Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums - Mass airflow sensor 1991 B2600i

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RE: Mass airflow sensor 1991 B2600i

Can any one help me i have a 1992 mazda 4x4 pickup truck with a 2.6 engine in it well here is the problem i need to give it alittle starter fluid to get the truck started runs great for about 1/2 hour then shuts off won,t start back up till it cools off then it starts fine runs great again but after 20 to 30 minutes shut off again can you help me it is not the fuel pump new filter new ?

RE: Mass airflow sensor 1991 B2600i

If not fuel, assume you have looked at pressure and volume, then are you getting ignition spark when it will not start. Maybe a heated up ignitor is going out on you.

RE: Mass airflow sensor 1991 B2600i

Here is a link that may help a little, should atleast help you rule out what is good and maybe lead you to the area of the problem. It's better than that vodoo parts changer mechanic of yours. I still need to add more stuff to it.

1991 B2600i Basic FI Testing

Tools needed are a Digital Multimeter, and a fuel pressure tester that can handle 50 psi, it also has voltage readings for the air flow meter.

RE: Mass airflow sensor 1991 B2600i

Re Pistolzoid's problem: try this -- one at a time, unplug every electrical connector under the hood, blow out with compressed air (if you have it), inspect for corrosion/wetness, recrimp if possible and reattach. If not possible to recrimp, plug/unplug the connector several times to 'freshen up' the connection. In your case, pay particular attention to the four-wire plug that goes into the distributor. On my '93 B2600, the plastic on this plug disintigrated so much that all four of the wires were not making good contact. Result was symptoms like you describe. If yours it cracked also, it could easily let water inside and intermittently short out the contacts.

FWIW, I tried to find a new plug from Mazda. They don't sell it. Only the whole wiring harness for $800. So far, no luck at wrecking yards either (have actually never seen a 2600 at wrecking yard, so not much hope there). I ended up crumbling the plug in my bare hands and soldering each wire to each connector spade and attaching them individually. Smooshed silicone in around them. Looks crappy but have not had any problems with the truck since. BTW, I also noticed when I did this unplug/clean/replug thing the first time that the plug for my coil was not pushed in all the way. As I said, truck runs great now (knocking on wood as I type...)

Hi, I'm asking about my 1991 MPV V6. It has the following symptoms: (1) Idle would fluctuate up and down every other second or so when started cold; (2) after warmed up the engines still runs not so smooth; (3) However, it runs fine on freeways without any loss of power.

I have replaced the following: (1) Cap, rotor, wires and plugs; (2) Thermosensor, intake temp sensor, and O2 sensor all tested with specs; (3) All vacuum solenoid tested ok; (4) TPS and BAC tested OK.

Now what? Please help.. >_<

Quote:

Originally Posted by pistolzoid (Post 2719)

Howdy -- new here so please forgive any naivete.

Truck has recently had weeks/months of erratic behavior. Hesitations, surges at idle, stalling irregularly, etc. Of course, when I took it in, the problem wasn't chronic enough so...... Shop eventually replaced the coil but problems continued. They've done me right so far but last week was a bear.

Truck went almost belly-up and when I (barely) got it into service, they replaced some fouled plugs and wires. Still ran badly and found that computer wasn't activating two of the injectors. Replaced computer but truck now runs rougher than before. Am told that I now need a new airflow sensor.

Quandary is this: truck idled okay (for the most part) before computer was installed. Now, suddenly, the idle is out of whack. Coincidence? Reaction to new computer?

Also, have heard of cleaning sensor wires with brake cleaner but am skittish about fragility of the wires. Truck has 145K miles on it. If I pull the sensor and blast the wires, are they just going to dissolve or snap? How sturdy are they? And where do I find a replacement for less than a king's ransom?

First, did you ever resolve the problem? I'm experiencing this problem and have gone as far to replace my entire fuel system and ignition system. Currently I checked the voltage to my MAF and found it was all out of spec. I bit the bullet and bought a new one because 3 out of the 5 pins were corroded. I would advise checking the voltage and use mazdatrucking.com/b2600i.com for the specs. As for the ecm, I've heard great things about AVPRO repair. I got one from A1 Cordone and it works very well. Make sure you check if your truck called for the G618, G609, or G630. More than likely its the G618. I got a G630 initially and I had to advance the **** out of my timing to get my truck to run. Soon as I replaced it with the G618, it fired up no problem at 5° BTDC.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pistolzoid (Post 2750)

Never had the check engine light come on at all. At first, problems seemed to point to a vacuum leak of some sort. None found. Had had problems a year ago with a spark plug wire frying. The lurching was a little reminiscent of that so I was going to check that as well but everything happened before I could get to some time to look. In fact, the initial call from the shop was that plugs/wires needed replacement so that fit the profile. It was after that when everything hit the fan.

Could they have installed all this and not tuned or timed the new plugs? Seems unlikely but odder things happen in the world.

One thing: once it gets running and the idling is rough, if you pull the plug on the MAF, things even out. Reconnecting has to be fast or it stalls out. This is what I was shown when it was being explained that I'd need a new MAF.

Finally, when I start up after it's been sitting, it rumbles a little and conks out. When I restart, it rumbles again but seems to have just enough more to pull itself through. Almost like the first start "primes the pump" in a way. Back to the vacuum leak theory?

I have the exact problem with my truck and decided to look into it myself. I noticed a missing vacuum line off the Mass airflow which lead to the vacuum actuator, made me believe that my idle problem and transfer case for awd acting up is that missing line to the actuator.