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21 CX-5 - Underside seriously buttoned up.

Old Nov 29, 2021 | 08:14 AM
  #1  
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Smile 21 CX-5 - Underside seriously buttoned up.

Just broke down and got the first new car I have had in XXX years (a 21 CX-5). Previously was driving my Son's 2008 Chevy Cobalt for 4 years or so (until a fatal DIY mistake, which I have to admit to (with great pain). I will say that engine ran like a top, burnt NO oil, ran smooth as silk. This was surprising to me for a GM car but have to give credit where due. I would have kept driving it to the grave (would have been well over 200K) but my error cut that short.

Just a comment on the new CX-5 which surprised me. On the Chevy Cobalt there was large open metal areas underneath which I primed with Rustoleum (or equivalent) to stop or slow down rust, particularly in Winter. I looked under new CX-5 and the underside is buttoned up like a newly sutured patient. Amazing! I was completely amazed! The front has that plastic shield completely protecting the bottom of the engine/transmission. Back is pretty well sealed up too. I also notice they use some kind of non-metallic material on top of raw metal in areas where salt spray might travel up inside the chassis. Without having lifted up the Car yet, the only area I can see that needs some protection is the entire length of the exhaust system back to muffler. I bought some heat resistant Krylon primer which I will spray on the exhaust pipe, muffler, etc. before Winter sets in. Will clean and rough up the metal and then spray on paint. Perhaps not perfect rust-proofing product but should help.

Again, I was amazed! Haven't had new Cars in many years, and amazed at how Mazda addressed the rust concern.

Appreciate any comments, thoughts. Thank you. Reuben Vabner
 
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by reubenvabner
... the only area I can see that needs some protection is the entire length of the exhaust system back to muffler. I bought some heat resistant Krylon primer which I will spray on the exhaust pipe, muffler, etc. before Winter sets in. Will clean and rough up the metal and then spray on paint. Perhaps not perfect rust-proofing product but should help....
If you do some research, you will find that most automakers (Mazda included) have been using exhaust components which are built to last far longer than the junk they used in the past. So I recommend saving the primer for something that really needs it. But as always, your vehicle, your choice.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 10:55 AM
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Default Thank you. Appreciate your input.

Thanks much. Appreciate your feedback. Will see what I can find in terms of research. Best, Reuben
 
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 05:13 PM
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OP, don’t spray paint primer on an exhaust system. It gets hot enough to burn off any non-exhaust paint, particularly the front half. Leave the stainless steel tubing alone, “roughing it up” only damages it for no advantage.




.
 

Last edited by CarpeDiem; Nov 29, 2021 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 05:36 PM
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Default Thank you Carpe Diem

Fair enough. I will follow you advice. You know what you are talking about. Krylon claims to withstand temps up to 2,000F. But, if not advisable, I will not proceed.

Thank you for looking out for me. I do appreciate it. Reuben Vabner
 
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 05:39 PM
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One more comment. The can of Krylon High Heat Primer indicates it is "ideal for Headers and Exhaust Systems". Just for information.

But I will not proceed. Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 06:51 PM
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One more comment. The can of Krylon High Heat Primer indicates it is "ideal for Headers and Exhaust Systems". Just for information. But I will not proceed. Thank you.
You didn’t state it was exhaust primer in your initial post. While that particular primer (note that I specified non-exhaust paint in my post) will stay on, Krylon specifies that the primer must then be top-coated with high-temp paint. There is just no need to paint the exhaust system on modern vehicles to protect the metal.



.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by reubenvabner
Just broke down and got the first new car I have had in XXX years (a 21 CX-5). Previously was driving my Son's 2008 Chevy Cobalt for 4 years or so (until a fatal DIY mistake, which I have to admit to (with great pain). I will say that engine ran like a top, burnt NO oil, ran smooth as silk. This was surprising to me for a GM car but have to give credit where due. I would have kept driving it to the grave (would have been well over 200K) but my error cut that short.

Just a comment on the new CX-5 which surprised me. On the Chevy Cobalt there was large open metal areas underneath which I primed with Rustoleum (or equivalent) to stop or slow down rust, particularly in Winter. I looked under new CX-5 and the underside is buttoned up like a newly sutured patient. Amazing! I was completely amazed! The front has that plastic shield completely protecting the bottom of the engine/transmission. Back is pretty well sealed up too. I also notice they use some kind of non-metallic material on top of raw metal in areas where salt spray might travel up inside the chassis. Without having lifted up the Car yet, the only area I can see that needs some protection is the entire length of the exhaust system back to muffler. I bought some heat resistant Krylon primer which I will spray on the exhaust pipe, muffler, etc. before Winter sets in. Will clean and rough up the metal and then spray on paint. Perhaps not perfect rust-proofing product but should help.

Again, I was amazed! Haven't had new Cars in many years, and amazed at how Mazda addressed the rust concern.

Appreciate any comments, thoughts. Thank you. Reuben Vabner
Reuben,

"Previously was driving my Son's 2008 Chevy Cobalt for 4 years or so (until a fatal DIY mistake, which I have to admit to (with great pain)."

Did you really think that you were going to make a comment like this and not get called out on it?

C'mon man! Spill the beans and tell us what, and how, you screwed up.

And I agree with the above advice. No need to paint the stainless exhaust tubing.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 07:36 AM
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How I screwed up my Son's 2008 Chevy Cobalt? Changed out radiator hoses after 160K. They weren't that bad to the eye, but changed them anyway. Put some grease on the metal fittings to get the hoses back on as far as I could and screwed them on with screw-down clamps. Refilled radiator. Drove the next day from Massachusetts to New Jersey without incident. Then the next day, one of the two hoses popped of at the radiator end while driving. Of course the coolant emptied and I didn't see a warning light come on to my knowledge. Sure enough, car seriously overheated and toasted the head gasket. Either the hose popped because of the grease on the fitting, or I didn't tighten down the clamp enough (used nut-driver, not socket wrench). Also I did not 'burp' the radiator upon refill which, I understand, creates extra pressure in the system (?).

I suppose the grease on the metal fitting was a no-no, I should have used two clamps on all four ends, and should have used a socket wrench to get more torque on tightening, and should have 'burped' radiator. I had done more complicated work on the car then changing out the radiator hoses so was a bit painful to have to junk it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by reubenvabner
How I screwed up my Son's 2008 Chevy Cobalt? Changed out radiator hoses after 160K. They weren't that bad to the eye, but changed them anyway. Put some grease on the metal fittings to get the hoses back on as far as I could and screwed them on with screw-down clamps. Refilled radiator. Drove the next day from Massachusetts to New Jersey without incident. Then the next day, one of the two hoses popped of at the radiator end while driving. Of course the coolant emptied and I didn't see a warning light come on to my knowledge. Sure enough, car seriously overheated and toasted the head gasket. Either the hose popped because of the grease on the fitting, or I didn't tighten down the clamp enough (used nut-driver, not socket wrench). Also I did not 'burp' the radiator upon refill which, I understand, creates extra pressure in the system (?).

I suppose the grease on the metal fitting was a no-no, I should have used two clamps on all four ends, and should have used a socket wrench to get more torque on tightening, and should have 'burped' radiator. I had done more complicated work on the car then changing out the radiator hoses so was a bit painful to have to junk it.
shoulda coulda woulda

Sorry about that! How did your son react?
 
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