I have replaced my battery in my 2018 Mazda CX-5 touring with a AGM Energizer battery this vehicle does not have Istop function on it does it require to be reset with a new battery installed and with the new battery my one touch power windows no longer work that way you need to hold the window button to lower the window. I would appreciate any help in this matter.

 

The one touch windows feature is something that you will have to reset when changing a battery.
You should check your specific owner's manual for the proper reset procedure.
However, the following will "generally work".

1. Start your CX-5.
2. Close all the doors and windows.
3. Open the window by pressing and holding the window control switch. When the window is fully open, keep the switch pressed for a few seconds.
4. Close the window by lifting and holding the window control switch. When the window is fully closed, keep the switch held for a few seconds.

If the above didn't work.

1. Start your CX-5.
2. Close all windows and doors.
3. Open the window by pressing and holding the window control switch. When the window is fully open, keep the switch pressed for a few seconds. Release the switch, then press it again and hold it for a few seconds.
4. Close the window by lifting and holding the window control switch. When the window is fully closed, keep the switch held for a few seconds. Release the switch, then pull it upward again and hold it.
5. The one-touch up and down features will then be fully functional.

 

Thank you for this information I did use the owners manual and the windows are working properly again I'm assuming there is no reset procedure for my Mazda CX-5 since it doesn't have the Istop feature on this vehicle. Thanks again 👍

 

A reset/reflash procedure is generally only needed for the I-Stop system with a battery change.
Unless you are experiencing any other issues (it seems you are not) it is not needed for your vehicle.

 

Thanks this information is much appreciated just wanted to insure that no reset for a replacement battery was required on my vehicle I appreciate you confirming this for me everything else is working normally.
Thanks again 👍

 

just to be clear.
There is no power supply back up to sustain a power when changing a battery. There may be some items that will need to be re-set and re-adjusted when you change your battery. All of these may not be obvious at first but nothing that would be considered a SAFETY or ECU= engine and transmission related concerns.
Naturally should you get a check engine light to have your ECU scanned as well ABS or any traction control system cautionary light checked ASAP with your Mazda dealership close to your current location.

 

Thanks for the information I have a Mucar CS scanner I did run the diagnostic check on the system no codes and no lights on the dash and took it for a short drive everything is working normal I appreciate the information better to be safe than sorry. This information you provide wasn't something I thought of when I changed the battery but very useful to me.

 

There are 3 main places to do a proper diagnostic scan. Less than that scan is incomplete. A common mistake most all DIY do when scanning is to look for active or current DTC(s) based on the check engine light only!

 

I wasn't aware there was more than one area to do a diagnostic scan my scanner hooks up to the OBD under the drivers side thats the only one I am aware of can you please tell me where the 3 main areas are that I should scan to insure is complete, I'm a DIU still learning with 3 years as an apprentice mechanic many years ago computers are still something Im learning same as the portable scanner I own. I appreciate your assistance and any further information you can provide. Thanks 👍

 

OBDI pre 1994, OBDII and Canbus, 1995 to present. So if you are still learning you have 30 years of learning to catch up on.

You may use the search feature and find my repeated respo0nses where members using a Diagnostic Scanner should be looking. I know I have posted this info dozens and dozens of times? Finding them is only part of the information the next is to know which ones are actual vs active because of anomalies possibly from the original caused the ECUPCM or even in some cases the TCM DTC activation. But seeing the basic area's give a clue to that and the first procedure how to know the important DTC vs the secondary ones from unre4soved possible problems.

Or you could wait it out for a few days of normal start set for 12 hours restart drive (engine cycle) and if the engine check light does not reactivate then chances are there is no ongoing unresolved problem?