Further to my previous thread:

Thanks all for replying...but the saga continues..I know I feel really stupid..

The wire that is not attached at the other end is coming from the alternator NOT the starter motor. The wire is Yellow with a BLUE srtipe NOT green. I put my tester on it last night and it is permanent live.

I have looked through the haynes manual and I think it should connect to the starter motor but maybe not...I dont want to connect to the wrong place as it is live. When we turn the key to start I can hear a relay click and the voltage on the yellow and blue wire drops to about 9volts... The enginge does not attempt to turn over.

Any idea's please help...

Mark

 

The wiring diagram shows the yellow/blue wire feeding the ignitor and coil. A starter wire should not have 12 volts all the time,only 12 volts in the start position. Black/green or black/red will be the starter solonoid wire color.

 

Interesting, on another forum some one has told me it should be connected to the electric choke!!!

 

Wire from back of alternator connects to electric choke on carburetor. I'm sure.

 

Yes it does but it connects directly to the choke with no pushon connection. As he states that wire has 12 volts on it it cannot be the choke wire feeding it as chokes do not produce voltage. It also will not cause the starter to not engage.

 

The wiring diagrams for these trucks do not cover this wire. I have the Clymer, Haynes, and an online manual and none of them show this wire. There is another yellow/blue stripe wire at the coil that comes out of the wiring harness.

The only yellow/blue stripe wire attached to the alternator goes to the choke on the carburetor. The wire attaches to the alternator on the lower left side. It should only be hot when the ignition is turned on. If the other end is not attached to the choke, and it is a factory carb, then it must have either been cut off or has broken off. If it is a Weber carb, it should have a push on connector. This wire provides current to a heating coil inside the choke mechanism that allows you to hit the gas pedal to shut down the high idle.

HTH

 

Yellow/blue wire from mazda factory manual = fuel pump cut relay

 

Sorry, I thought we were talking about a carbureted model.

Carbureted models don't have a fuel pump cut relay. That would be a fuel injected model, and the wire would definitely go to the fuel pump cut relay in that case.

 

Nuts, there is a yellow/blue wire going to a fuel pump cut solenoid as shown in the wiring diagram for a carbureted model. It would have to be an automatic model with the fuel pump in the fuel tank, though, as the manual transmission model has a mechanical fuel pump located on the right rear of the head.

However, that fuel pump cut solenoid yellow/blue wire does not come from the alternator. The yellow/blue wire from the alternator goes directly to the carburetor choke heater. It isn't wrapped in with the wiring harness. I know, because I have one. When I converted to the Weber, I had to cut it off of the choke on the stock carb and put a female spade connector on it.