So a few weeks ago my fiance went out with a budget of $8000 and bought a 2007 Cx-7 with 95k while I was at work. Deal was done, no turning back now. It has a slight oil leak and a code popped for insufficient coolant temp. I did some searching and from what I've been reading I'm now terrified and waiting for the damn thing to self destruct. There does seem to be a grumbling noise up front but all 4 cylinder cars that I've driven have some sort of grumbling noise of some sort. Carfax shows some servicing at dealership and jiffy lubes here and there but no timing chain replacement. Should I be absolutely scared of this car? I'm mechanically inclined but these things are out of my realm. I probably won't be able to afford to have the timing chain done until after the new year when my GI bill kicks in if it's going to be close to 1K.

 

I assume its the AWD 2.3 petrol turbo model? Where in the world are you?

Unless it rattles on start up when cold, you shouldn't have any problems with the chain & or variable valve timing. Get the oil & filter changed straight away. Might pay to take it to a Mazda dealership for them to listen to your concerned noise. Do you have a DTC for the coolant issues? eg P****

 

I'm in Utah in the US. It is the 2.3T AWD model sorry about that. I'm changing the oil today. Going off of the sticker the dealer put on the windshield it's got about 4700 miles on the last change and it looks pretty dirty. I had a DTC pulled but can't remember which one exactly. Maybe P0126? I had the same general "low coolant temp" code for my Rubicon and just finished throwing a thermostat in last night. Aside from that there's no rattling, just seems oddly loud for a nicer car. We also have an 11 year old Hyundai that has been to hell and back that seems quieter on the inside.

 

These CX-7 models have history of leaking from the seal between the oil cooler and the assembly that houses the oil filter cartridge. Bad news is that Mazda acknowledges bad design, has re-designed the oil cooler assembly, costs like $500 instead of engineering a new seal. Daughter bought aftermarket oil seal to correct this from Ebay retailer, and I installed this last Saturday, so OK so far. I read some just coat the old seal with RTV and re-install that.

Also, these CX-7 are known to have poor AC performance, and the original 2007 and 2008 compressors have history of locking up while driving, disabling the vehicle. Mazda finally conceded, and if such failure occurred before 60K miles, they would take care of it. But only if it failed then.

 

I like the car, just not dependable and Mazda doesn't give a crap

 

As long as you bought the dealership extended warrantee at time of purchase these costly repairs will cost you nothing!

 

I have a 2012 cx7 with a busted taillight passenger side. did some research, and these things are expen$ive!


I have seen prices ranging from 200-600 per. I hate the idea of spending that much and want to find something cheaper if at all possible.


the question I have are all the cx7 model years compatible from 07-12? they appear to be the same taillight, and looks to be interchangeable. my concern is that maybe the wiring harness changed across the years. I know that 2010 to 2012 are ok. But want to know compatibility for those older models with the 2012.

 

honestly it should be ok. just make sure your oil is at operating temp by driving around for 15-20 min before you change it. and have a talk with your fiance..

you should be alright

 

Update!!! So we had set aside some money to get the VVT actuator and timing chain changed. The pin on the actuator was getting ready to let go. There was about a 1/4" wide chunk missing from beside the pin. Tech said it probably broke off in small enough pieces not to worry about but it was on it's way out. All in all with full syn oil change it was $1167 out the door. "Diesel" noise is gone and it purrs like a kitten on start up.

 

As long as you bought the dealership extended warrantee at time of purchase these costly repairs will cost you nothing!