weber swap
#2
02-18-2007, 05:14 PM
RE: weber swap
I recently purchased a 2.6 that had a weber on it and it ran great but won't pass the smog test if you live somewhere that has one. The converter plate for the weber is two peices but holds up well. Do not be fooled into a holley kit (I could not find on that worked and had to make one myself). Tom Cat still offers a nice rebuilt factory carb
#3
02-18-2007, 07:30 PM
RE: weber swap
sorry i'm from the old school if i could find an adapter to fit a holly 350cfm carb on it i would. i've rebuild my stock nikki carb. they still suck. they are not easily jettable you cant hand tune them and they still have a tendancy to run rich no matter how well you have your sensors and ecu tuned.
#4
02-25-2007, 08:21 PM
RE: weber swap
I currently have a Weber 38. It turned a pooch into a striped assed ape. With a header and the Weber carb, it REALLY woke up that sleeping 2.6
#7
03-13-2007, 07:13 AM
RE: weber swap
I swapped to Weber 36/32 DGEV about 15 months ago, runs great. Mileage is same as before, 20 mpg tops, '88 B2200 Cab Plus. Here's some comments I wrote down then:
Comments about Weber K675 kit for Mazda B2200 1988 (Weber 32/36 DGEV)
Buy some extra 5/32 inch vacuum hose for stuff like the distributor vacuum advance, and some vacuum block-off caps (or use vacuum hose and golf tees).
Instructions detailed a 6mm hex/allen key being required for the adapter screws; actually, it was a 5mm hex key required, and I cut down a 5mm L-shaped hex key with a hacksaw to use in my 5mm socket so I could use my torque wrench to get 12 ft-lb of torque like the instructions stated.
Bottom adapter plate needs to be ground away around the intake manifold PCV inlet, best if a bench grinder is available; there is a picture showing this, why couldn’t manufacturer just take care of this?
I replaced the brittle, hard PCV tubing with 3/8 inch fuel line.
The supplied carb mounting studs are too long (they are the same length as those removed from the intake manifold). A shorter one is needed for the rear right location to have clearance to get the nut on; I had to cut one shorter for that spot. I’d also advise installing the studs BEFORE mounting the top adapter, there’s no other way to make sure that they don’t get installed too deeply.
The top adapter plate could go in either of two orientations as it’s not symmetrical. I still don’t know which way is correct, not shown instructions.
I’d recommend using the 12mm head nuts from the Mazda to mount the carb itself, as the supplied ones have a 13mm head (the threads are the same). This will provide more clearance for tightening. These 12mm head nuts are available from Japanese vehicle parts counters or as JIS nuts at places like Ace Hardware.
The instructions did not mention how to mount the return spring at the bottom; it turns out that there was an almost-oval bracket with two holes included for mounting in the place where the dashpot was, but no mention of the bracket was in the instructions. It's actually better to mount it on the rearmost EGR valve bolt.
One side of the two air cleaner clamps for the rear need to be ground down a little so that they seat fully into the bottom groove; if not, they will hit the carb itself.
There should have been a right-angle adapter for the crankcase ventilation hose; the supplied one points down, making it difficult to attach to the valve cover outlet because of the bends required. I used a brass right-angle 3/8 tubing fitting and 15/32 smog hose for this; I saw in a photo of a kit online where a right-angle adapter is shown. The hole in the air cleaner bottom was just a pinch too small for the supplied adapter anyway, so I had to ream the hole a little larger.
Instructions should’ve stated to re-route the choke wire more to the front of the engine so that no extension to the wire would be needed.
I added a L-shaped bracket to the supplied accelerator cable bracket for my add-on Audiovox cruise control. I ‘broadened” the cable groove using a small vise-grip as the cruise control cable was a little to the side. I used a 2 inch corner brace mounted to one of the now-unused valve cover holes to attach the accelerator and cruise control cables with a cable tie, to keep them off the hot valve cover.
I used three #2 rubber stoppers from Ace Hardware to seal off the reed valves.
Instructions did not state whether I needed to put any oil like K&N on the new air cleaner element.
Instructions were not clear about the EGR valve connection. Apparently they meant that the vacuum hose that went to the thermo valve (underneath the manifold, has two vacuum ports at an angle) now goes to the EGR port on the carb. This is the port just rearward of where the distributor vacuum advance goes, but the small brass cap needs to be unscrewed first with a tiny screwdriver.
Photos are posted at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2334519/1
On my carb, I found that a small "U" shaped rod #61 never had the tiny #60 cotter pin (called "split pine") on attached link http://www.webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/32_36DGAVEV.pdf so I had to find a small cotter pin and install it, as it had come loose.
Comments about Weber K675 kit for Mazda B2200 1988 (Weber 32/36 DGEV)
Buy some extra 5/32 inch vacuum hose for stuff like the distributor vacuum advance, and some vacuum block-off caps (or use vacuum hose and golf tees).
Instructions detailed a 6mm hex/allen key being required for the adapter screws; actually, it was a 5mm hex key required, and I cut down a 5mm L-shaped hex key with a hacksaw to use in my 5mm socket so I could use my torque wrench to get 12 ft-lb of torque like the instructions stated.
Bottom adapter plate needs to be ground away around the intake manifold PCV inlet, best if a bench grinder is available; there is a picture showing this, why couldn’t manufacturer just take care of this?
I replaced the brittle, hard PCV tubing with 3/8 inch fuel line.
The supplied carb mounting studs are too long (they are the same length as those removed from the intake manifold). A shorter one is needed for the rear right location to have clearance to get the nut on; I had to cut one shorter for that spot. I’d also advise installing the studs BEFORE mounting the top adapter, there’s no other way to make sure that they don’t get installed too deeply.
The top adapter plate could go in either of two orientations as it’s not symmetrical. I still don’t know which way is correct, not shown instructions.
I’d recommend using the 12mm head nuts from the Mazda to mount the carb itself, as the supplied ones have a 13mm head (the threads are the same). This will provide more clearance for tightening. These 12mm head nuts are available from Japanese vehicle parts counters or as JIS nuts at places like Ace Hardware.
The instructions did not mention how to mount the return spring at the bottom; it turns out that there was an almost-oval bracket with two holes included for mounting in the place where the dashpot was, but no mention of the bracket was in the instructions. It's actually better to mount it on the rearmost EGR valve bolt.
One side of the two air cleaner clamps for the rear need to be ground down a little so that they seat fully into the bottom groove; if not, they will hit the carb itself.
There should have been a right-angle adapter for the crankcase ventilation hose; the supplied one points down, making it difficult to attach to the valve cover outlet because of the bends required. I used a brass right-angle 3/8 tubing fitting and 15/32 smog hose for this; I saw in a photo of a kit online where a right-angle adapter is shown. The hole in the air cleaner bottom was just a pinch too small for the supplied adapter anyway, so I had to ream the hole a little larger.
Instructions should’ve stated to re-route the choke wire more to the front of the engine so that no extension to the wire would be needed.
I added a L-shaped bracket to the supplied accelerator cable bracket for my add-on Audiovox cruise control. I ‘broadened” the cable groove using a small vise-grip as the cruise control cable was a little to the side. I used a 2 inch corner brace mounted to one of the now-unused valve cover holes to attach the accelerator and cruise control cables with a cable tie, to keep them off the hot valve cover.
I used three #2 rubber stoppers from Ace Hardware to seal off the reed valves.
Instructions did not state whether I needed to put any oil like K&N on the new air cleaner element.
Instructions were not clear about the EGR valve connection. Apparently they meant that the vacuum hose that went to the thermo valve (underneath the manifold, has two vacuum ports at an angle) now goes to the EGR port on the carb. This is the port just rearward of where the distributor vacuum advance goes, but the small brass cap needs to be unscrewed first with a tiny screwdriver.
Photos are posted at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2334519/1
On my carb, I found that a small "U" shaped rod #61 never had the tiny #60 cotter pin (called "split pine") on attached link http://www.webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/32_36DGAVEV.pdf so I had to find a small cotter pin and install it, as it had come loose.
#8
03-13-2007, 01:39 PM
RE: weber swap
thats kinda over kill man, a certain amout of customizing is to be expectedwhen installing an aftermarket part. think did you have to grind your stock stereo location any when you put then new kenwood in? and about the lack of good destructions well thats just it, if you cant put a carb on ANYTIHNG with out um you aught not put a carb on any thing
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