I have an '88 Mazda 323 (std transmission) with about 128,000 miles. It has run very well and only needed routine maintenance to date. But recently it suddenly died while driving it. I have replaced all tune-up parts (plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap & rotor, and fuel filter). I also checked the resistances that I could check with a simple voltmeter per my Chilton manual. All that seems o.k. I don't think it's an alternator problem because the battery still had a good charge and would the engine for a good while. With the distributor cap off, I could see that the rotor still spins while ing. I am guessing that means that the timing belt is still in one piece; besides, I just replaced it about 20,000 miles ago. Removing enough hardware to see the entire timing belt is quite a job and I don't want to do that if there's a simple test to see if it's o.k. My Chilton manual does not contain anymore helpful advice to diagnose the problem. From previous posted messages, I gather that the vehicle has some sort of computer brain ("module") somewhere. Could someone enlighten me as to where it is and how to replace it? Also, is this an excessive expense to keep this car running?
When replacing the fuel filter, there was some gasoline leakage. I am guessing that means that the fuel pump is still pumping. Is there a simple test for the fuel pump, particularly one that doesn't get you covered with gasoline?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,

 

Have you tried the old spark test of pulling the coil wire out of the cap, holding half inch from a ground source and cranking, you should
blue spark. If no spark, retest ignition coil with ohmmeter. If it's good, your problem is in the distributor igniter/pickup coil which some time
just drops dead, other times once it hot, it will quit and work ok after cooling down. These parts are not cheat, monday I priced a set
out at the dealer and it was cheater to buy a reman distributor.

 

First check to see if there is fusible links (and fuses) that burned up near battery. Second, the car will crank with a higher sound when timing belt breaks cause it will not be working to turn the water pump/cams/etc. The timing belt tensioner may have broke. Third, is the fuel pump electric and is the car turbo or fuel injection? You probably need to see if there is a place to check pressure on injector rail if so equipped and do not forget to check for volume of flow. Take the battery out and have it tested. They go dead and can be un-chargable or have one dead cell which may start the car but under working load cannot maintain and just goes dead-even with a good alternator. Above seems to have the details on distributor etc. Let us know how you progress.