Car vibrating at all speeds
 

I bought my 2013 CX-5 over 2 years ago.I thought it was an amazing vehicle. So smooth I felt like I was floating down the highway. This summer it started to vibrate. At every speed. The engine also idles rough and I feel vibration. It has 82,000 km on it.
At first I thought it was tires. I have had several sets of tires put on the car and they have been balanced many times. The vibration continued. I took it to the dealership they told me it was the brakes. I have had front and back brakes replaced. The vibration continues. I have had several encounters with the dealership, and even been on drives in the car with technicians and they say they can't feel the vibration. I took a 2015 for a drive, it vibrated more than mine so I had no way to argue that my car didn't always vibrate.
I hate driving the car I used to love. I am so uncomfortable the entire time I'm driving the car. If the car had vibrated like this in the beginning, I would never have bought the car. The steering wheel, seat, gas pedal, and gear shift vibrate, so my whole body is vibrating when I'm driving. Sitting in the passenger seat is worse.
Anyone else have this experience and have any solutions? If it is the engine should I go an engine flush? I don't know much about cars, I just know this car doesn't drive the way it did when I bought it.
Thanks!

Well for starters, you need to provide a little more information. Like where in the world are you? Engine flush? Is this a diesel CX-5? Is it AWD or FWD? Have you gone over the dealer's head and complained/contacted Mazda _____ (fill in the country)? This really doesn't sound like it should be that difficult to diagnose. I've read of a few CX-5s with vibration issues and I think it turned out to be driveshaft imbalance on AWD models, but this is not common. These cars do not vibrate as a rule and you know that because yours was glass smooth for ___ (fill in the number of km)!

i think i would examine the motor mounts. if they are liquid filled, they dont last long, 60k miles is about right. i used to sell parts for bmw and mercedes, and the liquid mounts sold a lot. our 2 millenias have liquid, and they went out at about 60k. pricey little buggers, too. picture 2 metal brackets separated by a liquid filled chamber. when the chamber fails, both metal brackets touch, and then a lot of vibration is transmitted back to the body. beware of cheap imitations, they will be solid rubber, and will not damper out the vibrations.

Sorry,I didn't know how much I needed to provide, was just starting out with seeing if anyone else had the same experience.
I'm in Canada
It is an AWD CX-5
I have not gone to Mazda Canada. I didn't really think to do it. After taking it to the dealership several times and having the problem dismissed and going out in a newer CX-5 model that vibrated worse than mine, I really felt stuck with the problem. I have been considering getting a different car, but I wanted to check and see if anyone else has experienced exactly what I have.
It didn't start to vibrate until around 72,000km.

The technician I went for the first test drive with, did mention engine mounts, however he said it would be hard to tell which one it was even if they got in underneath it. He told me to get in touch with the Service manager and it was his CX-5 that I drove that was vibrating more than mine. I didn't really feel like I had a leg to stand on after this.
Kennin mentioned motor mounts are expensive, I got the extended warrraty to 160,000km. Would this be covered under warranty?

Kennin mentioned motor mounts are expensive, I got the extended warrraty to 160,000km. Would this be covered under warranty?

dunno. i never get extended warranties. i used to work for a bmw dealer, and i seen to many problems. and i dont know if the mounts are covered, or even if they are bad. but with vibration at all times, that is where i would look first. and again, i dunno if they are liquid filled, but if they are, they generally dont last long. and i always use a pry bar to look for movement, that is how i can tell

There is a big difference between Road Force Wheel and Tire Balancing AND regular Tire Balancing. This new system goes 1 step further by matching the hi spot of the tire to the low spot on the rim to get rid of your wobbling, shaking tire. Not all garages have this but "times they are a changin'!" If you are having issues with your tires whether it be low profile or not, seriously consider this before buying new tires, or even doing an alignment. Not all garages have this!
Please find a garage that has this and get it done. This would be your first best step in the process as this would definitely rule out tire/rim combination. Rims could be warped, dented. Then you could move forward to driveline, engine.

Road Force Balancing |*MotorWeek

+1 on the Road Force balancing. I've experienced it making a huge difference on my Miatas.

road force balancing aint gonna do squat at low speeds, or if the vehicle is stopped. if the mounts have failed, even non filled, there will be metal on metal, and vibration will be transmitted back into the cabin. some liquid filled mounts have solenoids or motors that control air chambers, and/or transmit liquid back and forth into chambers inside the mounts.

you have said it vibrates badly even at idle. Here's something to try.

Remove the engine under tray. Chock the wheels, place a trolley jack under the engine
( but don't pump it up yet ) you need to get in the car, start it up, put it in drive, get someone to slowly pump up the jack. does the vibration change or go away? if so then you need a new mount. Try the same by jacking under the trans.

Does it vibrate in Park or Neutral when you rev up the engine? If so it could be a motor mount or something loose on or in the engine. Otherwise...

Does the vibration increase with speed? What happens if you put the transmission into neutral while going down the road? If it vibrates here without the engine revving then it's something in the drive train.

If it only happens when moving and the engine engaged and revving then I'd suspect something in the transmission, drive shaft, rear diff, etc.