I would think that would be fine since a 4-pin trailer connector doesn't supply power to the trailer. It would seem that the power lead is just for the added signal control box which should be low draw. On second thought, the control box is probably a signal isolator and the power lead is being used to actually power the trailer lights so the accessory outlet might not provide enough power. You'll know as soon as you start blowing fuses, and will probably have a better chance if the trailer lights are LED.

 

Yes after further research, the rear outlet is only 120W/ 10A. I believe the control box needs 15A. Thanks for pointing that out

 

I had assumed/hoped ( yes the A word) that the factory harness would have used similar connectors as the after-market harness'.

There is a dedicated 15A fuse in the kick panel fuse box for a trailer. The terminal is in the main harness connector inside the left rear panel. It's the connector in the first pic I posted. You should be able to locate it with a test light..

 

yes- it was the green #14 wire on the front side of the main body tap on the left side. Thanks for all the good advice. Hitch and wiring set to go!

 

Glad being the guinea pig was helpful!

 

Glad yours came out good.
I did my 2020 and used both the Mazda OEM hitch and wiring harness.
I prefer the smaller/cleaner look (granted that's my opinion) of the OEM and how the wiring plug fastens to the OEM hitch.
Not sure if the "connectors" are different for the wiring harness by year, but mine was simply plug in.
The OEM hitch also allows for clearance of the majority of aftermarket exhausts if your into that sort of thing ;-)

 

Instead of a connector dangling outside in the salt and dirt, I leave it inside the car and run it out the hatch when I need it. I made my own 4 to 3 light converter box and installed in my Focus, but outside of that the install is much like the CX-5.

 

I’m hoping the detailed experiences in this thread may help me. I have a 2021 signature that I bought used at 3k miles. A year later now, I wanted to use a small trailer but learned the trailer brakes lights aren’t working but turn signals are. I had Mazda research by my vin number and it was installed by a dealership as an option. That dealer is way to far away so I’m on my own with a short time frame. Does anyone that installed the Mazda 4 pin connector have a theory as to what is wrong?

 

Pull the left rear inner panel and check the connectors from the factory harness to the trailer wiring box. If they all seem phsically solid, check the box side wires with a probe. If there is power the brake light wire going into the box, the problem is in the box. If there is no power in that wire, the connection to the main harness is faulty, probably caused by the use of scotch-lock connectors.

 

Would you happen to have the wiring diagram that came with your kit so I know what wire does what? I can’t seem to find it or any instructions instructions for it online.