Truck won't start
#1
09-12-2013, 10:43 AM
Truck won't start
I have a 2002 mazda b2300 2.3l pickup with 89,800 miles. Engine cranks but It won't start. It has been running just fine and when I moved it back a little in the drive to do yard work. When I went to put the truck back where it was it would not start.
I replaced the ignition coil and it does have spark. Checked the inertia cutoff switch and did a reset even though it was not in the open position (or up). Checked on fuses and they are good. I believe I can hear the fuel pump from when I removed the gas caps and told my wife to turn the key to the on position but not to crank it over. At times while trying to crank it over it does seem to want to start but for just for a few seconds then quits. I crank the engine with a fully charged battery. What else can I check or do or even replace? Would appreciate an answer at this is the only vehicle I drive since my wife takes the newer car to work. I am disabled so I use my truck to get around locally. Thank you in advanced.
John G.
I replaced the ignition coil and it does have spark. Checked the inertia cutoff switch and did a reset even though it was not in the open position (or up). Checked on fuses and they are good. I believe I can hear the fuel pump from when I removed the gas caps and told my wife to turn the key to the on position but not to crank it over. At times while trying to crank it over it does seem to want to start but for just for a few seconds then quits. I crank the engine with a fully charged battery. What else can I check or do or even replace? Would appreciate an answer at this is the only vehicle I drive since my wife takes the newer car to work. I am disabled so I use my truck to get around locally. Thank you in advanced.
John G.
#2
09-14-2013, 03:45 AM
You may have flooded it.
Put your foot fully on the gas pedal, wind it over, when it tries to fire up slowly release your foot off the gas pedal. You may also need to clean/dry the spark plugs first.
Put your foot fully on the gas pedal, wind it over, when it tries to fire up slowly release your foot off the gas pedal. You may also need to clean/dry the spark plugs first.
#3
09-16-2013, 09:19 AM
Thank you for responding Grim Reaper. I just removed the spark plugs and they were soaked. I am going to the auto parts store right now and just buy new plugs and plug wires before trying to start again. It has been over 2 years I believe since I have changed them. Will get back with you and let you know if that was the problem. Hope it is. Thanks again.
#4
09-19-2013, 08:24 AM
Okay reaper, I put new spark plugs and wires and it still cranks but won't start. I am really frustrated with this. I also removed the oil cap and had wife crank it and saw the cams were moving. So was just making sure that the timing chain was working. At my wits end trying to figure this out. Still everything seems to point to fuel pump. But before having someone professional to work on it and paying big dollars I wanted to try other options since my financial situation is very limited. This truck is paid for and has 89,000 miles and have owned it since 2003. I like my truck and want to keep it. So I'll do what needs to be done to get it fixed but because of my financial situation I can't get it done when I like. I am disabled and get paid just once a month so any help or thoughts from you or anyone else will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for rambling. Thanks again.
Last edited by johniegonzo; 09-19-2013 at 08:28 AM.
#6
10-23-2013, 05:33 PM
My 92 b2600i had the exact same problem. I checked the fuel pump with a pressure gauge, replaced the regulator on the injection rail and changed the firewall mounted gas filter. Nothing. Would not start.
I started digging around on the internet and found that this is a common problem on older cars using the same ECM that our trucks do.
I contacted AVPRO and they rebuilt my ECM. When I got it back, I put it in the truck and it fired right up. That was 3 or 4 years ago, and it runs like a top. Here is an email I received from them at the time:
support@avproecm.com
Hello, the computer you are looking for is so rare people are breaking into cars to steal them. The only unit we have we are using for parts. The cost to repair that ecm is $160 US, $195 Canada (price INCLUDES return priority mail). If ecms arrive before 11 AM we have time to process them and get them sent out the same day via USPS Priority mail. The warranty is for as long as you own the car. Priority to AvPro, P.O. box 6612, Fort Myers Beach, FL 33932 is the best way to send to us as we are on an island and other carriers do not get here until after noon to as late as 10 PM. PLEASE include name, address and phone # inside the box with the ecm.
Business checks or certified payment only. No credit cards. Postal M.O.s cost about a dollar. These should be included with the unit or C.O.D. charges will apply.
Thank you for the email. Any other questions please call or send your phone #. Nick
Just for clarity, what we sell is a lifetime warranty. If a unit arrives here we HAVE to determine a problem before it can be repaired. If the unit is still operational we will make upgrades to insure it will CONTINUE to work in the future and we are confident enough to warrant it as long as you own the car.(Truck)"
Contact them first, as prices may have changed. They brought my truck back from the dead, hopefully, they can help you.
They do have a web site. www.avproecm.com
I started digging around on the internet and found that this is a common problem on older cars using the same ECM that our trucks do.
I contacted AVPRO and they rebuilt my ECM. When I got it back, I put it in the truck and it fired right up. That was 3 or 4 years ago, and it runs like a top. Here is an email I received from them at the time:
support@avproecm.com
Hello, the computer you are looking for is so rare people are breaking into cars to steal them. The only unit we have we are using for parts. The cost to repair that ecm is $160 US, $195 Canada (price INCLUDES return priority mail). If ecms arrive before 11 AM we have time to process them and get them sent out the same day via USPS Priority mail. The warranty is for as long as you own the car. Priority to AvPro, P.O. box 6612, Fort Myers Beach, FL 33932 is the best way to send to us as we are on an island and other carriers do not get here until after noon to as late as 10 PM. PLEASE include name, address and phone # inside the box with the ecm.
Business checks or certified payment only. No credit cards. Postal M.O.s cost about a dollar. These should be included with the unit or C.O.D. charges will apply.
Thank you for the email. Any other questions please call or send your phone #. Nick
Just for clarity, what we sell is a lifetime warranty. If a unit arrives here we HAVE to determine a problem before it can be repaired. If the unit is still operational we will make upgrades to insure it will CONTINUE to work in the future and we are confident enough to warrant it as long as you own the car.(Truck)"
Contact them first, as prices may have changed. They brought my truck back from the dead, hopefully, they can help you.
They do have a web site. www.avproecm.com
#7
10-24-2013, 07:49 AM
??????????????????????????????
What about leaking fuel injectors that soak the plug?
He did replace ign coil, plugs and wires and said he had spark.
ECU as per last post? maybe?
What about leaking fuel injectors that soak the plug?
He did replace ign coil, plugs and wires and said he had spark.
ECU as per last post? maybe?
#8
10-24-2013, 09:05 AM
I would exactly do what nhtrib did: replace or st least check the fuel filter and regulator, and if that doesn't cure it have the ECM looked at.
All the best!
All the best!
#9
10-26-2013, 12:06 PM
Update: Sorry have not gotten back to you guys but been sick for a while. So far this is what I have done. I bought a new battery also. As for injectors soaking the plugs or injectors leaking how would I be able to tell. I don't smell any gas around the engine while trying to start. Now since I replaced the coil (new) and it's getting spark and fuses are good. Fuel pump seems good since plugs appear to get gas to them. But now I am wondering about the fuel pump since I can't seem to hear it when I put my ear to the gas cap opening. I've tried all suggestions except the ECM thing and still other forums say that it might be the timing chain. But here is what happened on the day it stop starting. I needed to move the truck back in my drive so I could trim the grass near the edge of the drive. It started up fine just it has always done since I bought it back in 2003. When I was done trimming the edge I wanted to move the truck back to where it was and it would not start. My question is that I feel it might be elitrical since it happened instantly and without prior problems or warning. ????? Confusing...at least for me. So fellows other than taking it to a professional and paying big bucks I am opened to all and any suggestions. Again let me state that I am disabled and money is a big issues. To send it to a mechanic would mean saving money since I only get paid once a month and living on a tight budget makes me want to try everything before having it tolled to a mechanic to look at it. Thanks again for all the post and advice and keep them coming.
P.S. Just found this article about a person with a similar problem.. and this was the advice given to him:
You need to check fuel pressure (should be around 35 PSI with fuel pump activated, like when you turn the key to RUN (fuel pump runs for 1 second, I think), or when you turn the key to START. If the fuel pump's not running at all, check that the inertial fuel cutoff switch under the brake power booster has not been tripped. If you can push the button in and it clicks, it was tripped. It can be tripped by releasing the park brake sometimes. Check that you have spark when cranking the engine. Check that you have injector pulse using your test light or meter at the injector connectors. If you have all that OK it should start unless the timing belt has failed and skipped enough teeth that the engine won't run. I'd assume that the shop has checked all this and it's all OK but any one of these factors would prevent your engine from starting. I'm assuming that the engine won't even fire, not that it'll start and die which is different than no start at all.
Word to the wise: Don't spend money, time and energy replacing parts unless you've diagnosed that the parts are faulty. Sounds like a lot of guesswork's been done here and nobody's gotten lucky. If nothing works for you, tow the truck to a Ford or Mazda specialist. These things are not so hard to diagnose if you have the right tools and experience and know the vehicle.
Thanks again all,
Johnnie
P.S. Just found this article about a person with a similar problem.. and this was the advice given to him:
You need to check fuel pressure (should be around 35 PSI with fuel pump activated, like when you turn the key to RUN (fuel pump runs for 1 second, I think), or when you turn the key to START. If the fuel pump's not running at all, check that the inertial fuel cutoff switch under the brake power booster has not been tripped. If you can push the button in and it clicks, it was tripped. It can be tripped by releasing the park brake sometimes. Check that you have spark when cranking the engine. Check that you have injector pulse using your test light or meter at the injector connectors. If you have all that OK it should start unless the timing belt has failed and skipped enough teeth that the engine won't run. I'd assume that the shop has checked all this and it's all OK but any one of these factors would prevent your engine from starting. I'm assuming that the engine won't even fire, not that it'll start and die which is different than no start at all.
Word to the wise: Don't spend money, time and energy replacing parts unless you've diagnosed that the parts are faulty. Sounds like a lot of guesswork's been done here and nobody's gotten lucky. If nothing works for you, tow the truck to a Ford or Mazda specialist. These things are not so hard to diagnose if you have the right tools and experience and know the vehicle.
Thanks again all,
Johnnie
Last edited by johniegonzo; 10-26-2013 at 12:15 PM.
#10
10-26-2013, 03:22 PM
The ECM goes bad in a heart beat. I had driven my truck less than a half mile, and it was fine. When I tried to restart it to drive home, it just barely started, and had the power to move, but only on flat ground. And, if you pushed the gas pedal past a fast idle, it would bog and die. Luckily, I got it home and into my driveway. After that, it would not start at all. After checking the fuel pump pressure (and making sure it held that pressure), I replaced the filter and fuel rail pressure regulator. It did not run AT ALL until The ECM got back from AVPRO.
Now, this will make you smile. The mail man dropped of the rebuilt ECM. I rushed right out to the truck, put the ECM back in place, hooked up the two multi-connectors, put the cover on and went around the truck and got in the driver's seat. Put the key in and turned it. NOTHING!!!! TOTALLY DEAD!!!!! Well, I thought, there went $160 down the drain. OH, WAIT A MINUTE!!!!!! I had unhooked the postitve cable from the battery before removing the ECM to send it in. I hooked up the battery cable, and it started right up. IMAGINE THAT??!?!?
Now, this will make you smile. The mail man dropped of the rebuilt ECM. I rushed right out to the truck, put the ECM back in place, hooked up the two multi-connectors, put the cover on and went around the truck and got in the driver's seat. Put the key in and turned it. NOTHING!!!! TOTALLY DEAD!!!!! Well, I thought, there went $160 down the drain. OH, WAIT A MINUTE!!!!!! I had unhooked the postitve cable from the battery before removing the ECM to send it in. I hooked up the battery cable, and it started right up. IMAGINE THAT??!?!?