Mazda CX-7 This sporty turbocharged 4 cylinder SUV combines the spirit of a performance car with the versatility of an SUV.

P2009 Code working toward a fix

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  #1  
Old 10-26-2014, 04:43 PM
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Default P2009 Code working toward a fix

100,000 miles, started getting a P2009 error code. Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low Bank 1.
I have checked the solenoid and it works when power is applied per the shop manual. No cracks in the vacuum hoses. I have applied vacuum to the actuator and it works fine. When the car warms up in city driving it stutters, and has no power and will not pull. After cooling off it will run long enough to get home before starting to sputter again. I guess it's the solenoid getting hot and letting go. Can the shutter valve not working make the car lose power and not run well?
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:06 AM
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What engine do you have?

Make sure the lever isn't broken off at the manifold.
 
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:06 AM
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Yes a faulty valve can make the car run like poo.
 
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Old 10-27-2014, 06:31 PM
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2.3 4 cylinder Turbo, Direct injection, All wheel drive.
I will be replacing the solenoid tomorrow, that might fix the P2009 code, but I don't think it will fix the car losing power and not able to pull itself down the road. I don't believe it's a turbo problem, no smoke, and after a cool down cycle, the car runs great (turbo has been replaced from the original one). After one of the spells, I did see a P2187 and a P0193 Code. Fuel system to lean at idle and Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high input. I figured they were a RESULT of the car running rough, losing power, etc. not the cause. I've been looking into these codes.
 

Last edited by du907; 10-27-2014 at 06:41 PM.
  #5  
Old 11-06-2014, 09:40 PM
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Default P2009 fix

I removed the intercooler. There on top of the intake manifold is a small rectangular plastic vacuum tank with a solenoid bolted to it. The vacuum tank is bolted to the intake manifold with 4 small screws and has a nipple with a rubber gasket that inserts into the intake manifold. There is a hose that comes out of the vacuum tank and goes to the solenoid, then another hose from the solenoid to the swirl valve on the side of the intake manifold.
Upon starting the engine, the solenoid opens and vacuum opens the swirl valve. The ECU controls the the operation of this valve and the solenoid. The solenoid is basically an electro magnet and when switched opens a valve and allows the vacuum to operate the swirl valve. The solenoid must have been getting weak and all the heat under the intercooler would make it "let go" after the engine warmed up and cause the swirl valve to operate incorrectly causing the engine to lose power.
I bought a replacement at the local parts store (dorman brand) for $66 USD.
I have been driving the car for about two weeks, long trip to the mountains and many local in town trips and all is well.
du907
 

Last edited by du907; 11-06-2014 at 09:43 PM.
  #6  
Old 08-27-2017, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by du907
I removed the intercooler. There on top of the intake manifold is a small rectangular plastic vacuum tank with a solenoid bolted to it. The vacuum tank is bolted to the intake manifold with 4 small screws and has a nipple with a rubber gasket that inserts into the intake manifold. There is a hose that comes out of the vacuum tank and goes to the solenoid, then another hose from the solenoid to the swirl valve on the side of the intake manifold.
Upon starting the engine, the solenoid opens and vacuum opens the swirl valve. The ECU controls the the operation of this valve and the solenoid. The solenoid is basically an electro magnet and when switched opens a valve and allows the vacuum to operate the swirl valve. The solenoid must have been getting weak and all the heat under the intercooler would make it "let go" after the engine warmed up and cause the swirl valve to operate incorrectly causing the engine to lose power.
I bought a replacement at the local parts store (dorman brand) for $66 USD.
I have been driving the car for about two weeks, long trip to the mountains and many local in town trips and all is well.
du907
du907, great post!
I have a P2009 code on my 09 CX7 along with P2004 code. I just order the vacuum tank solenoid valve and plan to replace it soon. Did you happen to have a P2004 code as well? Not sure of these two codes work in tandem or if I have a second problem.
 
  #7  
Old 06-10-2018, 10:08 PM
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Default Stumped

I’m getting P2006 & P2009 on my 2011 CX7. I measured voltage and the new intake valve solenoid is getting 12vdc however there isn’t any vacuum once the engine is running. Here’s the stumbler, I’m able to turn it on and off with the engine running using my bi directional scan tool-anyone seen this before?
 
Attached Thumbnails P2009 Code working toward a fix-0af5b8f5-a6cf-4003-a69f-4351ea4b2a49.jpeg  

Last edited by RIGGED; 06-10-2018 at 10:13 PM.
  #8  
Old 06-12-2018, 07:24 AM
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that's a vacuum solenoid.
 
  #9  
Old 06-14-2018, 10:44 PM
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Default Intake runner control valve

eBay - $25 free shipping. Has 2 vacuum lines. Smaller jeeps also have these type actuators. To keep it simple it opens and closes allowing or closing up how much air is coming into the manifold. On direct injection especially they get plugged up and really dirty. It (lever actautor/) or valve can get stuck or crud sticks inside the small valve causing the code. It'll remain open or closed. Can run rough. Sometimes no symptoms at all. Replace the valve. Clean out the manifold if your able too and have years of trouble free to come.
 
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