I picked up this truck so that I can eventually put a 13b or sr20det in. It currently has a few issues I want to address first.

I'll start with the motor. On cold/a little warm starts, something squeals. The belt looks perfect, has good tension and from what I can tell, the only place it could slip is the alternator because everything else has teeth that the belt's teeth sit in. Also, it constantly has the oil light on. It has enough oil, and I check it religiously, but why is it still on? Could it be lack of pressure? Maybe a bad pump? Also, the douche before me installed a "custom" exhaust. It's pretty bad. It has a motorcycle tip (he said it needed the backpressure. WTF?!?) and it exits right behind the driver side door with only one hanger after the cat. What's the easiest way to install a hanger without welding (I don't have access to one) and without drilling the frame. I was thinking for a cheap fix, some wire coat hanger wrapped around it since it will be under the body, no one will see it. Lame, I know. I'm also having issues going into reverse (I also read that there is a "reverse lock" and you have to return the stick to the middle and then push the clutch down? Some info on this please lol)

Next up is the gas tank door. The douche before me lost the key and now it won't lock. Is there a delete for this?

Next up is how to lower and lift it. I saw on some other forums these older trucks use tension rods. Wtf is a tension rod? I've got no idea. As long as we are on the subject of suspension, the rear shocks are blown (it's lowered on blocks) and are bushingless. Which sucks, but understandable after all the other issues I've fixed.

Next is the body. This kid tried to shave a lot of things (THANK GOD HE DIDN'T TRY TO SHAVE THE HANDLES!!!) and failed miserably. I'm trying to locate some good badges, if anyone knows where I could find some that would be awesome .
Also, I have a small spot of body cancer... what's the best way to fix this without cutting and welding because it's in the bed and I don't want to deal with the corrugation lol.

Next up is interior. It's the bench seat version (apparently they did buckets too? I'm going to see if i can pull my bench and see if I have the rails for buckets). I am also trying to locate some of the stereo equipment. I'm not sure if the stereo took up that entire space, and am honestly doubting it did, so I'm assuming there was a plastic spacer or something.


Thank you so much for reading, and if you have any information at all, it would be greatly appreciated. Pics will be coming soon once I get this canopy off >.<

 

Stock didn't use belts with "teeth".

Unscrew the pressure sender, pull wire out of middle of distributor so it doesn't start, crank a few seconds, see if oil gushes out of the hole. If it does, temporarily screw in a mechanical guage and read the oil pressure.

On my 1988 B2200 the gas door lock uses the same key as doors and ignition.

You might get more responses if you don't call others names like douches.

 

I'm not sure how to explain the belt. One side is smooth and the other has valleys and hills. I checked the belts (yes, plural... I was always told these were serpentine?) and the one leading to the alternator is so loose, I can move it roughly one inch before I start to feel pressure. OOPS!

About the oil issue... Jiffy Lube said it was a bad pump. If the pump was bad, I wouldn't be getting pressure at all and after 400 miles my engine would have been blown LONG ago, so I was thinking of changing the sending unit and see if that fixes it. If not, then obviously the pump.

The guy before (sorry about the name calling, but he's really kind of screwed me on this truck...) said the gas tank used a different key. I never tried the normal key. I'll see if it works

 

So the ignition key works. Awesome. I saw that I'm missing the piece that it locks to, which is awesome because I don't have to replace it all now