Catalyctic Converter change- How to?
 

Hi my friends

My 1999 Mazda Protege LX engine check light is on for a long time and I know it is because of its Catalyctic Converter which is badly clogged.

I want to change it but after searching in internet for parts, I got very confused. My mechanic works in his house then he asked me to buy parts online and take to him for exchange.

In auto parts web sites there are many different parts listed as Catalyctic converters. Like this one

I have no idea what exactly I need to buy.
Also please let me know if I should change Manifold too because here it is listed with catalyctic together and I was wondering if manifold gets clogged too.

You need to find out which cat converter is bad on your car, there are pre-cats (ebay ones you listed IIRC) and the main cats, from what I know the pre-cats are the ones that plug up. What engine do you have? Does the car have low power? What makes you sure the cats are bad?

My goodness, became too complicated! Good I asked before blindly buying :)

OK, Check Engine code is only one error and that is clogged catalyctic converter.
Car was a bit sluggish the moment it starts to move for up to few seconds until it gets to desired speed and then it is OK. I heard it is because catalyctic converter is clogged and because engine need to push lots of smoke out at the moment of moving from speed zero with some acceleration thru somewhat clogged exhaust system.
In fact when I push throttle to start movin, RPM gauge goes maybe up to 3000 but car does not get expected speed and power at all.

Car is 1.6Litre Protege 1999, type LX

Sounds like its the precat then, you can have your mechanic unbolt the cat from the manifold and inspect the cat that way (it should be easy to tell), if it looks good then chances are its the rear cat, my money though is on the pre-cat at the manifold. Also that price for the ebay manifold WITH the cat is not a bad deal IMO BUT you would need more parts (manifold gaskets at least and whatever else is attached that needs to be replaced) than just a new cat, best stick with getting just the pre-cat and call it good.

Thank you very much. I wonder if you know why they do not sell package of whatever is needed to replace Cat?? My mechanic is not interested to get into this deals and even when he needs to get part for my car, we both drive to auto parts, he chooses and I pay!
Then I really need to know what exactly I should buy for full replacement of Pre-cat AND if it did not help what I need in details to buy for replacing rear one.

Usually all you need is the cat itself, it should come with any gaskets if needed, manifolds are a different beast entirely. It looks like (just from part picture) this is a fairly easy replacement, just a couple bolts and it should pop out.

OK, I am returning from my mechanic. Weird story!
1- He says these cars (1999 Mazda Protege LX 1.6L) does not have rear/post Cat?! [I don't know, maybe he really means it or he means it is not important to change it]
2- He asks almost $600 for replacing pre-Cat :/

Now I just assume I take it somewhere else and they charge me less for replacing both Cats and O2 censors (which he says are not good). It is going to cost me not less than $700. I really do not think this $2000 car worth such a costy repair. I do not know but as the problem is not that emergency, I may decide to drive it as much as I can change the car in future or it breaks down and I sell for cheap. Really stupid repair costs http://www.mazdas247.com/members/evi...lies/frown.gif

About Fouler trick, I dont know how it helps (I am not that geeky), specially when partially clogged Cat exist in exhaust circuit.

I was thinking about those eBay Cats for around $120 for pre-Cat and $70 for rear/post Cat. I know I cannot do the rear one as it needs welding. You guys told me that it is easy to do pre-Cat at home. Honestly is it really easy? I do not know about torque or sealing stuff. Are they really worth the money and work? (I mean they just let the smoke flows away, we do not need more than that).

If you were the person who posted on the other Mazda forum then try the non-fouler trick located at:
How to cure Cel/Mil from removing cat with Non-Fouler

@tradosaurus:
Thanks for suggestion but I realized Non-Fouler just helps to avoid getting Check Engine Light to turns on (if I am correct)?
I live in Florida and my problem is not that. I do not care it comes on or not because we do not have vehicle inspection here.
My car issue is being some sluggish which got proved it is because of Catalyctic Converter or Converters (as I still do not know my 99 Protege 1.6L has one of two of them! Mechanic says one.)

If you don't have vehicle inspections AND are not selling your car, you may have the option of removing your cats. You may have to remove them and have someone install an updated system with no cats (here you would need anti-foulers for no cel).
Or you could gut your cat and put in a straight pipe------this way you still have a cat visually, but may need anti-foulers again.