I see. But the 2.6 seal can slide all the way out, whereas the 2.2 cannot

 

Here’s a pic of the old seal right before I removed it. When I removed the crank gear I found the seal just like this. Slightly protruding from the pump housing. I stuck the pick in the upper edge and flicked it right out. I probably could have done it with a wooden tooth pick.

 

Better outcome than on my factory 1971 VW engine in 2003; Mrs. Cusser was driving and a 6mm oil plate stud vibrated out after 32 years, and the oil started draining out. The red warning light came on, and the oil pressure gauge dropped to zero (both my 14-year-old daughter and Mrs. Cusser saw that) and Mrs. Cusser got scared and drove 3 miles until it stalled out.

I installed a new stud, and when I changed the oil, there were bearing slivers on the oil screen, but the engine still ran (yes, with lower oil pressure) and we drove it 3 years like that. In 2016 I tore that engine down to rebuild it for my 1970 VW sedan, and the #2 main bearing was what went bad. I had the engine re-machined, and I assembled it; amazingly, the crankshaft did not need to be re-ground, just polished.

Myself, I pay better attention to my vehicles, such as always glancing underneath as I approach it. Last "big" repair on my B2200 was a leaky wheel cylinder which also destroyed the brake shoes, was alerted by low fluid light float switch in the master cylinder reservoir. My 1998 and 2004 Frontiers do NOT have such float/warning system.

 

Wow, big difference in the size of those seals !

 

I didn't know that you and Susan Sarandon's twin sister were into that sort of thing.

 

Yep. I'll be 59 years old in a couple of months and I've been wrenching on cars since age 16. I've never cam across a seal this crappy! total junk!

BTW, the seals that came in both of the Engine Tech gasket kits I got were good quality.

 

In this vein, is the Mazda oem seal I can order from the dealership good? I assume it must be..

 

In general, I have confidence with Mazda and FelPro.