Weber Conversion
 

I recently installed a weber carb on my 88. Can anybody tell me as far as the emissions stuff, what do I need to keep. For example, do still need the oxygen sensor, EGR valve, etc. I have tried everything plugged in and not plugged in. I have even tried to completly unplug the computer, no difference. Any advice would be appreciated. I have also replaced distributer cap, rotor button, plugs wires, fuel pump, fuel filter (4 or 5 times). Carb is still cutting out whenI get on it. I have had the carb adjusted a couple of times now, and nothing seems to help.

RE: Weber Conversion
 

I converted my '88 B2200 about 1.5 years ago to Weber 32/36 DGEV. I don't have the O2 sensor hooked up. I do have EGR and thecharcoal cannister hooked up, and the vacuum to the distributor. All the connections to the computer are disconnected. The reed valves have rubber stoppers in them. Mine runs fine, no fuel pressure regulator, but I have a repalcement mechanical fuel pump. I also had to swap out the ignitor and pickup in the distributor just after that, as mine were bad.

RE: Weber Conversion
 

thanks Cusser, 1 more question if you dont mind, are you pulling a continous vaccum on the egr valve?

RE: Weber Conversion
 

Good question: until last week I had the EGR hooked up directly to the carburetor. Then last week I re-routed it so the carb vacuum port goes to the thermo-valve on the underside of theintake manifold, then from there to EGR. Someone had posted about this being the preferred arrangement, so the EGR actually works better. As to driveability, I don't notice the change.

RE: Weber Conversion
 

runthe EGRto the duty valve, from the duty valve to the intake manafold.

RE: Weber Conversion
 

Got the problem fixed. Like your truck Cusser, my fuel hand wasn't working. I bought a new sending unit and installed. I couldn't get a new fuel strainer, soI used the old one. Like an idiot,I didn't measure the length of the old suction line. The strainer bottom was sucking up to the suction line on the new sending unit and starving the carb. I dropped the tank again and found all this. I cut about an inch off the bottom of the suction line and now the strainer fits perfect. I'm not sure if the old one was like this, but it sure is nice to have a truck that isn't cutting out. As far as that EGR valve, You said you had it hooked up to the thermo valve, is that the blue valve that is on the intake underside closest to the firewall?

RE: Weber Conversion
 

Yep, that's the one. So how tough was it to drop and re-install the gas tank? Do you have full instructions?

RE: Weber Conversion
 

I don't have a set of instructions, I just kind of winged it. But here is the jist of it. There are 8 nuts holding the tank in at 4 places. Its double nutted. It takes a 14mm deep socket, and a 12mm deep socket to get these off. You may need a 14mm open end wrench cause sometimes the bolts spin. I took the 12 mm nut completely off, and then loosened the other nut until there were maybe 1 or 2 rounds of threads left to completely take it off. I then unhooked the 2 filler tubes, (filler tube and overflow) at the neck where the gas cap is. I also removed the neck for the gas cap. Then I unhooked 2 vacuum hoses (1 going to the engine, and 1 going to the check valve that is located above the frame at the tank) and then the suction hose and the return line. And there is 1 electrical line to the sending unit. Then I took a floor jack and got the weight off the 4 nuts and removed them. The the tank just lowers with the floor jack. You have to slide it around a bit because the filler tube and overflow tube will try to hang on the frame rail. All of this is a lot easier if you remove the right rear wheel, but can be done without doing that. I also put the truck up on 4 jack stands to make it easier to crawl under the truck, but make sure that the truck is level making it easier to re-install the gas tank. To re-install I completely took just the filler tube off the tank so It wouldn't hang on the frame. If you will take some grease or something slick and coat the filler tube at both ends, it will make re-installing the tube much easier. I dropped my tank in about an hour, and it took about an hour to re-install, but this is the second time in a couple of months that I have done this. If you drop the tank to replace the sending unit, my only advice is to check out the suction tube on the new sending unit, to make sure when the strainer is secured, that there is a small gap between the suction line and the bottom of the strainer. I hope this helps!

Reed valve plugs
 

How did you plug the reed valve plumbing and what did you use

Once I had the EGR valve hooked up to that thermo valve under the intake manifold, yes. But once you convert to Weber you can delete the EGR valve using a metal blockoff, or just use the disconnected EGR as its own blockoff. Photo of my EGR blockoff below; if I was making new, I'd add an "ear" of metal and drill a hole in that for the throttle return spring so I wouldn't need the little throttle bracket shown.

I did my Weber 32/36 DGEV conversion about 12 years ago.


Two of those Reed valve lines bolt on fittings on the exhaust manifold. Those fittings on that exhaust manifold get capped off; I used 14mm x 1.5mm wheel lugs from O'Reillys (about $6 for four) to plug the pair tube outlets coming out the upper manifold heat shield. For the remaining one I just made a block off plate from a little piece of sheet metal, something like this (copy/paste this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psc9fcdfac.jpg ) Someone else's write up for this is here Air Injection Delete: AKA Those Ugly Steel Tubes On The Exhaust Manifold