I have a problem with the gas consumption. It is giving me 16 miles per gallon. It only has 60,000 miles approximately, any of you have the same problem? how have you solved it?

 

Welcome to the forum
MPG can be enfluenced by dozen of factors. Really need more information to even begin to give suggestions?

Let's start with what was the last service done, at what miles and exactly what was it.

 

My Mazda CX7 2012 has 60,000 miles on it and a mechanic just did a service a week ago, after several months without maintenance, so he changed the oil, the oil filter, the air filter, the spark plugs, changed the Valve Cover Gasket and I filled up the levels of the powering steeling oil and the antifreeze/coolant liquid
Last July, he changed the Oxygen sensor O2 that goes after the Catalytic converter.
The Check Engine light turns on sometimes, but I have scanned it and it doesn't show any error
After the maintenance was made, the alarm siren was on several times for no reason.
And after that, just a few days ago, I couldn't start the Mazda, because the battery was not power enough, although I bought it a year ago. I took the battery to AutoZone, to charge it and they told me that I have to replace it, but they suspect that my car has a problem and is killing my battery. I bought a replacement, paying a difference using the guarantee.
Tomorrow, the same mechanic will check the electric system to find if there is an error that caused the battery malfunction.

 

Your ECU needs to be properly scanned. Based on your response it was either not or the person that did it does not have good Dianostic Training or experience. Also based on what you wrote clearly indicates missing information that is available in your ECU.

An age of a battery based on when you bought it is not the true age of the battery. When a battery is load tested it is either good bad or needs to be charged and retested. No one should tell you based on a battery load test that something is wrong with your charging system based on a failure no fail battery. 2 different serving checks.
I am not sure why your charging system is suspect at this point and why anyone would suggest that it be checked. I hope it is not the same "mechanic" that does not know how fully to scan an ECU???
The rear HO2 that you had replaced if it was a generic brand could cause some of what you are experiencing. but again, the proper ECU scanning would have clues to that.

CLUE to support and help you understand why the ECU has not been properly scanned. If the check engine light occasionally comes on but does not remain on after a day or so then that means there is a DTC(s) in the permanent file that the cause of the check engine light has not been corrected. So, when your engine cycles a few times (1 cycle= letting the car sit overnight and then starting and driving)

 

First of all thank you for your time answering my questions.

I asked the same Mechanic to come, because when the battery was not loaded, I passed energy using another car and I could started my Mazda, but the revolutions were very high (you know, when the choke is on) (normally they are high but not that much at the first start on the Morning) and when I change to the Drive or Rear position, the Mazda lowers the revolutions of the engine, but this time it didn't and I had troubled putting the gear shift from Parking to the Rear, since I parked to close to a car at the front, because it make a noise that it kicked it in, like it was too accelerated to make a change of the gear shift. And I had to leave my foot on the stop pedal because it was too accelerated, to avoid hitting the car behind me.

So I thought there was something wrong with the choke and I didn't want to use my Mazda, until the mechanic checks it again. And I tried to scan it myself, I have one scanner, but this when I found that the battery was totally Dead and this is when I went to Autozone.

I believe the AutoZone guy made a wrong assumption that there is a problem with the charger of my Mazda, because of the battery was not that old, since I bought it ay year ago.. The battery was totally uncharged (3 from 500). So he charged it and tested it and it measured only 300 from 500 and therefore he suggested I should replaced it and I did.

Yes, the rear HO2 I replaced it was not an Original, since the Mazda dealer here in Cancun or Mexico didn't have any and I should wait months I was told, so I bought a generic one.

The check engine light sometimes is on, but for just some minutes and after It turns off sometimes after you turn off the engine. And sometimes the light goes on when the engine is on, but sometimes not, so there is no pattern.

Tomorrow, when I scan it, I will send you a message, if you allow me

 

Ok well we sorta go through the language challenge?
sure send what you find when you scan .

 

Thank you again for your time, and I would appreciate checking my message
My mechanic cleaned the Throttle Body this time and replace some broken vacuum hoses, and it worked fine for two days, but last night the alarm turned on for no reason and I have to turned it off like 3 times, even I went out from my house to open and close the doors,
But Today at the morning the battery was totally dead again, although is brand new.
I passed energy with another car and I could start my Mazda to charge my battery.
I scanned it and my scanner marked 5 errors:
P0606 $7E8 Control Module Processor
P061B $7E8 Internal Control Module Torque Calculation
U0101 $7E8 Lost Communication with TCM
U0121 $7E8 Lost Communication with Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
U0155 $7E8 Lost Communication with Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Control Module
I sent these codes to my Mechanic and he texted me that he thinks the Alarm Module is the one, which is causing problems.
What do you think?

 

Sorry I seldom ever use members scanned information to give advice. There is more to scanning then just locating CHECK FOR CURRENT ENGINE CODES.
Your mechanic should also no better than guessed based on your findings without him/her physically scanning using a professional quality Diagnostic Scanner all the important areas of your ECU and verifying when they were activated?
If you use the search feature i am sure you will find where I have stated what should be accessed in an ECU and why and how it should be verified?

Guessing at solution is going to cost you money if those guesses are incorrect!

I would also have your battery charged to minimum 12.50 volts and have it load tested regardless of its age based on being discharged below 11.50 volts so often lately!

 

I didn't want to overwhelm you with data, but these are the LIVE DATA of my scanner:
BATT (V) 13.944
DTC_CNT 5
FUELSYS1 OL-Fault
FUELSYS2 --
LOAD_PCT (%) 25.5
ECT (C) 79
SHRTFT1 (%) 0.0
LONGFT1 (%) 0.0
MAP (KPA) 32
RPM 825
VSS (km/h) 0
SPARKADV 22.0
IAT (C) 34
MAF (9/S) 4.03
TP (%) 11.0
02SB1S2(V) 0.000
SHRTFTB1S2 (%) 99.0
EQ_RATB1S1 0.931
02SB1S1 (mA) -0.57
OBDSUP 0BD
RUNTM (sec) 638
MIL_DIST (km) 0
EGR_PCT (%) 0.0
EVAP_PCT (%) 0.0
FLI (%) 51.0
WARM_UPS 12
CLR_DIST (km) 114
EVAP_VP(Pa) 62.8
BARO (kpa) 102
CATEMP11 (C) 349
VPWR(V) 13.93
LOAD_ABS (%) 19.2
EQ_RAT 0.997
TP_R(%) 2.0
AAT (C) 29
TP_B (%) 11.4
APP_D(%) 31.4
APP_E(%) 20.4
TAC_PCT (%) 2.7

 

Thanks but...
while it is a good effort on your part it's not exactly how you diagnose a problem. You have to start with ECU checking for DTC(s) all areas of the ECU I/M info. From that point you then might be able to use some of the information (overload) you posted. But it is really a time waster to have that long a list. So basically, you gave me an untargeted DATA stream of an engine operating event that lasted how long and under what conditions???? (missing info) and that's really all.
If I did see something wrong or may be incorrect, I would have to have more specific information gathered in the ECU to confirm that theory . Besides this is a data log at idle speed only your CAT is not even warmed up yet. HA! . Many numbers change just with changing the live by wire %.

I will say this is another example of an ECU OBDII/CANbus Scanning device that in the hands of a DIY or untrained in diagnostics nothing more than information overload.

In my own vehicles I look a 65 of 105 PIDs (that's the info you posted) on a screen page that shows up to 8 per page 9 pages for up to 72 PIDs in my Mazda as well all my other vehicles with a mounted Ultra Gauge. It also shows DTC and other vital information. This is in real time so I can also check other influences that also effect the engine running condition and the ECU control of systems.
I would get a headache if I had to look at a customer's data log like your everyday or several times a day and frankly would thank them and toss it when they left their vehicle to be serviced. LOL