and the fan belt/ battery etc. were fine.
I noticed that when I ran the car with the AC, the key lock got very hot. I also noticed that when it did the click click no start thing (it would always eventually start after repeated attempts) that if I jiggled the key as I turned the key, it would start. This led me to find out that the ignition switch was worn badly since the car did have 190,000 miles. Fun fact - parts like the ignition switch, starter, etc. last a lot longer on cars that commute high miles unlike city driven high mile cars. This car was 70% stop and go bumper to bumper city miles.
DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE (and wait about 5 minutes) BEFORE DOING THIS REPAIR. THE AIRBAG IS IN THE AREA YOU ARE WORKING ON AND ALMOST EVERYTHING ELECTRICAL GOES THROUGH THE IGNITION SWITCH. YOU ARE WARNED!
Big thank you to Mazda - The ignition switch was on the inside of the lower steering wheel trim cover on the left side of the steering wheel and the lock was on the the right side of the steering wheel. I simply removed three screws from the bottom cover, removed the bottom cover, then I removed the top cover by pulling it off, then I removed the big trim piece around the bottom cover by gently pulling it off. The ignition switch is right there and easy to see. Just imagine a line from the ignition switch to the other side and that is where the switch will be. You will need one of those S shaped Phillips screw driver tools or similar to remove the switch. There is just one screw at the top and the bottom of the switch snaps into a bottom slot of hold it steady. All electrical connections are on the outside of the switch at the end. Remove the two plug connectors at the end of the switch ( each plug will only go into its on slot so don't worry about mixing them up). Remove the one screw at the top of the switch. Then wiggle the switch out. It only takes about 10 minutes out and 10 to put it back together but only because the screw is near a piece of steel so you can't just easily take a screwdriver and remove and then reinstall the screw. I would think one of those flexible shaft screw drivers might work but I don't have one. The switch may not be lined up with the steel bar that comes from the ignition lock to the switch when you put the switch in its place and the switch may not fit properly and flush, but all you have to do is hold the switch kind of loose in place and gently move the key a little towards acc and the parts will line up with each other with a soft "snap" since the switch is spring loaded then you can push the switch in all the way. Do not force the switch in place, it should fit easily. Push the switch all the way in, replace and tighten the screw, turn the key to test nothing is binding, then replace the connectors.Test to make sure the switch does not wobble or is not loose by trying to move it with your fingers. Done.
Replace negative battery cable.
The customer has told me the click click issue has not happened again and the ignition lock does not get hot any more so it had to be the switch.
I chose the Airtex/Wells version at Rockauto for about $50.00 and it was obviously OEM and showed made in Japan (NGK company subsidiary box). Same colors etc. EXACT duplicate of the original.
I did an ignition switch on a newer VW and IT WAS A NIGHTMARE!
A bad ignition switch can cause many problems including loss of electrical items while driving, short circuits, blown fuses, possible fire, as well as the engine shutting off while driving so THIS REPAIR is a good idea on high mileage cars even if it does not cure your click click unlike money wasted on a new starter when that was not the problem.
Good luck.
The particular Mazda Protege in this thread was a 2000 Protege. Everything checked out, the solenoid checked out, the starter checked out, and the fan belt/ battery etc. were fine.
I noticed that when I ran the car with the AC, the key lock got very hot. I also noticed that when it did the click click no start thing (it would always eventually start after repeated attempts) that if I jiggled the key as I turned the key, it would start. This led me to find out that the ignition switch was worn badly since the car did have 190,000 miles. Fun fact - parts like the ignition switch, starter, etc. last a lot longer on cars that commute high miles unlike city driven high mile cars. This car was 70% stop and go bumper to bumper city miles.
DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE (and wait about 5 minutes) BEFORE DOING THIS REPAIR. THE AIRBAG IS IN THE AREA YOU ARE WORKING ON AND ALMOST EVERYTHING ELECTRICAL GOES THROUGH THE IGNITION SWITCH. YOU ARE WARNED!
Big thank you to Mazda - The ignition switch was on the inside of the lower steering wheel trim cover on the left side of the steering wheel and the lock was on the the right side of the steering wheel. I simply removed three screws from the bottom cover, removed the bottom cover, then I removed the top cover by pulling it off, then I removed the big trim piece around the bottom cover by gently pulling it off. The ignition switch is right there and easy to see. Just imagine a line from the ignition switch to the other side and that is where the switch will be. You will need one of those S shaped Phillips screw driver tools or similar to remove the switch. There is just one screw at the top and the bottom of the switch snaps into a bottom slot of hold it steady. All electrical connections are on the outside of the switch at the end. Remove the two plug connectors at the end of the switch ( each plug will only go into its on slot so don't worry about mixing them up). Remove the one screw at the top of the switch. Then wiggle the switch out. It only takes about 10 minutes out and 10 to put it back together but only because the screw is near a piece of steel so you can't just easily take a screwdriver and remove and then reinstall the screw. I would think one of those flexible shaft screw drivers might work but I don't have one. The switch may not be lined up with the steel bar that comes from the ignition lock to the switch when you put the switch in its place and the switch may not fit properly and flush, but all you have to do is hold the switch kind of loose in place and gently move the key a little towards acc and the parts will line up with each other with a soft "snap" since the switch is spring loaded then you can push the switch in all the way. Do not force the switch in place, it should fit easily. Push the switch all the way in, replace and tighten the screw, turn the key to test nothing is binding, then replace the connectors.Test to make sure the switch does not wobble or is not loose by trying to move it with your fingers. Done.
Replace negative battery cable.
The customer has told me the click click issue has not happened again and the ignition lock does not get hot any more so it had to be the switch.
I chose the Airtex/Wells version at Rockauto for about $50.00 and it was obviously OEM and showed made in Japan (NGK company subsidiary box). Same colors etc. EXACT duplicate of the original.
I did an ignition switch on a newer VW and IT WAS A NIGHTMARE!
A bad ignition switch can cause many problems including loss of electrical items while driving, short circuits, blown fuses, possible fire, as well as the engine shutting off while driving so THIS REPAIR is a good idea on high mileage cars even if it does not cure your click click unlike money wasted on a new starter when that was not the problem.
Good luck.
#2
12-01-2018, 04:54 AM
Not sure on US models, but there was a recent recall on ignition switches in my market for the 323.
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