LOL dude you post keep getting funny. Those calculators which BTW I use the MOROS and have since I began racing in the 70's are very accurate in the perfect conditions. What you did not account for because you do not apparently have any real world experience is actual track condition. The temperature of the day the track temperature and the wind velocity and direction. Dude you are living a fantasy world. That is why I stated 100hp mark ...And professional racers will tell you that, LOL one more LOL .I ran NHRA Super Gas 9.90 and while I used the hand held speed calculator I still had to account for all other factors to dial in my car to win and not break out of my time.

Beside this thread has all been left by the OP and at this point you seem to want to argue a losing debate because IMHO lack of real world testing and your only responses is based sol y at this point on what you can find on the internet?
You have have not even been an well established member on this forum yet with a good starting point of contributions.

I went out this morning and weighed my OEM new from MAZDA wheel to compare to the American Racing and then realized why??? LOL You can go on the internet and find the informatio0n for your self.

I did however take a few pictures of my Auto Meter D-Pic Please feel free to find out some information about it and the accuracy on the internet as you are good for that.









While Auto-meter claims the D-Pic to be accurate I tend to agree having personally used dozens of them as well distributing and retailing them in my various shops them on many of my rides over the years since Auto meter first offered it. I have also test the accuracy as well many other professionals in the Performance business and found then also to be very accurate if mounted correctly. Here is the one in my 2018 Mazda 3 touring. I use it daily withe acceleration and braking G force setting which helps my improve my MPG and when I drive spiritedly in the mountain twitsies the later G force setting. Also and always when I make any modification that can effect most aspects of the Mazda driver characteristic which included reading the changes in OEM to the American racing wheels.

2650-1132.pdf (autometer.com)

 

I have actually and after lots of editing by a book editing company most can anyone can see my expertise was never grammar,syntax,spelling and sentence structure. LOL After ASE approval it was submitted to HP Books as a candidate for publication. The book was a HOW-TO Performance upgrade on a specific platform and specific model car. The same car to which I had a complete line of performance products that I engineered developed and had manufactured and distributed through my marketer. I have also contributed to a few technical performance books that are available as well written several supportive technical information in a few magazines and even had my own technical write up in a world wide British car newsletter published monthly for a few years entitled the American MGB. I also contributed to many TSBs for a few auto-manufactures in the 80's and up until early 90's.

Let me say it is funny at times belonging to so many forums that when I post something occasionally there is a member that wants to debate me and uses something they found on the www unaware I published.... LOL

 

Calculators almost never translate to real world results.
While I did reduce my motorcycle rim/wheel weights it never resulted with increased performance (except usually better handling).
I used to consistently beat others on the track that had more power to weight ration than my motorcycle.
Much is dependent on how that power is design engineered and applied to the track, plus weather, rider skill levels and type/temperature of tires.
Likewise, there were riders with better skills and better designed motorcycles that beat me with less HP/weight ratio.
It's great to have less weight and more power but it doesn't always result in better rotational mass or real-life results.

 

Hi .. I own a 2019 CX-5 Signature (Turbo) and being a big fan of K&N filters for quite a long time, I just installed one right when the manual said to replace the original filter, at 36,000 miles. To my surprise, I experienced the feeling of turbo lag and lethargic response from a stand still, definitely had to put more pedal into it. I was wondering whether this might happen as the OEM filter is pretty huge for a 4 cylinder (btw, it’s the same filter for turbo and non turbo) and is of very high quality, not your regular paper filter. With the amount of large pleats on the filter, it clearly is allowing for more air flow, or perhaps the engine is fine tuned somehow to the factory air filter’s air resistance. I don’t know, but the performance difference was clear, very surprisingly. Thought I would share this in the forum. Maybe K&N will come up with a Turbo version.

 

The K&N could not have done what you described with the exception unless it was serviced by the owner and the oil applied to heavily. But if that were the case you would have gotten a DTC because the map or IAT sensor would have been contaminated. The K&N has a great increase in air flow rate over any stock air cleaner so it is also not a air supply issues guess is you missed something doing the install and perhaps over looked something? I suggest to go back and physically remove the air cleaner and reinstall it.

Applications for Turbo , carbureted ,naturally aspirated fuel injected or supercharged version of an oem replacement air cleaner from K&N may very well all be the same. Specifically Turbocharged MAZDA same size engines as N?A the size of the air filter will make NO difference in the filtering and flow in an OEM replacement if it is applicated for the made vehicle, then you can be sure it works as advertised..