Clutch slave cylinder R & R.
#11
With it and the car being that old, I'd simply replace it. You've already stated you are having problems with travel and feel, and that's usually an indication (in my experience at least) that the cable is stretched and ready to break.
As far as replacing it goes, its usually a matter of removing a clip or cotter from the pedal itself to release the pin, then a big nut at the firewall, then another big nut on the bell housing, followed by another end held on by a clip and another pin.
Not that hard, really. The adjustment is usually at the bell housing, but not always. It could be at the firewall as well. Volvo's used to be like that.
What I would suggest is lubricating the new cable EXTREMELY well before installing it. What I used to do, back in the day, is pull the boot back on the bell housing side and generously pack it with thick grease. Wheel bearing grease works great for this. Replace the boot and pull back the other boot (pedal side) and fill the void with a good quality lubricant, and pack that with thick grease. I used to use Tri-Flow which worked GREAT, but is pricey, if you can even find it these days.
You will not believe the difference if you replace the cable, and doing what I suggest will not only make it feel better right out of the box, but it will last longer than the car itself.
That's my story, and I'M stickin' to it!!
BTW: I'll take a good cable actuated clutch over hydraulics any day of the week and twice on Sunday. If done right, you can't beat 'em. Safe, easy and reliable, and no fluid to bleed out every year or two, and no cylinders or hoses to rebuild or replace. Simple perfection.
Last edited by virgin1; 04-17-2014 at 08:43 PM.
#12
clutch cable m323
Virgin 1--
I got underneath the dash to start the job of removing the cable, I will s----t you not, I can hardly get two fingers to remove the fork pin from the cable to the pedal let o lone my hands. The only thing that I see possible is to drop the pedals and maybe I might have enough room to remove the pin and then the cable. I'm serious-there is no room under the dash.
Is there a way to disconnect the cable that is a little easier.
Thanks.....
I got underneath the dash to start the job of removing the cable, I will s----t you not, I can hardly get two fingers to remove the fork pin from the cable to the pedal let o lone my hands. The only thing that I see possible is to drop the pedals and maybe I might have enough room to remove the pin and then the cable. I'm serious-there is no room under the dash.
Is there a way to disconnect the cable that is a little easier.
Thanks.....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
backintime
Mazda BT 50 & Pickup Trucks
3
05-27-2007 06:03 PM