99 Mazda Millenia S
 

Hello i come here for help :)

My son just bought a used 99 Mazda Millenia S we went for a tune up and found out we hade to replace the # 3,4 Coil (but replaced all Spark plugs)
once we fixed that issue we got another Code P1540 It has something to do with the traction control. i have been reading the forum and we saw a few options
#1 pulling the TC from the computer of the car but it will also effect the ABS

#2 Replace the ABV Solenoid Valve (Vent)

i Also see that this issue can drive a person crazy

Some one please help My Son

I have same issue
 

Hi,

Did u get this issue resolved? How much are they charging you for an ABV vent solenoid. When i used the computer to show me the code it read P1526 which is the ABV vent solenoid.
Let me know ..

Thanks

where are you getting this info from? cause it's WRONG. 1525(KJ03-18-741A) is vent. 1526(KJ02-18-741A) is vacuum. HUGE difference. both cost the same-75.51, tasca mazda website=52.10, ymmv. however, if i were you, i would get both and replace at the same time.

I would have to disagree with you. I have two sources for P1526 being a vent solenoid.
1) http://members.cox.net/sciberpunkt/tech/obd/
P1525 - Lysholm air bypass valve (ABV) vacuum solenoid circuit malfunction
P1526 - Lysholm air bypass valve (ABV) vent solenoid circuit malfunction

2) I used the computer myself and it said "ABV vent Solenoid P1526" at a fast speed and hot day.

Anyways, Is it easy to replace both? and do I have to change anything else like hoese and tees?

Thanks

disagree all you want. i am looking at the mazda FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, for 99 millenia, which we have 2 of. section 01-01B-7, 'P1525 ABV solenoid valve(vent) open or short'. P1526 ABV solenoid valve(vacuum) open or short. so, the mazda fsm(9999-95-058B-99) which i bought in 99 when we bought our first millenia is wrong, and all your sources are not? i dont think so. but hey, it's your car, so whatever. both of ours run fine, and i have already dealt with 1525/26/40 problems.

UPDATE: after asking other members to look, my fsm is misprinted. checking the diagnosis section confirms that 1525 is the vacuum, etc. however, i ALWAYS replace both vacuum and vent, since i ohm them to check, and they are always both bad. also, they may ohm ok when cool, but when hot they fail.

True. BTW a mazda dealership told me that it takes an hour to change the vent solenoid and it will cost me 99 bux for labor. Part costs about 75. So looking at almost 200 with taxes. And if I change vacumm as well it will go toward 300 bux. Pretty costly.

My question to you: Is it easy to replace myself (Like a do it your self) ? And if so, do you happen to know where I can find the scematics online?

Thanks for your help! Really appreciate it!

they are easy to change, depending on your mechanical ability. the only hard part is how they are attached to the bracket. you can see them on the bracket to the driver's side of the egr valve. iirc, a 12mm and a 10mm socket/wrench is all you need. when you see the solenoid, then you can see how they are attached. if you have the new one, you can just break off the old one. you have to be careful removing the vacuum lines, because they are all welded on there. i try to rotate the vacuum line to break it free before pulling on them. when going from passenger side to driver, the second solenoid is vent, the 4th is vacuum. vacuum is more common problem, but to be safe, you should ohm them. if they are over 30, or 0, they are bad. also, resistance changes dramatically when they get hot, and that rear bank gets a lot of heat.

O sweet..ye my neighbour was some sort of car mechanic beofre and offered to help me out but was asking me to find out some details first....
So the solenoids are under the top part of the engine (which includes ABV and CAC bypass actuators) right?
Is that top part easy to slip off with the 10/12 mm wrench?

After I break off the solenoid, I connect the new one and Do I need to solder the vacumm lines back on?

vacuum lines are not soldered, they just push on. however, because of the age, the plastic on the solenoids become brittle, and the lines will be stuck to the solenoids. i use pliers to first rotate the line on the solenoid to break it loose before i pull them off. it is easy to break the connection end on a solenoid. some of the lines connect solenoids to each other, and if you break one that you are not changing, the car will be down for a couple of weeks.
the connections/wiring harness and the vacuum lines have all taken a "set" from age and heat cycles. some are brittle, and may break. you should be prepared to replace some of the vacuum line. there is approx 21 feet of vacuum line on this motor

I love the way you never apologized to him for telling him he was WRONG, when he was 10/10 and you were a FAT ZERO%.

Yes, your book was wrong, but that doesn't make you correct.