b2200 not starting
#1
10-21-2011, 03:38 PM
b2200 not starting
I wonder if anyone can offer any advice on why my 1988 b2200 isn't starting.
I had some exhaust work done on it a couple days ago (new muffler, etc) and it ran great after that. The next day however, I started the truck and it petered out after running for a few seconds. Then it wouldn't start again ... naturally I thought I was out of gas, but filling the tank didn't help. It's not a charging issue as it turns over fine and obviously has power, but it just won't fire.
Anything obvious? Would the exhaust work somehow have something to do with it? It was running perfectly fine before that (and after for a day or so).
I had some exhaust work done on it a couple days ago (new muffler, etc) and it ran great after that. The next day however, I started the truck and it petered out after running for a few seconds. Then it wouldn't start again ... naturally I thought I was out of gas, but filling the tank didn't help. It's not a charging issue as it turns over fine and obviously has power, but it just won't fire.
Anything obvious? Would the exhaust work somehow have something to do with it? It was running perfectly fine before that (and after for a day or so).
#2
11-02-2011, 06:17 PM
I also have a 1988 B2200, 17 years now, just rebuilt the engine 2 weeks ago. I doubt very much that your no start problem is related to the exhaust work.
These trucks, as they age, frequently develop ignition switch failure (the electrical part), for the "run" mode. This circuit is completely separate from the "start" mode, so the engine can still spin fine and not start. When it's not working, and key in the "run" position, use a DC voltmeter (0-20 volt setting) or a test light to test for voltage at the positive side of the coil. And pull off the lower steering column cover and test the terminals that should be live in the "run" mode, believe there will be three.
This is a pretty common issue, and best place to start.
Another easy thing is to pull out the 10mm socket and remove four hex head screws of the upper timing cover, and ensure that the timing belt is not broken. Someone can crank the engine while you watch with the cover off.
After that exercise, spraying in some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carburetor throat and trying to start is a great way to do the next phase of troubleshooting: isolate whether the issue is spark/electrical related or fuel related. If it runs, even a few seconds or rough after spraying in, then it's fuel-related. Otherwise spark electrical. I'm cussboy at *** dot net
These trucks, as they age, frequently develop ignition switch failure (the electrical part), for the "run" mode. This circuit is completely separate from the "start" mode, so the engine can still spin fine and not start. When it's not working, and key in the "run" position, use a DC voltmeter (0-20 volt setting) or a test light to test for voltage at the positive side of the coil. And pull off the lower steering column cover and test the terminals that should be live in the "run" mode, believe there will be three.
This is a pretty common issue, and best place to start.
Another easy thing is to pull out the 10mm socket and remove four hex head screws of the upper timing cover, and ensure that the timing belt is not broken. Someone can crank the engine while you watch with the cover off.
After that exercise, spraying in some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carburetor throat and trying to start is a great way to do the next phase of troubleshooting: isolate whether the issue is spark/electrical related or fuel related. If it runs, even a few seconds or rough after spraying in, then it's fuel-related. Otherwise spark electrical. I'm cussboy at *** dot net
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