I get low oil light 20 minutes after oil change two times in a row now. Anyone else?
I’ve changed oil on cars hundreds of times on many different cars and have never see this. First time I tightened filter hand tight like I hav always done and apparently the cx5 needs to be a lot tighter. Access cover was fairly clean but there was a drip on the filter. Tightened filter as hard as I could added half a quart and was good until today. To day I tightened the filter as hard as I could added 4.5 quarts like the book says for 2.5 skysctiv-G and same thing happened. Anyone else experience this? Yes I lubed the gasket with oil and cleaned the surface like I have always done. Only thing I can think to try next is to use grease on the gasket instead of oil. I even used a filter socket to get it tight. Is there something wrong with this 2022 cx5 with 23,000 miles? Help!

 

Welcome to the forum

 

Hand tighten based on your experience is all you still need do to a new oil filter.
If you read you need to check your oil level after changing it. Unless you measured the exact oil removed and replaced that exact oil you may not need as much or slightly more then what is in the service guide. I am sure that all your past engine oil changes you have had do either and the Mazda engine is no different.
However, if you go below the lower mark on the dip stick it could trigger your oil light. The Mazda dipstick seems to be a bit challenging to understand how to read it among many Mazda owners. It is simple, the top line is maximum oil level (not full as you would think) and the lower line is the minimum oil level. So anywhere in-between those 2 marks is CORRECT. Fill cold oil to the top mark will cause your oil level to be greater as the oil expands slightly when it reaches complete operating temperature. In closing the best advice is fill not over fill start the engine and then let it cool off and check the oil level COLD! (do not confuse this with ATF which you check with engine running and HOT)

If after you follow what I recommend and directed, then if the oil light still activates that you need to do Diagnostic work and go to the OBDII diagnostic connector and with a Diagnostic scanner directly connected to the OBDII connector (no blue tooth scanning device) and check for and active or pending DTCs and also look at your monitors. If they are all ok, then the next check is the oil sensor itself if it is faulty. If these turns up no joy, then I recommend having your ECU flashed with the current ECU program update available.

 

After checking level, it took another 1/2 quart to go from bottom dot and set it right in the middle of the two dots. Took it for a spin and is all good. Thanks.

 

Actually, “the book” says 4.8 quarts so you didn’t add enough.

 

Honestly while that is a repeated document from Mazda often posted on this forum and many others, I am just asking .... did you read the *top portion ? For all the oil changes we do in the shop (minimum 9 a week) I have seldom had any of my Techs say that when they read the oil quantities on many platforms that they are spot on.
The wording :
* (Approximate Quantities)


Now if you all want a real good laugh pop over to another popular Mazda forum and watch the DIY argue down about the "exact amount" posting that document and no one seems to actually read that valuable information?


On a technical note: The reason the Mazda Turbocharged engine has a slightly more oil quantity is for the cooling line that go to the Turbo itself.

 

Interesting to me is owners manuals always seem to list oil quantity both with and without changing the oil filter. How often do folks actually change the oil and leave the filter? I did that on my Tacoma as Toyota listed a 10k oil change interval and I felt better changing the filter at 5k then did a full filter and oil change at 10k.

 

It has to do with something I read but can't find about providing capacity values to owners of vehicles. It is an age old I believe if I am not mistaken regulation that auto manufactures must provide. Those capacities are also in independent service procedure like the primary one I/We use (in the shop) ALLData .

I also looked a few Factory Service Manuals before post a response, and it is also strange to note that even on say a small block Chevy they don't post 5 quarts with oil filter as they once did in say 1990 and older. This also sort of give more thought that the oil capacity was established from a new dry engine and not one that had been field tested or run to establish the actual full oil capacity values? And FSM for BMW is even more unclear with the few FSM I have here at home. LOL

This also could be why we often read when someone go to have their oil/filter serviced when they later check the oil level it is often lower than the full mark. BECAUSE the setting on the fill spout is set to the information about the vehicle. The end is naturally the failure on the part of the person to double check the dipstick> But then if they had and it was lower than the full mark should they add more oil? I would suggest that NO because now they are going outside the service recommendation that is set by the auto manufactures. IDK. We start the engine after an oil/filter service. Then letting it set for about 10-15 minutes and recheck the oil level.

I guess for me it easy to logically figure...when I drain oil it is in the same pan, I use for decades I know how much oil should be drained. When I refill the engine, I go 4.5 quarts start the engine for a couple minutes then turn it off let it settle the oil and recheck the oil level. The great thing about the Mazda dip stick is the proper sue of the low and upper marks so if you get anywhere in between you are go to go!

I am also Old School creature of habit and will check my oil level at about 250-500 mile intervals as well. But as of now oil unaccounted for leaking or burning. I still get a little collecting in the intake manifold and still working on correcting that as it is with ALL DI engines. I have reduced that almost down to a light oil film and no puddling. I run 3 catch cans, 1 on breather side and 2 different types on PCV side.