Engine Making Oil
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: Sioux Falls South Dakota
Engine Making Oil
Good Morning Everyone
Seasons greetings from South Dakota. I have what looks like to be a potental problem and would like to seek your comments and see if I have a real issue?
I have a 2023 CX9 2.5 litre Turbo. The car has travelled 40,000 miles and I have owned it since new. Recently I have noticed the oil level creeping up the dip-stick. It is not alot, (1/4inch, (6mm)). I change the oil and filter every 4000 miles and always use the 5W30 full synthetic.
The car has always driven well and is a pleasure to drive. Much ot the current milage has been done on interstate driving conditions and over long distances. The fuel economy has been a steady 24mpg.
The only expenses which I have had with the car is the regular oil changes and a new set of tires at 40,000 miles.
From my experiences the "making oil" issue happens when there is a leaking fuel injector or in the past a worn carburetor. There is litlle to no injector and pump noises, as you would expect when either of these parts are faulty. There is no DTCs ever shown on the car.The oil does not show any sign of coolant contamination, (going a milky brown color).and dose not use any coolant or oil in the past.
Thank you for reading my thread and I would appreciate your comments?
Sincerely
John
'.
Seasons greetings from South Dakota. I have what looks like to be a potental problem and would like to seek your comments and see if I have a real issue?
I have a 2023 CX9 2.5 litre Turbo. The car has travelled 40,000 miles and I have owned it since new. Recently I have noticed the oil level creeping up the dip-stick. It is not alot, (1/4inch, (6mm)). I change the oil and filter every 4000 miles and always use the 5W30 full synthetic.
The car has always driven well and is a pleasure to drive. Much ot the current milage has been done on interstate driving conditions and over long distances. The fuel economy has been a steady 24mpg.
The only expenses which I have had with the car is the regular oil changes and a new set of tires at 40,000 miles.
From my experiences the "making oil" issue happens when there is a leaking fuel injector or in the past a worn carburetor. There is litlle to no injector and pump noises, as you would expect when either of these parts are faulty. There is no DTCs ever shown on the car.The oil does not show any sign of coolant contamination, (going a milky brown color).and dose not use any coolant or oil in the past.
Thank you for reading my thread and I would appreciate your comments?
Sincerely
John
'.
Last edited by johnnymac; Dec 28, 2024 at 11:02 AM. Reason: spelling error
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,612
Likes: 230
From: Northern California
LOL I saw the thread titls and it made me laugh.
Ok so here is an OBSERVATION ONLY and not to be considered as something absolute or fact based. However, it is what and how I have advised and or aught my technicians in the shop . So based on my experience with my own Mazda as well numerous customers on various platforms I have noticed this and here is what I observed or found after dissembling 3 Skyactiv engines.
Let's first understand the marks on the dipstick. The lower and upper marks are the oil capacity normal measure amounts of oil volume for safe engine operations. So, if you get passed OLD SCOOL HOW-TO read dip stick it will help you understand the next info.
When you add or fill during an oil and filter service you should really only fill to in-between those 2 marks and not the top mark. The reason is the basic about oil as it gets to operating temperature and when heat soak applies when you first shut off the engine the oil level reading is going to be higher on the dip stick then when the oil is cold. Other reason filling only to the mid area of the dipstick can be influenced by the oils temperature when you drained it. A warmer engine will drain more of the oil in the block then a cold engine.
Now here is the thing about when you check your oil. The best time should be early in the morning and before you start the engine. The oil will have at least 8 hours or more to settle and drain back into the oil pan. So, you're reading again will be lower than reading it most any other time. Also, how you wipe the dipstick. Use a paper towel and wipe it a couple times before reinserting it back in the dipstick hole. Then don't let go of the dipstick and as soon as you fully insert the dipstick pull it immediately back out. This will be your true oil level in the oil pan. Do not try to re-read the stick again by reinserting the dipstick. The tube will now have oil from your first reading that will get on the dipstick and make for reading a good clear assessment difficult. This is where so many get confused and state that they get different readings and bad readings and seem to want to blame it on the dip stick. Checking it to many times at once!
The engine has so many casting areas that can hold an accumulative amount of oil that can cause some interesting oil dip stick reading. So the way I suggest the Skyactiv oil dip stick and the amont of oil during a change or adding should be followed for more precise oil readings.
Ok so here is an OBSERVATION ONLY and not to be considered as something absolute or fact based. However, it is what and how I have advised and or aught my technicians in the shop . So based on my experience with my own Mazda as well numerous customers on various platforms I have noticed this and here is what I observed or found after dissembling 3 Skyactiv engines.
Let's first understand the marks on the dipstick. The lower and upper marks are the oil capacity normal measure amounts of oil volume for safe engine operations. So, if you get passed OLD SCOOL HOW-TO read dip stick it will help you understand the next info.
When you add or fill during an oil and filter service you should really only fill to in-between those 2 marks and not the top mark. The reason is the basic about oil as it gets to operating temperature and when heat soak applies when you first shut off the engine the oil level reading is going to be higher on the dip stick then when the oil is cold. Other reason filling only to the mid area of the dipstick can be influenced by the oils temperature when you drained it. A warmer engine will drain more of the oil in the block then a cold engine.
Now here is the thing about when you check your oil. The best time should be early in the morning and before you start the engine. The oil will have at least 8 hours or more to settle and drain back into the oil pan. So, you're reading again will be lower than reading it most any other time. Also, how you wipe the dipstick. Use a paper towel and wipe it a couple times before reinserting it back in the dipstick hole. Then don't let go of the dipstick and as soon as you fully insert the dipstick pull it immediately back out. This will be your true oil level in the oil pan. Do not try to re-read the stick again by reinserting the dipstick. The tube will now have oil from your first reading that will get on the dipstick and make for reading a good clear assessment difficult. This is where so many get confused and state that they get different readings and bad readings and seem to want to blame it on the dip stick. Checking it to many times at once!
The engine has so many casting areas that can hold an accumulative amount of oil that can cause some interesting oil dip stick reading. So the way I suggest the Skyactiv oil dip stick and the amont of oil during a change or adding should be followed for more precise oil readings.
Last edited by Callisto; Dec 31, 2024 at 01:37 PM.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: Sioux Falls South Dakota
Hello Callisto
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my message. When I change the oil in my engine, I do it on a cold engine and give the old used oil ample time to drain out completly, as while this it happening I am doing other servicing work on the car, like rotating tires, checking other fluid levels and accessible filters. I refill the engine with the quantity which is stated in the handbook. I agree and understood what you said about the two dip stick marks are indicators for safe engine operation.On my vehicle the indicated engine oil volume in the handbook does bring the level up to the top mark. I accept what you are saying about hot and cold engine operation and the oil level dropping down a little when the engine is hot and just turned off. Like you, I have been brought up to check vehicle fluid levels on a cold engine. I disagree with your comments about higher levels on a hot engine, as I would think that there would be alot of oil which has been pumped around the engine during operation and will be pooled around the cyliner head(s) casting, valves and retained on the multi timing chains on a modern engine and it will take time for this to drain down to the oil pan. I think that one of the biggest issues which we have on modern engines is that "new technology" oils do drain down too quickly and off the timng chains and there is little or no oil on the timing chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers and VVT solenoids on a cold start up. I could go off on a tangent here with engine problems I have seen in recent years with timing chain problems. Thank you once again and I appreciate your comments and knowledge. Regards John
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my message. When I change the oil in my engine, I do it on a cold engine and give the old used oil ample time to drain out completly, as while this it happening I am doing other servicing work on the car, like rotating tires, checking other fluid levels and accessible filters. I refill the engine with the quantity which is stated in the handbook. I agree and understood what you said about the two dip stick marks are indicators for safe engine operation.On my vehicle the indicated engine oil volume in the handbook does bring the level up to the top mark. I accept what you are saying about hot and cold engine operation and the oil level dropping down a little when the engine is hot and just turned off. Like you, I have been brought up to check vehicle fluid levels on a cold engine. I disagree with your comments about higher levels on a hot engine, as I would think that there would be alot of oil which has been pumped around the engine during operation and will be pooled around the cyliner head(s) casting, valves and retained on the multi timing chains on a modern engine and it will take time for this to drain down to the oil pan. I think that one of the biggest issues which we have on modern engines is that "new technology" oils do drain down too quickly and off the timng chains and there is little or no oil on the timing chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers and VVT solenoids on a cold start up. I could go off on a tangent here with engine problems I have seen in recent years with timing chain problems. Thank you once again and I appreciate your comments and knowledge. Regards John
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,612
Likes: 230
From: Northern California
Your ECU would have generated a DTC if you had a leaking fuel injector. You would have also seen a reduction in mpg , possibly poor idle speed , and likely if experienced smelled it in the oil . If you used an oscilloscope it would be seen as a failing injector.
You can have a sample of you oil analyzed which would show fuel .
blackstone oil labs
https://www.blackstone-labs.com
several oil changes, lots of pictures
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...like-do-44018/
We also do several hundred oil and filter changes annually and while I assign them to other for service every service done is inspected by myself or the owner before the customer is called.
I think I understand about other engines a little ?
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/off...-living-44406/
You can have a sample of you oil analyzed which would show fuel .
blackstone oil labs
https://www.blackstone-labs.com
several oil changes, lots of pictures
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...like-do-44018/
We also do several hundred oil and filter changes annually and while I assign them to other for service every service done is inspected by myself or the owner before the customer is called.
I think I understand about other engines a little ?
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/off...-living-44406/
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