hi all, i have a 92 b2200 (5 speed. carb) that is completely worn out. i purchased a remanu. long block (2.2l) and its here. has anyone got any stories, "gotcha's"or pit falls i need to know about prior to starting this project?

 

I've had the engine out of my 92 carbureted manual transmission B2200 a couple of times. I made the mistake of using a cork pan gasket the first time after the engine was rebuilt. The cork gasket split at the rear driver side and it leaked oil. I used high temp RTV sealant the second time and all is well.

Get a repair manual. I like the Haynes manual for engine work. I've been wrenching for a long time, but the manual gave me information that is specific to this vehicle that I wouldn't have known without it.

Things I discovered the hard way:

If you are renting an engine hoist, make sure it has chains, hooks, and a load balancer with chains with head bolt tabs.

Get some very large zip lock plastic bags, and as nuts, bolts, screws, and varous parts are removed, put the parts that go together in a bag and write on the bag what they're for.

There are two 6mm bolts on the bottom the of splash plate of the transmission. Don't forget to remove them before you separate the old engine from the transmission. They're easy to miss.

You don't have to remove the carb and intake manifold to get the old engine out and the new one in. Use bungy cords from the intake manifold to the passenger side wheel well to hold it out of the way.

The driver side of the engine compartment is a maze of brackets, pumps, exhaust parts, etc. As you take things apart and remove them from the engine compartment, take pictures and make notes - lots of notes! Make sure the pictures show the details you need to put it back together. I have three repair manuals for this vehicle and none of them do an adequate job of showing how it all goes back together. It has to go back together in a specific order since brackets, motor mounts, transmission mounts, etc. overlap in various places.

Don't remove the air conditioner pump or the power steering pump. Use bungy cords to hold them out of the way. Don't remove the lines from the air conditioner pump! If you haven't converted to R134 yet, after you get the fresh engine in is a good time to do it. Autozone has kits. You'll need a 90 degree port for the low side (brackets are in the way for a straight port). I got one from NAPA. If there is still R12 in the system you'll need to have it evacuated by a garage before installing the kit.

Unless you're sure the clutch is good, replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. If the clutch surface of the flywheel is in bad shape, have it machined. You don't want to get your engine in and discover you have to replace the clutch because it can't handle the increased power of the fresh engine.

Be sure to use a clutch alignment tool when installing the pressure plate. When mating the engine with the transmission use the load balancer on the hoist to change the angle of the engine to match the transmission. Don't be afraid to rock the engine and move it around to get it started, but once it is started don't force the engine and transmission together with the bolts. When everything is right, the engine will slide into the transmission (a very gratifying event).

Did I mention take lots of pictures and make lots of notes as you go?

HTH

 

wow, wasnt expecting this much info. thanks! i did pick up a clutch at napa today, i'll let you know how things went on Monday. again, thanks for the input.

 

well, the engine is ready to stab into the truck. everything seemed to go pretty well. ...that is, til i got to the egr valve. i think its toast. the carbon build up is so hard its like metal. i tried my best to get it cleaned out but no luck. for the cost of a new egr valve i can buy a new weber carb. anyone had any luck doing this?

 

Just joined the forum today. As it happens I'm doing the exact same thing to my 92 B2200. The info you have already gotten is good stuff. Especially the pan gasket. Throw it away. Use RTV for the splash plate and pan. I unbolted the AC compressor and set it aside. The Power steering pump is a bear so left it on. Unbolted the intake manifold and bungeed it out of the way. Unbolted from the tranny and out it came. It was such a hassle because of the hard to reach bell housing bolts not to mention the complicated exhaust manifold and pre cat that I decided to pull the 5speed tranny and bolt everything together on the work bench. Hung all the exhaust and the PS pump, alternator, starter etc. Dropped the tranny crossmember and the whole thing slipped right in. Should fire it off tomorrow. Am switching to Amsoil gear oil in the tranny and diff. Will break in the engine with regular oil then switch to synthetic in the engine. Sure works good in my Dodge diesel. Oh, the long block had a couple extra threaded holes in it that I didn't need. I discovered that they don't make metric pipe threads. That engine and presumably all jap engines use British tapered pipe threads for plugs and such.....