I just bought this pickup and have had no luck getting it running right. I replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, rebuilt carb. replaced vaccum lines, checked electrical connections, checked cat, good fuel supply, and it still hesitates and boggs out. Idles well and revs up fine without load. When I accel. it bogs and misses and once the rpm's are up it misses and boggs still. Any help would be great!!!

 

have you checked the base timing like cam and crank(out one tooth) or dizzy out one tooth off #1
link to autozone online manual might help
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...Parameters=024

 

You know I havn't but I don't think it is that cause it runs great while at idle and when i throttle it in park. It is only while there is a load on the motor that it runs poorly. I also discovered a coolant leak from the head gasket coming out the exhaust side by #1. I checked compression on all cylinders and they all had right around 148. So right now she is tore down and I am replacing head gasket and all seals and gaskets I can without pulling the block. I read somewhere about using my dwell meter and adjusting the fuel air mixture. Have you ever done that? Any luck with it? Thanks for the reply!

 

it could be the accelerater pump on the carb you have enough fuel at idle and no load but not the extra shot needed for the load
your comprsion is good
air/fuel mix could be out as well to lean for the load. my truck is fuel injected so i don't know much about the carbs on the older one's

 

when i rebuilt the carb i replaced the accel pump. i just got the motor back together and the head gasket is fixed but the bogging problem still haunts me. I am about to put the dwell meter on the air/fuel check connection and see what it says... Hope I find something good!!

 

I put the dwell meter on the Air/Fuel Solinoid check connection and it was reading 0 degrees. It did not move at all. when I hooked it up to the wire it jumps from one end of the meter to the other but does not move. I have never used before for that purpose so I might be doing it wrong. I did find that one of the electrical connections over on the passenger side firewall was loose and reconnected it. It made a huge difference in performance but there still is a slight hesitaion on slow acceleration and it kind of misses/ hesitates when I let off the throttle on heavy accel. Any ideas??

 

Do you have the positive lead of the dwell meter hooked up to the Brown wire w/ Yellow stripe in right rear corner of engine compartment and negative lead hooked to negative battery post? Need to have engine at operating temp and then hold RPM at 2000 for 2 minutes or so to get the oxygen sensor up to speed. Needle of dwell meter should be fluctuating back and forth over the middle area of the scale or at least fluctuating somewhere at higher rpm and when dropped back to idle. If it is not then check the voltage signal from the oxygen sensor. this voltage should be fluctuating between 100-900 milivolts DC.

 

Yes I did all that with the dwell meter and it is spiked out to 0 degrees. I was reading online and it was saying that the tip of the needle valve inside the a/f solenoid breaks off and causes it to do exactly what I am having problems with. And if the meter is reading zero the solenoid is "leaning" my truck to the max. That would make sense as far as the symptoms I am having go. I am going to the u-pull-r-parts and trying to get another one and see if it helps at all. I pulled mine out and it was really dirty and gummed up too. If I can't find one at the junkyard I will clean mine up well and put it back in and see if that makes a difference. By the way the o2 sensor is almost brand new so I am pretty sure that is not the problem.I will read the voltage once I get it back together though. Thanks for your help, I was waiting for your input, you seem to really know whats up with these mazdas! I will keep you all pdated as to what I find out!

ps. If you want to learn more about the Air/Fuel Solenoid check this site out!!

Troubleshooting electronic carburetors

 

All of that stuff on the carburetor is designed to fail to a rich condition unless something gets stuck in a leaner mode during normal operation. There are many things that can cause those symptoms, bad ignition coil, bad coil wires, bad ground, bad plugs, fouled plugs, inconsistant compression, too much leakage, lean fuel mixture, rich fuel mixture, worn cam lobe, bad hydraulic lash adjustor, worn out valve tip, sticking valve, burnt valve, exhaust leak, bad magnetic pickup, dirt in float bowl, low fuel pressure, low fuel flow, rust in gas tank, engine running too hot ....

Check out some of this stuff especially under the tech info column:

B2200 Tech Page

Also check out this:

B2200 FAQ Post

There is a link on there that will take you to factory information about testing the stock carburetor.

 

So I went to the u-pull-r-parts and did not find the right A/F solenoid. I cleaned mine up but have not put it back in yet. I need to find some new o-rings. The old ones are shot. Will keep you all updated!