Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums

Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums (https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/)
-   Mazda MPV (https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-mpv-17/)
-   -   97 MPV dies then starts (https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-mpv-17/97-mpv-dies-then-starts-23261/)

mankaw 06-27-2010 02:00 PM

97 MPV dies then starts
 
'97 MPV 210000 miles

It started quitting on her a couple of weeks ago. Not really like fuel running out, just instantly dying. Finally had to have it towed. It had no fuel pressure at all. I couldn't get a spark from a plug wire.
I have replaced:
distributor, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel relay. EGi relay, plugs, and now
It will start and idle forever.
I let it sit in the garage and it idled for 32 minutes. She left to try it and it dies about 2 miles away. Started back after a minute. Died again. Doesn't seem to have any power but I may not have the timing set right yet.
I'm at a loss. I tried 2 code readers and they say error- can't connect.
I want to try counting the CE flashes if someone can tell me how to do this.
Really at a loss of what to do next.

Crank sensor checks ok.

mankaw 06-27-2010 07:07 PM

ok
 
Ok finally got a code reader to work. says speed sensor. is that enough to make the vehicle quit?? is it something easy to change out?

mankaw 06-28-2010 08:40 AM

codes
 
The codes I got were:
P0725
p1790
p1792

If anyone can steer me in the right direction I would appreciate the help.

3mpv09 07-09-2010 04:31 PM

MPV dies and starts with codes
 
My take on the codes first, the 0725 speed issue would be the speed sensor but I have a '96 and can't find a speed sensor reference other than crankshaft position sensor in the book.
The other 1790 and 1792 should be transmission codes and likely a result of the error detected by the 0725.

The fact that it idles would seem to confirm that the crank sensor is ok.

But from the symptom side it sure sounds like your timing belt has slipped a tooth or two. If you can get it started again, pull the two prong water temp sensor connector on the front top center of the engine-its right behind the upper radiator hose connection to the manifold just left of center as you look under the hood as it is running-this will disable the computer timing so you can accurately set the initial timing. If it dies, manually turn the crankshaft to top dead center mark and pull the distributer cap to see if it is pointing at #1 cyl (closest spark wire to the intake air plenem) or #4 180deg away.
If it is not, then you have jumped time and you may be able to get it running again by moving the distributer shaft one tooth, but you still will have no power. Other than that, the next step will be to tear down enough to pull the timing belt covers and check the timing marks on the cam. But do step one first, to see if checking/replacing the speed sensor does anything. Hope this helps

mankaw 07-31-2010 12:13 PM

After setting the timing, the van runs perfect, strong, idles smooth. But even though it ran 32 minutes in the garage, it still quits when driving. It starts right back almost as soon as you pull over. It's got every sign of something getting hot like a relay. Fuel pump relay changed, egi relay changed. Fuel pump new, distributor, plugs also I beginning to suspect the ecu. haven't got new codes yet.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:35 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands