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Removed alarm and now i cant start the car

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  #1  
Old 11-10-2014, 07:04 AM
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Default Removed alarm and now i cant start the car

Hi


I got a Mazda Mx3 who had a Cargard 350S alarm installed.


I did not have the remotes, so when I tried to start the car it cranked slowly - It where the alarm who got the car to crank slowly, because after


I removed the alarm it cranks normally BUT now I do not have any CEL/ check Engine light when I turn key. All the other lamps lights normaly up.


I have removed the alarm, and spliced the two wires who where cut back together.


But I think that there is missing a wire, but I am unable to find out witch the alarm where only connected to another wire at the ignition key, but it where taped into, I just removed the wire to the alarm from that wire.


What am I missing?
 
  #2  
Old 11-10-2014, 10:13 AM
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It sounds like you have not found all the remnants of the aftermarket alarm. The PCM is located in the center dash below the radio. Remove the lower left dash panel and check for an aftermarket module or wire you may have missed. I think the PCM connectors come out the passenger side. Check under the hood for aftermarket wiring/etc. If they used scotch locks it could be a broken wire. Recheck all fuses.
 
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by hixx
It sounds like you have not found all the remnants of the aftermarket alarm. The PCM is located in the center dash below the radio. Remove the lower left dash panel and check for an aftermarket module or wire you may have missed. I think the PCM connectors come out the passenger side. Check under the hood for aftermarket wiring/etc. If they used scotch locks it could be a broken wire. Recheck all fuses.


Hi


Tanks for your help


Today I come a bit closer - I managed to get it running, but I where hard to start, It seems that it is getting a lot of fuel. I where able to start the engine by holding the gas pedal down and then it fired up.


BUT - when its getting warm it is running poorly.
I am able to start it again, but it is going down in rpm but it keeps ruinning.


and the check engine light is still not on at any time?!?


If I take the negative lead of the battery and press the brake for 15 sek I am unable to start it. Then I need to crank it a lot of times before it starts, after that I am able to start it and it running poorly again.


Is it the ECU? If its broken I guess that I where unable to start the car?


I have found a manual at www.echostar.pl/~seed/mazda.pdf
If I check the ECU connections (page2-F143)
It all checks good, but not the 1D connection - I always get 0V
And the possible solutions are
-Main relay (FUEL INJ relay) malfunction
- Open circuit in wiring from ignition switch to data link connection terminal +B (What does that mean?)
- Open circuit in connection from data link connector terminal MEN (what does that mean?)


I cant figure out why I do not have that check engine light...but I am able to start the damm car?!?


If the main fuel inj relay where broken I guess that I could not start it and have it running....
I do not make sence!
 
  #4  
Old 11-11-2014, 02:49 PM
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The fact that when you hit the brake pedal a few times and it then takes longer to start means the engine is running extremely rich ( too much fuel or not enough air) By hitting the brakes you empty the brake booster of stored vacuum which it has to replenish when you crank the engine. It could be a lot ofg things like the MAF. Try unplugging it. Check the rubber boot from the aircleaner to throttlebody for cracks. The fact that it has no check engine light when the key is in the on position but not running could point to a bad PCM but you have a ton of tracing to do before you condemn it.
 
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:47 AM
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HI


I have tried to unplug the MAF and start the engine, it where the same running poorly.
I try to check for leaks later today, and also clean the MAF with a electronic cleaner, and let I dry completely before I try to start the car.


I also have noticed that I do not have room light in the cabin, but there is power at the room fuse in the fuse box - I am able to turn on the separate lights in the cabin light, but not able to use the switch in the middle to turn the room light on.


There is light at the ignition switch when I open the door, and also light in the keyhole at the door

There is also no power at the cigarette/lighter thing...


Hmm...
 
  #6  
Old 11-12-2014, 07:06 AM
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Hi


I just noticed something more - under the dash there where a relay marked "H270" what are that relay for? (It has a burned connector)


See picture below "faulty relay.jpg"


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fcq28q3up...3D4Tx2Vda?dl=0


I have got a universal relay and soldered that in - but id did not help.
(picture Repaired relay.jpg)


The relay do not click when I turn the key on.
I have also tried to install the old relay, and make new connections but the same issue - no click and still no engine light


Can that be the cause to my problems? I have tried to find out what the relay are for, but I am where unable to find any information about the relays under the dash.
 

Last edited by perjmolsen; 11-12-2014 at 07:10 AM.
  #7  
Old 11-12-2014, 10:14 AM
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The main relay is bolted to the ECU bracket behind the radio. The relay is mounted on the lower passenger side of the bracket. Remove your ECU, remove the 4 phillips screws holding the top cover and inspect it for burnt components/circuitboard. You can usually sniff test it once opened and tell if something burnt. The relay might be the main relay taken off of the ECU bracket.
 
  #8  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:32 AM
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Hi


Sorry for the late answer, but I have been busy faultfinding.
I have found out of what I taught where a CEL/MIL light where a indicator for missing washer fluid


I have made a wire so that I can read the fault codes from the ECU, and found a fault code 03.


I have trouble fixing the error code 03 -Camshaft position sensor SGC signal


I have been following the troubleshooting diagram here www.echostar.pl/~seed/mazda.pdf at(PageF2-77)


All checks good until step 5
"Is there approx. 5V at distributor harness side connector terminal B (3 pin) (with distributor disconnected)"


I get 0V at terminal B at the 3 pin connector, and if I read the faultfinding diagram that's OK? (if there where 5V I need to replace the distributor right?)- and then I go to step 6:


"is there approx. 5v at ECM terminal 3G (with distributor connector disconnected)"
YES there is 5V at ECM terminal 3G


And if there is then I need to check for short /open wiring from distributor to terminal 3G


I have checked all the wiring in the 6pin connector to the ECM all checks out good.
But how to I check the 3 Pin connector?


I have also tried a new ECM because that I have hoped that where the cause, but the new ECM gives me the same error code.
 
  #9  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:37 PM
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Sounds like the distributor to me. You don't say what year the car is so i assume it has the cam sensor in the distributor.
 
  #10  
Old 11-19-2014, 01:22 PM
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Hi


Its a Mazda Mx3 from 1994




I think that the cam sensor is inside the distributor


So I think that I need a new distributor and cam sensor


Is there a good place to get it on line? I live in Denmark and second hand parts are rare to a mx3
 


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