That so right! You can't believe over the years how so many think they know what year their vehicle is but in the auto parts world it is all about the production date. And then when they can't give it to me I simply go by the year knowing that it will be a crap shoot if they get the correct part and if it is wrong it will for sure be my fault! LOL

 

Could someone shed some light on the oil volume required for an oil change with and without the oil filter? Thanks in advance.

 

There is no wording in the Factory service manual "REQUIRED" having to do with the quantity of oil for engine oil service.
DIY :
You should get 5 qt to do an oil filter and oil change
I would get the same on hand for just sump oil change.

There is NO accurate amount to the once because every situation varies regarding changing engine oil even on other platform. that is why you check the oil level using the oil dip stick..

If you read various threads on this forum you may understand why.

You should also read from the begining this thread to understand better how to check the oil for proper level.

 

Another observation on an old thread......Changed Oil on my 2018 CX-5 NA yesterday, old oil showed exactly full on the dipstick. Installed a new Fram 6607 and 4.73 L of M1 0W20 and now it's 1/8 of a inch below full so yes it's a 5 L sump. Bottom line toss in a 5 L jug with filter and forget about it for 5,000 km.

 

..👍

 

After seeing the comments on dipstick readings I wondered if my 2.0 3 Sport stick length was the same as my 2.5 sky CX-5. Turns out they were different, and here’s a picture. While under the hood I checked the oil in the CX-5. I pushed it down and pulled it out checked the oil it showed ⅓ low between the marks. I thought this was weird since 200 km ago it was full and never used oil and it was an hour after it was shut down.




Again I inserted it until it felt resistance but this time I pushed a little harder and it went past the o-ring to its correct location. This time it was full at the top of the marks. Perhaps it was the cold o-ring and perhaps it was my being cold, -8 degrees C and windy plus can't see it with the cover on but here are a couple comparison pictures. Strange thing is this is the first time I experienced this on either of the cars. Oil is M1 0w20 with Fram Synthetic 6607 currently with 2500 km on it with 122,000 km on the engine and the 4.73 L Jug put it to the top mark back in Oct when it was changed with 0 oil consumption to date. Knock on Wood!!!!!! Moral of the story before questioning your Mazda 2.5 be sure you have done your homework.

 

While the dipsticks are different you did bring a good point about how DIY check their oil and yes you must push it all the way back into the valve cover completely.

The hard to remove is actually a good sign of the o-ring doing its job. Without that seal you would get blow by that eventually would have vaporized oil scumbling up your engine! Not to mention other related PCV system issues.


I am still amazed that this thread and how to read a DIP STICK is still so active and popularity by members reading it and victors as well?? LOL

RZRider dude ... long over dure engine washing?

 

Spring cleaning and bath in April, had it in for corrosion free treatment in October and they drowned it with the following week a dirt road trip. It wasn't rustproofing it was dust proofing. Ultimate pain was yesterday did a RainX complete at the Brushless Car Wash $ 16 CDN it snowed then had to drive 45 min after the Salt Trucks did the highway now too bloody cold to wash it. it was black.

 

I think you deserve a pass! Kind of hard to keep a car clean in a Canadian winter....

 

really doesn't look too bad for canada...mine is worse at the moment due to road salt but the white color hides it more than black...i left it out in the rain last weekend and quickly hosed it down to get some of salt off but it snowed this week so it's now worse than it was last weekend