Hi, while I wasn't using my 2016 Mazda CX-5 much from working from home, my battery became low and needed to be charged. This happened twice over the past year. The second time, I noticed the e-brake dashboard light wouldn't go out but the e-brake functions properly.

I went to use my CX-5 last week and the batty was low again but had just enough to start the car. This time, many of the dashboard lights are lit, the speedometer stays on zero, I was able to disengage the e-brake but it will not re-engage, and the car won't turn off without me pressing the button a few times then holding it pressed. Even then, the radio stays on until I do that again.

Any ideas on what this is or what to expect if I end up having to go to the dealership? I usually fix my own car or at least know about what needs to be done so that I am not overcharged. I tried removing the battery for about 1 hour, fully charging it, then reinstalling and pressing the accessory button first before restarting to let the computer boot up, but that didn't help.

Thanks for any help or advice on what this is and what to do.

 

Sounds like the battery is shot and can't hold a charge anymore since it's died multiple times. The way to tell if it's got any life left is to have it load tested, but I suspect you'll need a new battery.

 

It does start absolutely fine after charging the battery. If the battery has enough charge now to start the car OK, could that still affect the dashboard lights, the funky way I have to stop the engine, the speedometer, and also I noticed that the power steering is a bit weaker.

 

Short answer: yes.
These modern cars with computer modules all over the place require a healthy battery. As the battery weakens, it can't keep the modules at the required electrical level and that results in false codes being sent which leads to all kinds of interesting results. I'd put a new battery in that puppy before taking it to the dealer. Some false codes may not clear immediately though, but most should.

 

Alright, I got my Mazda CX-5 in Nov. 2016 (it is a 2016.5). If I replace my battery, do I have to worry about resetting codes and that sort of thing like on a lot of modern cars that apparently you have to deal with this sort of thing when just changing a battery?

 

It should resolve itself immediately. If not then driving 50+ miles should do the trick. If you really need to then just get a cheap code reader tool and reset the codes.

 

Update: I just ordered a battery from Walmart - they had the best price and free shipping as well as being highly regarded batteries. I don't recall ever having to charge a new battery before installation... can you confirm if this is best practice or unnecessary?

Also, once the new battery is installed, if not corrected instantly, it sounds like a trip around the block isn't enough reset things - fixing the stop button issue, the dashboard lights, the E-Brake function, and that I get my speedometer and full power steering back. Should a drive around the block be enough or might it take a while of driving to reset things?

Also, once the new battery is installed, I can see if things reset - fixing the stop button issue, the dashboard lights, the E-Brake function, and that I get my speedometer and full power steering back. It sounds like a drive around the block isn't enough driving to reset things if things don't instantly come back up. It might take me a while to get 50+ miles

Thanks!

 

I wouldn't worry about charging it. A trip around the block might reset everything, but some of the lights may not go away immediately. If you still have any lights on the dash, driving the car for over 50 miles tends to reset most of the codes in the car's computer if it's not detecting the error anymore. Just start with putting the new battery in and go from there.

 

Allbatteries should be checked when new to have at least 12.50 volts. It is always a good idea to have them load tested before you install and use them, preferably before you leave the place of purchase . Sorta tuff when u mail order them.But not impossible to get done.
The engine check light is to let you know something is not correct. Resetting them in any fashion does not correct the problem only turns off the engine check light. Driving short distances does not correct the problem for many DTCs. It can and in many cases takes at least 1-3 complete drive cycles. However with a professional grade scanner you can actually see what area the ECU is pending and permanently storing the active DTC s as well monitors not in readiness can clue into events triggering the engine check light. So basically if you jump the gun and clear the code without first doing proper steps you fool yourself thinking the issue is resolved. long drives hoping things clear and the engine check light is turned off only really happens with DTC that are designated anomalies or single DTC mostly for a single part failed or failing that reports to the ECU that was replaced.

ASE

 

UPDATE #2:
I got a new battery, date on it is last month (3/24) and it tested 12.6v before I installed it. I did not charge it. The old battery after sitting just over a week measured 12.2V so even if the battery isn't the issue, it was time to change it.

I did a short test drive through my city onto the highway to the next exit and back home (just over 5 miles). The multiple dashboard lights are still lit, the power steering is still not as strong, the E-Brake doesn't engage, the stop button doesn't stop the engine unless I hold it in for about 5 or so seconds, then t\I have to do a similar thing to stop the accessories like the radio, the speedometer stay at zero when driving, and the front passenger blinker is out. I haven't yet tested to see if it's the bulb or...

Thank you. Yes, good point.... I wasn't planning on having codes reset with all of these issues I just listed above still present. I am trying to avoid the stealership, or at least arm myself with enough knowledge to help from getting taken in case I have to take my car in. When cars were simpler, I could either fix them myself, or I know what had to be done so I knew if I was being BS'ed or not.