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-   -   1995 Protege 1.5L Alternator Help (https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-protege-23/1995-protege-1-5l-alternator-help-18265/)

sumbich 04-07-2009 11:57 AM

1995 Protege 1.5L Alternator Help
 
Hi all. I am working on replacing the alternator in my 95 Protege and have removed the alternator but am having trouble actually removing it from the engine compartment. I have a Haynes manual for the car which says that I have to remove the EGR Solenoid Bracket and the Power Steering Pressure Line Brace.

I think I have located and removed the EGR Bracket, but am clueless as to where the PSP Brace is. Is there an easier solution to my problem?

Thank you all in advance.

oldeng 04-07-2009 02:25 PM

On my '99 1.8L, its a hose support bracket (brace) assembly bolted to the chassis just forward of the top of the r.h. suspension strut tower, very easy to see and get at. Undoing the bracket assembly allows you to push the 2 power steering fluid lines back toward the firewall a bit, giving you more clearance to lift out the alternator (you don't disconnect any of the actual plumbing).
It's really tight working in there though.

sumbich 04-07-2009 06:10 PM

Thanks for your reply. I had another go at it this afternoon and got it out. It was tough, that space in there is really tight, I had to shimmy it back and forth to get it out. Now I get to install the new one...

The new one has an embedded washer on the inside bottom mounting hole, don't think I remember one on the old one. When I was just now trying to mount it, it will not slide on. Is there and easy way to get it on, or do I just have to shimmy it?

sumbich 04-08-2009 09:42 AM

Nevermind, got it. Had to take the alternator back out and hammer that washer on the inside so that it was flush with the rest of the mounting arm. Slid on no problem.

oldeng 04-08-2009 10:37 AM

Good: That thing is called a bushing or a sleeve, or an insert, by the way, not a washer.
Here's an important step you should consider. When you're ready to roll, make sure your battery is in good shape and fully charged before you start commissioning your new alternator. With the engine stopped, if your battery doesn't read at least 13 volts (no load), and at least 12.3 volts after you've put headlights on for about 5 minutes, you may have a battery issue which can fool you into thinking your new alternator is no good. If you read good voltages, you're good to go. If not, you can recharge the battery or hook up booster cables from another car whose engine is running, and get yourself underway. (A battery delivering low volts can start your engine OK but it won't excite the alternator properly, and your battery warning light will appear even though the alternator itself is perfectly OK, so always remember, battery first, alternator next.)


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