Hello!!

My Mazda Premacy 1.8 12/2001 donīt start engine and security light is always off, it just turn on if i start ignition 5 times in less than 5 seconds. What to do?

BR

 

Hi,

it looks like I have a similar problem with my wife's 2000 Mazda 626 ES-V6.
We have this car for 2.5 years and two days ago went to the emission tests station
for a required procedure. That was the first time I've been asked to pass the emission tests with this car.
The technician over there, had connected the cable to the car and tried to start the engine. She could not, neither I could crank it up when she asked me for it.
This was out of the blue for me, completely.
They pushed me out of the station, so I get stranded over there.
At first, I thought that something happened to the battery (the image of the empty batter showed up on the dashboard then I tried many times to start the engine. I drove to the station quite a while, so, I did not quite believe that the battery is bad. Tried to jump start it with the help of the other car nearby, but with no effect. Towed to my mechanic, and he run the diagnostic tests. The readings show that there is the problem somewhere
pointing to:
1. problem with a key
2. powertrain (?) control - got it over the phone, perhaps, wrongly ?
3. Immobilizer unit
4. Immobilizer coil

I have only one key from the previous owner. Should I make a second key, first, or it is not very important ? Perhaps, I should start looking for a new immobilizer or a computer right away ? Do you have any suggestion where I could but those parts to save some bucks ?


Obviously, I am trying to minimize my expenses. Just called the Mazda dealership,
and have got some routine response like: "tow the car to us, and we'll run just diagnostics for $99", I guess, basically, to repeat the test I've got already from my mechanic !

Has anybody ever heard about the similar problem after a testing procedure I have had ? I am trying to understand why this happened. Perhaps, what could lead to something useful. Funny part is while I was trying to crank up the engine, stuck in the line, the station person gave me the test results saying that the car has passed the tests ! How could they complete the tests if the engine was not working ?

Thanks !

 

Sorry to jump into this thread with a new question rather than an answer, but I am new to the forum and cannot figure out how to start a new thread.
Recently, when I arrived at my destination, took the key out of my 2010 Mazda 3 and opened the door, the car began to beep like the key was still in the ignition. I did not see any dash indicators; just heard the beeping. When I exited the car, the remote locking mechanism would not work. Locked car from the inside front door panel. When I returned, I unlocked the driver's door with and drove home. Once there, I could not reproduce the problem. Dealer could not find a problem, either, but suggested the immobilizer. Does that sound correct, and if so what is the solution? All I can say for sure is the car was acting like it thought the key was still in the ignition when it wasn't. Thanks for any comments and, again, I apologize for interrupting this thread.

 

to start a new thread you need to be in the "forum" list, like "protege" or "genereal tech" or "Mazda 3". While on that list you have the "start a new thread" button on the upper left.
That's all I can do for you since I have no experience with immobilizers.

 

So...My car is 2003 Mazda 6 3.0L V6 S (AT).I have problem with ECU,ECU number is "ECU PCM Brain Computer Engine BDD3 AJ58 18881 G 3.0L V6 S ECM".The thing is that Ecu's one of the cheap/micro scheme burned,and because of this one of the cylindrs stopped working(but car is still running).My question is next:Is there any difference and if it is what difference is between 2.3L ECU's cheap and V6 3.0L cheap???Can I use 2.3L ecu cheap for V6 3.0L???
SORRY FOR MY BAD ENGLISH I HOPE YOU CATCH WHAT I SAID

 

K:
I am sure you must use an ECU for a 3L V6. ECU's are specific for the engines. Refer to the engine code in your VIN and find an ECU for that. You will waste money if you buy an ECU for another engine.

 

Hi Dear,

I have purchase a new Immobilizer module.
I have to new cut keys.
Input codeword.
Now the Immobilizer LED stay on solid.

Please let me know ho I can solve this issue.

Thanks
Mils

 

OK, so, I have a few questions about the ECU on my vehicle. First of all, my car is a 2005 Mazda Tribute S 3.0L v6. I'm not sure if I need to replace the ECU or not. It started off with a small miss. Thought I may have gotten bad gas somewhere but it gradually got worse. Before I parked it, it would barely pull a hill. The car light with the key inside on the dash was doing some blinking but I never knew why. Can I reprogram my ECU or should I just replace it all together? If I replace the ECU with a rebuilt ECU that has the exact matching numbers as mine, do I need to program it to my vehicle? And if so, how do I go about doing that?

 

If the vehicle starts, then its not a immobiliser problem. The key light will flash every 5 seconds when the ignition if off.

I would get the vehicle scanned for DTCs ( diagnostic Trouble Codes ) followed by a tune up and then a inspection of the Cats - Catalytic convertors ( all three of them )

Tributes are known to block the cats & run like they have no throttle.