1987 B2200 check engine light
#1
1987 B2200 check engine light
Hello everyone just completed my engine rebuild and it runs great but I still need to smog it and before the rebuild I had a code 16 and 45, now the battery was disconnected for a while so I don't think these codes are from before the build anyways I drove it today and just like before when I hold the gas pedal in a steady position the light comes on and as soon as I move it, it turns off now I checked for codes again and now I only get the 16 which is the EGR position sensor also wanted to say I have not driven it more then 3 miles so far but will take it to work tomorrow and put some miles on it. Now I have swapped the EGR, ECU and the duty solenoid valve so far nothing any suggestions anybody?
#2
I've got a 1988 B2200, and not aware of any engine code numbers. But I do believe you (how do you read such codes????). That EGR sensor does sense that the EGR valve is not in the correct position; it's quite common for the EGR valves on these trucks to get stuck. Because new ones are quite pricey (about $225), most take the EGR valve off and knock loose the hard carbon and clean up the valve. You can test the valve on the car (or off) with a hand vacuum pump; while idling, pulling a vacuum on the EGR nipple should cause very rough running or stalling. When off the truck, you should be able to see the EGR valve move, and re-seat due to the spring when vacuum is released. In the 15 years I've had mine I've had the EGR valve stick closed one, and stick open once, had to clean out each time.
The EGR sensor itself is likely not "bad".
The EGR sensor itself is likely not "bad".
#3
Hello I have cleaned the EGR and I also know the passage is not clogged and yes I have applied vacuum to it as well and yes the engine does run rough.
Now the Mazda EGR has a sensor on it to let the system know what position it's in, I guess I am suspecting that either I have a bad wire or connector since I have swapped out EGR'S already with the spare parts I have and same results. To check your trouble codes you need to find the connector on the passenger side near the firewall that is green and ground it after you have done this turn the ignition to the on setting and watch the check engine light it will start to flash, when the light come on and pauses for a second it counts as a 10 value when it flashes fast then count them as one's value so if you have two long flashes and then six fast one's you count that as a 26 now mine is a California model with a carb. check out www.troublecodes.net/mazda/ for the trouble codes it's a generic list but it is OBD1 after all, so all Mazda's were the same I am sure.
Now the Mazda EGR has a sensor on it to let the system know what position it's in, I guess I am suspecting that either I have a bad wire or connector since I have swapped out EGR'S already with the spare parts I have and same results. To check your trouble codes you need to find the connector on the passenger side near the firewall that is green and ground it after you have done this turn the ignition to the on setting and watch the check engine light it will start to flash, when the light come on and pauses for a second it counts as a 10 value when it flashes fast then count them as one's value so if you have two long flashes and then six fast one's you count that as a 26 now mine is a California model with a carb. check out www.troublecodes.net/mazda/ for the trouble codes it's a generic list but it is OBD1 after all, so all Mazda's were the same I am sure.
#6
Check engine light
Hello everyone well I found my problem and this is why, always check the simple things first. Well I guess the previous owner did not want the EGR to work so they put a BB in the line to block the vacuum so anyways all is good now.
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