1989 B2200
 

i have a 89 b2200 with just 130000 miles on it and i have to change the master cylinder for the clutch... I NEED HELP!!!!!

RE: 1989 B2200
 

Not too difficult. You'll need 10mm flare nut wrench, 12mm socket, extension, ratchet, pair of 14mm wrenches, brake fluid DOT 3, some rags, can of brake cleaner. Place the rags under the master cyl. disconnect the clutch line 10mm. Next, remove the two 12mm nuts, pull the cyl. out. Reverse the procedure to install. Fill the fluid reservoir, pump the clutch pedal, hold the pedal down have
someone open the bleed valve of the clutch slave cyl. I forgot you need a 8mm wrench for this. Keep repeating this until only brake
fluid flows out. The pair of 14mm wrenches will only be used if you have to adjust the end play of the clutch pedal push rod. I usually finger tighten the rod to the cyl. piston then backoff one full turn. Then fire her up, give it try, may have adjust the rod some more. Be sure to clean off any brake fluid that gets on the paint.

RE: 1989 B2200
 

Additional notes:

The 8 mm wrench needs to be a brake line wrench otherwise you will strip the nut on the line.

If in doubt its better to adjust the rod to have a more play in it than too little. If it is too tight it may not completly release the clutch fork and you will burn up throw out bearings left and right.

Also for some reason master clutch cylinders on mazdas seem to be a pain in the but to try to bleed them. If you can't get it to start to bleed after about 20 min you might want to open the bleeder on the slave then cup a clean rag over the resevoir with the cap off and take an air nozzle and gentle blow a little air into it until you see fluid come out of the bleeder on the slave. You may have to stop and add fluid once or twice, once you see fluid come out then you can bleed it like normal. For some reason they don't like to gravity bleed to get it started so they need a little kick.

Yeah they won’t gravity bleed on the B2200’s because the line comes out of the cylinder and goes up and over the top of the reservoir. Any time a line goes higher than the fluid level, it wont flow via gravity.

That's when you make yourself one of these!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.maz...f28b5aeeb1.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.maz...e1e5d84dc9.jpg

Thats nice Earl. As an alternative could you use a portable compressed air tank? I mean put a regulator in the line and set it to maybe 10psi. Then gently use a blow nozzle to push the fluid through?

I've done exactly that (but not on my B2200), was on my 1971 VW Convertible:
I noticed that my 20+ year-old lifetime warrantied Autozone brake master cylinder was leaking, saw fluid on VW pan underside and under the MC boot.
Attachment 8585
Attachment 8586

The two electrical connectors were also a little loose on the brake switch terminals and are decades old; I've got new German ones on order from Samba member Heimlich, see classifieds https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifi...php?id=2372844

The driver side front wheel was removed, VW on jack stands. The master cylinder reservoir was emptied, then those switches were removed using a 24mm deep socket. Then the two line fittings could be removed, breaking them loose with an 11mm flare wrench (Supers only have two fittings/lines). The two blue flexible lines to the MC plastic "elbows" were removed (and later replaced with new special blue hose). Then the two bolts retaining the MC could be loosened - KEEP IN PLACE in the firewall - and the MC pulled out forward.

I took that in to Autozone and got a free replacement BRAND NEW MC they had ordered for me (Super MCs are different than in standard Beetles); fortunately, my receipt from 1994 from my rebuilt MC was still legible as before they went computerized.
Attachment 8587

This came with a bench bleed kit but unfortunately that did not have the correct type of fittings to bench bleed, so I used fittings from past MCs to bench bleed it.
Attachment 8588

I installed the new MC myself, used rag to hold the MC in place good enough to get the boot aligned and the two bolts threaded in. I advise getting a helper for this.

I wanted to try making a pseudo power bleeder to try. I found a cap in my garage that fit the VW MC reservoir. I drilled a 29/64" hole in the cap, because I had a tire valve stem that required a 0.432" hole. Then I pulled the valve stem through.
Attachment 8589

I filled the reservoir with new brake fluid, screwed on my cap with valve stem, set my air compressor to about 20 psi and attached it to the valve stem. Then I opened up the bleeders in sequence, filling up the reservoir as necessary to flush out all old brake fluid.

Success !

Nice work 🙂

A bit, late to this. However for future reference. The way, I did it for my clutch master cylinder.

Parts Needed:
A brain
Bench Vice
1ft of brake line (you can get it from Napa pre flared and with the correct fittings.)
Brake Fluid

I put the master cylinder in my vice, attached a short piece of brake line and bent into the reservoir. I purchased a 7mm (cant recall the exact diameter but with a micrometer you could find one.) push rod. Filled the reservoir with brake fluid, and bled it till no more bubbles. Didnt have to refill. Threw it into my truck, and bled the slave cylinder. It seemed to work to a tee.

Screwdriver, punch, dowel works to press in the MC piston when bench bleeding