2001 Millenia S
 

New to the Millenia S, purchased for daughter.

Car is missing and has random fire to the coils, dealer says it needs a ECM. Has anyone ever replaced one and if so did you go with a used one? or reman one?

Thanks

ecm? holy cow. dealer has you by the wallet. 0300 is random miss, is that what the code is? any other codes? i would first go with plugs. 60k is recommended change interval. the most common problem with plugs is the idiot that buys some bs plug, like iridium, or some other that the parts guy at autozone convinces them to buy. afaik, only the ngk 3741 comes properly gapped(.7-.8mm, .028-.032in). all the rest have way too wide(1.1mm, .044in). and no matter WHAT anyone tells you, a precious metals tip plug SHOULD NEVER be regapped. if it dont come from the factory with the proper gap, dont use it. the second most common problem is that if the car is taken to a shop to have work done, and one of these was to change the plugs, the right bank never gets done. you get charged for it, but because of the labor involved, the shop doesnt change them. so, if your car has more than 60k on it, i would suspect plugs. wrong plug/gap is classic random miss.
next would be coils. these suckers are pricey. you got 6. with discount, about 175/each. you can find them on ebay, i have gotten brand new for as little as 5 bucks. but you gotta jump fast(we have 2 99s', i have learned). early coils(95-96) are 4 pin, later are 3 pin, either will work on your car. when the gap is too big, it puts a trememdous strain on the coils, and if the coil is weak, you get a miss. also, over time, the valve cover gasket leaks oil into the wells, and the oil can short out the coil, so random miss.
then there is the possibility of bad gas. google top tier fuel, and stay with those brands. your car should run 91 octane or better. it has a knock sensor, so you can use lower grade, but performance will be down. if you go to mom and pop places for gas, there is a good possibility you will get water in the fuel. gas will float on water, so the pickup in the tank will draw water with the fuel.
your biggest problem with this car is maintenance. there is not a lot of people who have experience with this car, and the dealer is not a good place to start. the fact that they want to sell you an ecu tells me that they are fishing. you will end up spending a lot of money and time, and you will be paying them to learn about your car. you will pay the highest prices for parts and labor, and in the end, will not have any better result that a good independent, just much higher cost. just because they are the dealer, does NOT mean they have any experience with this car. it is a very low production model, and probably no one there has worked on them, and if they have, it is very limited.
bottom line is, if you cannot do the required work/maintenance on this car yourself, you should get rid of it. feel free to pm me and i will send you my phone nr, if you need more assistance

To add to what keninn said,

I reviewed the P0300 error in the Millenia service manual. There are basically 7 steps that should be followed to check out a P0300 error code.

1) Is ignition system OK?

2) Is ignition timing within spec?

3) Is crankshaft position sensor air gap OK?

4) Is fuel system (LH and RH) OK?

5) Is Exhaust Gas Recirculation system OK?

6) Is compression at all cylinders normal?

If all 6 were OK, then they move onto #7.

7) Erase diagnostic trouble code from memory. Is same code number present after rechecking? If "Yes", then replace the ECM. If "NO", then it's just a temporary system malfunction.

If I were you, I'd like to see proof that the dealer checked items 1 - 6. I very much doubt that they did.

i would not pay attention to what he^ posted. this is useless information, and exactly what the dealer is doing, reading from a manual that has very little practical use. also, both^ and the dealer have no experience with the 2.3 engine. again, you will be paying for someone to learn about your car. in the real world, start with the spark plugs. most likely the right bank has never been changed, and if they have, the wrong ones are in there. the biggest mistake with new plugs is the gap. too wide a gap will make the coil work a lot harder, and with the heat back there, plus oil in the well, can lead to the coil(s) failing early. also, with the larger gap, the engine is way more susceptible to missfire. one problem with just changing plugs, the right bank will take a couple hours, much more if this is your first time. a LOT of stuff has to come off just to get at them. add in the time needed to clean the wells, chase the threads, and other small jobs, and it becomes a real chore. so, when i do them i also swap out the coils with known good ones. otherwise you may be doing it all over again. if you dont have another set of coils, swap the left bank coils, but mark them. the left bank will take about 30 min to change out

keninn,

Thanks again for your vote of confidence. :rolleyes:

Item #1 to check (ignition system) is essentially what keninn is referring to. Have all the plugs been checked? Changed? Etc. I may not have had any experience with the 2.3L engine, but I've owned the 2.5L for 8 years, now. I've also had previous vehicles that have suffered QC issues with their ECM, so failure does and can occur. On one of my vehicles, I had to have the ECM replaced twice due to QC problems with the solder. The first time, was under warranty. The 2nd time was when a shop spent hours of diagnosis time - then concluded, that the ECM installed a few years earlier by the dealer had failed again. They installed an ECM manufactured by an aftermarket company, not GM, and I never had any more issues for the next 4 years or so that I owned it.

Thanks for all the information, really helpful. I purchased a used ECM from the local salvage yard LKQ A&R. So I plan to put new plugs and install the ECM and see what happens. Hopefully that will correct it, if not I will be checking codes.

I will let you guys no, the out come. Dealer mentioned a misfire on #6 but the coil was OK, I belive and a mass air flow code.

So I should use NGK 3741 plugs?

I won't comment on the specific part # for the plugs, since I don't own the 2.3L - as noted. However, regarding the MAF code, it may just be the MAF needs cleaning. It's located within the rubber intake tube. It can be located by looking for the screen area along with the small wires. Don't touch the wires when cleaning it. They sell spray for Mass Air Flow cleaning at Autozone - or, any parts store. I've found it under the CRC brand. It only runs about $4.00 a can. Use only the spray to clean the MAF - no scrubbing, no wiping, etc.

I'm looking forward to your update on the ECM - and, if that resolves the issue. New ECMs are over $1,000 from the dealer. Plenty of them on eBay for $100 + shipping, though. Good to hear you found one locally. If you don't need or use it, you can always sell it.

Thanks

Just info I did find a company Eu Spec that sells and remaufactures ECM's, if you send them yours they will check it repair and check all other circuits for around $356 with shipping both ways included, which is not bad.

I will replace ECM and plugs Saturday.

you wasted your money on the ecm(pcm). if you go to the other forums, you will not see any posts about a bad pcm, but you will see a whole bunch of posts about plugs, and coils. also, NEVER accept what someone says the codes were, you should get WHAT code it was, not what they say the code was for. case in point, when our black car got it's first codes, it was 0170/73, scanned at autozone. they interpreted it as the mas. second was o2 sensors. what it actually was, a broke tee, so it was running lean. again, if you check the other forums, you will see a LOT of posts about broke tees/vacuum lines associated with the 0170/73, but no one fixing those codes with mas or o2 sensors.
also, and you will find this out, the pcm is a bitch to change. it is behind the radio, but in such a posiltion that the harness is really difficult to unplug. be prepared to remove the side panels of the console to gain access to the harness connectors, and even then it will test your mettle. i would first change plugs/swap coils, and clean the wells. here is a trick i have done that works very well. when you have the plug out, clean the well. i like brake cleaner for this, it dries with no residue. the inside of the well has to be squeaky clean. with your finger, you can feel the groove where the valve cover gasket is. take some good silicon sealant, and rub it all around where the gasket is. i like hylomar for this, but any sealant that is oil and hi heat will work. i have done this to both cars, and no more oil in the wells.
a miss on #6 would throw a p0306 code, not 0300. again, you should find out what codes were thrown, not the interpretation. and, afaik, the ngk 3741 is the only plug that comes with the proper gap. beware of any plug with a -11 after the part number of the plug. for example, the old number for the 3741 is PZFR5F. however, there is also PZFR5F-11, which is used on some acuras and bmw. the -11 means 1.1mm gap
a general rule of thumb, is to attack the lower number codes first, sometimes fixing the lower number codes will also fix other codes. this is very true on the 2.3. i would bet that the right bank plugs are original, and long overdue

Thanks for the info and tip.

You are right about the codes, this is the first time I have taken a car to the dealer to be checked and we will see if they were right or not. They said the ECM had a ground and the coil was good it just was not getting the signal from the ECM.

The previous owner said he had a mechanic change all the plugs in the back and put a new coil, we will see if that is true or not.

It was tight getting the ECM out and I am sure it will be tougher getting the connectors plug back in.

I will let you know the out come.

Thanks for the info, good stuff.

Ok Keeninn you were right, new NGK plugs and the used ECM and same issue still skipping. P0300 code, unplug the coil on #6 and no change in the engine. I going to pull the plug back out check compression and swap coils and see what happens.

Twincycles,

Ironically, my Milly 2.5L experienced some codes over the past few weeks. P0300, P1402 and P0500. These codes followed some work that I had done regarding pulling my intake manifold, taking it to a machine shop and have them put the part through their "dishwasher" to get the carbon out of the intake. I had used various methods a few times before to remove the carbon, but felt it wasn't 100%. I would get a P0400 code for my EGR prior to having the intake manifold cleaned.

Well, after the intake was reinstalled, I had an intake leak. I had to pull it a 2nd time - but, this time, I used some Permatex Super Tack with the intake gasket to ensure there wouldn't be any leaks - even after proper torquing. Well, during this 2nd process, it appears that I had mis-routed one or two vacuum lines. I was out of time and patience, so I took it to a local shop to have them take over.

My issues with the P0300, P0500 and P1402 were related to the EGR valve, which required replacing. On top of the MSRP price of the EGR valve, I paid about $300 in labor for diagnostics, R&R of the EGR valve, and the re-tracing of the vacuum lines on my Millenia. I picked it up from the shop last evening - was purring like a baby.

I had even replaced the EGR valve with another used (but known working) EGR valve, with little change in my situation. So, the majority of my issues were caused by those vacuum lines. Plus, I thought my 2.5L had a lot of vacuum lines (21 - 25 feet) - but, the Millenia S has somewhere around 31' of lines.

Regarding your situation, at least you experienced with a cheap ECU - and, didn't get burned by having to buy one for over $1,000 from the dealership, had they done the work.

Not looking good sa far, pulled the #6 plug and 0 compression, want even move the needle, pulled plug next to it #4 I belive, and had 180 pounds of compression.

I have filled the cylinder with oil to see if the rings got stuck from all the gas being sprayed into the cyclinder with no fire, and will somehow unstuck themselves, I guess the valves could be partially open also, since I have 0..nothing not even 1 pound. This is not looking good at all.

ut oh. go back a bit, what is the history of the car? did you buy it this way? or was it running good, and then it whammied?

it was skipping when I bought the car, the previous owner said last time it acted this way he replaced a coil. He had the time belt replaced back in Feb of 2009 and it just started this about a month ago.

I drove the car home and it idles rough but ran rather good goning doen the road, but lacked power, I drove it about 5 miles to the house easy, then drove it up to the dealership hoping they could hook up to their machine and give me a quick fix, like coil or something easy.

I sprayed oil in the cylinder and it seems to sit and not run down the cylinder wall, but it is hard to really tell. I just wonder if the previous owner drove it more than stated and washed the cylinder walls and the rings collasped or is it possible they got the timing slightly off and it burned a valve.

Even with oil sprayed into the cylinder I still get no compression on that cylinder.

Thinking of taking the valve cover off to see if something happend in there.

Do you have to take the intake off to remove the front valve cover?

pulling the valve cover is quite involved, and the intake does have to come off. i dont know if you will be able to tell much. if there is no compression, even if you do diagnose a bad valve, anything is going to be a big job. i hope you got it for a song, because the next tune is gonna cost. the resale on a millenia is zilch. we are going to drive our cars till they drop. you might start looking for a jdm engine, there are quite a few on ebay, and if you google japanese engines, a whole bunch of sites come up. one of my good friends had a shop, and he put in the jdm engines a lot. i also put one in my mitsubishi galant, and it was excellent, i would do it again in a heartbeat. in japan, it is illegal to put used parts on a car. also, each year, the taxes for a car increase so much that after a few years, it is cheaper to buy a new car. the japanese take really good care of their cars, and they dont drive them very much. the engines will have way less than 50k on them, and most of them in the 20k range. when i pulled the valve cover on the mitsu engine, the valve train looked brand new. i wouldnt get a usa engine, it wont be anywhere near as good a shape as a jdm. if i had to do a valve job on a 2.3, i would just get a used engine and install it, way less expensive, and way easier

Thanks for all the info.

It does not look good,and looks like a whole lot of work ahead. if I go with an engine what years could I put in there? only 2001 or 2002?

Does the engine come out the top on these or the bottom?

I paid 2100 for the car, its a shame because the car is in great shape in and out.

the engines are basically all the same. the 95-96 had some different sensors, coils, and intercooler connections. you cannot use the exh manifolds on the jdm, and your left bank exh pre cat may be ruined. engine comes out the top. i have never pulled a millenia engine. no offense, but 2100 on a millenia that needs an engine is high. and i bet the po knew the engine was bad. dunno about where you live, but here in texas, if the car wont pass state inspection, which means epa, too, i think you can get a refund. no way that car will pass with a dead cylinder.

check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...Q5fAccessories

this is engine AND transmission. it is NOT a 95-96. see the intercooler connection by the oil cap? that was changed on 97 and later, to the silicone coupling with clamps. the 95-96 had bolts, just like on the other end. so this is a 97-later engine. i think the transmission on the early cars also was not as good, and somewhere in it's life, mazda changed the transmission.
however, here again, i caution you. this car is fairly high maintenance. in both our cars, one we bought new in 99, the other used in 03(i think) i have changed out, in BOTH cars, at least once-motor mounts, exh man pre cats, axles(3 times in one car), seat heaters, p/s pump(only 1 car, but one of the WORST jobs i have ever done), radiators, serp belt tensioners, coils, one fuel injector, a/c amplifiers, steering column motors, visors(clamp bushings keep breaking, suckers cost over 100/ea), front and rear links, control arm bushings, rack boots, tie rod ends, ball joints, and lots of regular stuff like brakes, fluids, filters, tires, etc. but i think the car is very well made. i sell parts for bmw and mercedes, have been for over 25 years. i also worked on the line at a bmw dealer, and a couple of independents, before i went into parts. i think the millenia build quality is equal or better than bmw and mercedes. another testimonial to japanese car manufacturers. the exact opposite of the 626, which is built in the usa. we owned a 626, what a pile of crap. good design, lousy build quality. i also had a mitsubishi galant vr4, built in japan, and a gsx, built in america. same exact story. galant build was excellent, gsx was horrible.
the millenia has it problems, but if it has had good maintenance from the start, it will last a long time, and is a very good ride. you just have to be on top of things. like the ce lite, some of these idiots drive the car for years with the lite on, then complain about the car. or they listen to the parts guy at autozone, who knows absolutely nothing about the car. or, like you, they take the car to the dealer, who also knows nothing about the car, and get bad advice, and a really big bill. as before, i think that if you cannot do most of the work on the car yourself, dont get one. and if you have one, be very careful where you take it for service/repair.

swap vehicles
 

when you get this care running,DO NOT give it to your daughter.let her drive your car and you drive the millenia.its gonna eat your lunch in repairs and trying to get it running good again.especially after an engine swap.anything can happen and you may never figure it out. but good luck, i mean that..i paid 2200 for my 96 millenia s 2 years ago needing this and that but in great LOOKING condition,axles mainly why it was so cheap,ive put in about 1000 more so far but mainly maintenance.had mazda look at it for 500.they straightened out the vacum lines,change a few selonoids.tranny flush.once you figure it out its not so bad to keep running yourself,mainly vacume lines and checking selonoids...i carry a code reader with me at all times.even the weather changes screws it up alittle.its just not reliable enough for a young lady.

This quote has a bit of irony in it. I was getting my Millenia inspected for emissions this morning since all the sensors had finally set back up after the work that had been done on it. I was in the waiting room at the automotive shop and overheard the service advisor talking to the mechanic ... "how can you confuse a Mazda with a Mercedes". I felt like stepping out of the waiting room and asking the service advisor if he knew anything about the Millenia. :(

Additionally, I've read about BMW components and parts. Not sure how accurate it is, but do BWM water pumps have plastic blades? I seem to recall that this can be a common replaced part for a BMW - I may be wrong, again, though, just what I've read.

I'd be interested in seeing what kind of sales agreement was written for the sale, too. I know, here in Virginia, just having a sales agreement stating the the car is "As-Is" does not fully cover the seller. The agreement has to state "As-Is, Where-Is" to CYA the seller. I learned this the hard way. We sold a Dodge Stratus 8 years ago. I did a simple sales agreement. The guy didn't look the car over too good, but liked it and handed me the cashier's / bank check. He got it home to Maryland and his mechanic alerted him about the transmission leak. Needless to say, he put a stop payment on the check. We consulted with a lawyer for an hour and that's where I learned about the "As-Is, Where-Is" clause for our state. We ended up re-negotiating on the car's price because he wanted his mechanic to put in $1,700 transmission. I think I had to eat about $600 or $700 more off my price. But, I learned dearly about selling vehicles.

thanks for all the info, not sure what I am going to do with the car, try to sale and get some money back, or get another engine and sale, or repair this one and sale it.

The sad part is I can do the work, its just not something I really enjoy pulling engines on these models, too much stuff to take off and put back on.

Maybe I can retro an old chevy engine into...lol lol....

If you want to retro an old Chevrolet V-8 into something, this might be a better place to start:

http://www.worldinterestingfacts.com...rolet-Vega.jpg

Perfect I love it.....want to trade for a NICE Millenia...........

Thanks for the generous offer. You're too kind. While I do love my 2002 Millenia (non-S model), with 144,600 miles on it, I really think this might be my last Mazda. It's a great car, but there can be "flukey" things that pop up from time-to-time and some parts prices are atrocious - even using TascaParts.com. My Taurus was real cheap to own. $55.00 for an EGR valve vs. $265 for one from Mazda. Then, there's the whole issue about the value "plunging" for these vehicles. I though getting into an import (being assembled in Japan, etc.) was a good investment 8 years ago. Though, I don't have those same feelings today.

However, it's now driving real sweet. It would cost me too much to get rid of it.

In regards to using old Chevy motors in other cars, your comment sparked some memories. 30 years back, a friend did buy a Chevrolet Vega with the 283 c.i. Chevy engine in it. The car just had a 2-barrel carb, no headers - was basically just stock with the exception of some custom welded motor mounts. That lil' car would scream. Unfortunately, the drive shaft had been mated to the stock rear-end. Naturally, the stock rear end was just designed to be pushed by a 90 h.p., or so 4 cylinder engine, so it didn't handle the abuse it was taking.

If I were to perform any kind of engine placement in another vehicle, I think a nice 350 c.i. Chevy engine with a Holly carb, custom headers, etc. would go nicely into an older Jaguar. Now, that would be the perfect sleeper vehicle. Then again, putting such a combo into your Milly may not be such a far-off idea. :)

yah, right. 30 year old pos detroit iron. what can they do? check out this .8 sec 60 ft by japanese rotary power. it shut up all the v8 talkers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IANVL-4vz3c

Yenkoe Vega?
 

in drag racing, one of the times is your first 60 feet. this is printed on your time slip. a good 60 ft time is like 1.5-1.8 sec. an awesome time is 1.2 sec. .8 sec is like blazing fast. the v8 yahoos started to question the timer, equipment, yada, yada. and i dont care how good you look. .8 sec means the other car will be across the intersection before half your car gets past the white line at the beginning. and everyone will be laughing at you. hence the name, sleeper.

laughin in my sleep
 

that is impressive,but unless your a hot babe,its doesnt matter what you think about how i look.not much of a drag racer.i must be getting too old for speed.id rather cruise down the highway in a classic,i bleed 10w-30, 10w-40 in summer.it is true japan has higher standards and tighter tolerences.MUCH better workmanship thats for sure.my millenia looks/is better than any car ive ever had.the miller cycle is pretty awsome.its been in the 100's the past 2 months here and it was running a little funny, thats how i figure i had the wrong plugs.yesterday was 55 in the morning.man it ran great.alot of variables with the S model.cant wait till it cools down for awhile

2001 Millenia
 

After some tearing into the engine, and taking the valve cover off and turning the engine it was obvious that the cam lobes on cylinder 6 was not moving, that is when I discovered that the intake camshaft had broke clean into at cylinders 4 . It appears that it ran out of oil in those two areas and seized up.

Head is finally off, what a bear to get off, you almost have to take the car apart.

See pic if I posted it correctly.

Attachment 721

Misfire
 

Kennin, I realize this an old thread but hoping you see and respond. My son's 2000 Millenia S 2.3L was throwing P0301/P0304 and running like crap with flashing CEL and idling at about 1200 rpm. We replaced all 6 plugs(Autolite APP5224 which crosses to the NKG PZFR5F, gaps were .029") and replaced the #1 and #4 coils. Now have flashing CEL with P0300 and car runs better, but still obvious misfire. Car is also idling at about 1200 rpms. Checked the fuel injector readings and got 13 ohms on all 6. Checked the EGR valve and the diaphragm moves when I suck on the vacuum connection. When car is running and I disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve, it makes no difference in engine operation.

We spent $4,200 a year ago having all new timing, all new cat converters and some other items replaced. Last time I'll use a dealer.

I tried spraying starter fluid all around while car was running and didn't get any response that would indicate a vacuum leak.

I'm wondering if the solenoid valve from which the EGR valve gets its vacuum is working? Any way to check that? Also wondering about oxygen sensors and/or MAP?

Any help appreciated.

this one is outta my league. way back when, our black car had 0300. i first put in heet, cause i was sure i got some bad gas. problem subsided, but didnt go away. iirc, it would start and run for a few minutes, then start missing, and i would get the flashing ce. it kept scanning 0300. so i changed the plugs, i think that was my first time. i dont remember a lot, but i remember it didnt change much. so i bought 6 new coils. brand new. like 900 bucks. changed them all, and the problem went away.

your high idle sounds like a vacuum leak, even tho you checked with spray. i am unaware of any other plug except the ngk that is properly gapped, but since you checked, that can be eliminated, unless you had to regap, then perhaps the electrodes were damaged? high idle can also be a bad idle control valve, and they are really pricey. without specific cyls, just 0300 that is a puzzle. were the coils you changed new or used?

The coils were new.

well, unless you regapped those plugs, which you are NOT supposed to do, i dont think they are pre gapped at .7mm. when i was working part time at oreilly auto parts, i took every plug that was supposed to fit the 2.3 off the shelf and checked the gap. all except the ngk were 1.1mm, way too big. i dont remember the autolite number, but then, who can? they have such a whacky part numbering system. there are some posts on the other millenia group about plugs with too large a gap throwing the 0300 code, and killing the coils. if the coil is weak, it wont throw a code, but it will miss. after a while, it will then throw a code. the cop system is on a lot of cars, and a lot of them eat coils. i worked at the bmw dealer for a while, and we were always changing out coils, we had hundreds in stock

Okay, I give up! I've read in too many places about how sensitive these plugs are, and yes we did re-gap them. So, as much of a PIA as it is, I've decided to tear back into this thing today and get NKG plugs and make damn sure the plugs are no longer an issue. We'll see what happens. Thanks for your help and prodding.

i do think it is plug or coil related, but i aint no expert. lemme know what you find

Kennin, finally got the new plugs. Pulled the front 3 to replace and they looked like the engine had been running rich. Replaced them with the new plugs. Then went to back side and pulled plug #1 - It was complete clean, like it just came out of the box. Then I remembered, when we were putting the previous set of plugs in(the Autolites) we broke a wire on the p0lug that plugs into the coil - this was also the new coil to address the P0301 code. IBasically we had pulled the black wire with the white stripe out of the connector. I pushed it back in carefully and checked continuity with ohm gage by piercing this B/W wire on on the wire side and contacting the corresponding tab in the plug on the other side - we got continuity so I figured the wire would work okay and we were very careful when we reassembled. But now, seeing that it looks like this plug, with a brand new coil, was not firing at all - which could partially explain the rough running - I'm wondering if I now need to replace the harness. Can't reall see a way to solder a repair. So some questions:

Is there a way to repair this connector?
Should we replace the harness?
Is it one harness for all 6 cylinders or is it one for front/one for back?
Where to these wires connect on the other end - is there a distributor of some sort?

Thanks

wow. i have never been there, and on a bmw we would replace the harness, but bmw sells sections of harness in the engine bay. i would look for a used harness, and at least splice in the connector. dunno about the answers to your other questions. but it sure sounds like you found the problem

Ended up putting it all back together with the new plugs and made sure that wire was pressed in on #1. It runs perfectly!!!! Hasn't run this good since we bought it. I drove it for a while and the CEL came back on. Now shows P0303. So I guess I'll tear it apart one more time for the #3 coil and then it should be complete - for now. Time to sell.

Service Manual
 

milleniatech.net - Documentation
These should work for your Millenia S

milleniatech.net - Spark Plug Removal/Installation
This is a good visual site for what you doin

milleniatech.net
This is the home page.Some of the links are out dated and dont work but ALOT of good stuff

milleniatech.net - KL-ZEM (2.3L V6) Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram (1996+ Models)
Make sure you check this out

Sounds like a plug # 3 issue.That is the WORST one to get to because of that stupid 1" air hose.I take both clamps and move them to the middle,then push hose towards passsenger side then pull it off.Pain in rear to put back on.ards