I do that hike every day. If I see the Mazda 3 today that I saw yesterday I'll snap a picture and post here if I can. It was a bright blue. Of course, I was starting to think about what do I do if my 1997 626LX 2.0L has a major problem? So, walking the sidewalks of Berkeley, I was noticing some cars. Few look sensible for me but that Mazda 3 definitely looked like it might. I think it said AWD on the body.

Is yours AWD?

 

No.

This was prior me installing suspension upgrades. I posted the picture more in fun. The Mazda 3 are very reliable and in the shop are actually when comparing the least problematic of other Mazda's and other makes of vehicles. Cant say past 2018 (2019-2023) however? It seems like I get more of them then older Mazda 3 for various service issues after the Warranty expiration?

 

So, you are saying you get more service issues with Mazda 3's that are newer than the 2018? Online says the latest generation of Mazda 3 was introduced in 2018, is yours the latest generation?

I brought my '97 626LX 2.0L to Autozone today and they load-tested the battery and said it was absolutely fine. Then they hooked up to the ECU. Here's what the printed report says:

Check Engine: FAIL
ABS: PASS
Emission Ready: NO
Service Interval: PASS

MOST LIKELY SOLUTION
-----------------------------------
Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Suggested Parts: 0

TEST RESULTS

Power Train System Code: P1407

Exhaust Gas Recirculation No Flow Detected
Code P1407 indicates that with the vehicle driven above a specified speed and then returned to idle, the PCM did not detect a change in exhaust gas recirculation back pressure during the EGR Monitor self-test.

Secondary DTCs
P1407 (PCM) Detected no (EGR) Flow
- - - -
Now, as I said in the OP, the car passed smog test in May with flying colors. Here's what it said for NO (PPM):
Test __MAX __ AVE __MEAS
15 mph 467___ 67_____ 0
25 mph 754___ 62_____ 4

Do you think a PGR Valve failure is what's happening here? I see that part is maybe around $70. I'm pretty DIY but not very in cars, but have a lot of tools including socket wrench set, etc. etc. I also have drive up risers I use to change the oil. Could I do this easily myself? I made appointment with a shop a mile away for Tuesday, but can cancel, of course. They said won't hurt to drive the car mean time (I have an appointment Thursday I need to get to, a 5 mile drive each way). What do you think?

 

There is no guessing. The problem as I said is that you drove for more then a cycle or more with whatever the 1st DTC was.
So what that reports shows is the need for a Automotive Diagnostic Technicon (not a mechanic0 needs to start from scratch with your Mazda. Clear the code and then wait a day start the engine and start scanning to see whcih was or what are all the actual problematic area's. The information you got while good has to many overlapping issues.

The first thing I see is the PCM as the possible cause.... DO NOT SHOW THIS REPORT to where ever you go!!
The first thing is there is not enough evidence to point to the PCM itself yet. I would hate to see you buy one have it installed and then the shop say well the PCM was the problem but did not cure all the problems. Definition they did not know what they were doing and guessed based on the report!

I recommend to look for a shop in or about your area that they are a registered ASE certified shop . To be ASE certified they must employ at least one current certified Automotive mechanic or better Automotive Diagnostic Technician.

The EGR valve most any competent mechanic can check and it is not that challenging to change.

But I live by a rule that I never change nor do I recommend changing any part that has not first been check and verified as a failed or problematic part. You are asking for the possibility of adding additional problem to the original unresolved ones.

It to bad that there scanning device or the person using it could not see the permeant files? But that ok you got enough info for me to post this responses.
Did they at least clear the findings. but again this does not matter because without a scanned you can not check the ECU/PCM as soon as the dash check engine light is activated. ?

My Mazda is sorta an in-between. This is more personal opinion then really fact based but IMHO The 2019 has many new items features over my 2018, but the 2017 and older IMHO is a little less of everything?? lol

 

Thanks for the detailed response! I'll make sure the shop I go to has an ASE guy who will work on it.

Edit: I just looked up the shop I have an appointment to bring in the car Tuesday morning, Oceanworks in Berkeley. Looks like they are about perfect based on this from their website (I bolded the bits about ASE certification and their specializing in Japanese cars):

Standards

We strive to be fair and accurate when it comes to all of our repairs, and we aim for the highest level of service we can offer and never compromise when it comes to quality. To do so, we utilize state-of-the-art equipment and technology when servicing your car to ensure that our work is always done right. Additionally, we use OEM or better parts, top-notch products, and employ skilled ASE certified technicians who are passionate about what they do.

Specialties

Oceanworks Berkeley has been highly regarded as the Japanese vehicle specialists in the Bay Area, with over 200 years of automotive experience combined among our professional technicians. Many of our employees have worked at our shop for over two decades, and the Japanese vehicle owners in the area know that they can come to us with any vehicle problem or concern they may have.

 

Yes I am and yes ASE's (most) all are!


Good luck let us know what they find and how it works out !

 

You may think I'm nuts, I don't know. Brought the car to Oceanworks in Berkeley, ASE certified shop. They tell me I'm getting one of their "master mechanics" an ASE certified who's been working with them over 20 years, so he probably knows this car to begin with. They used to be a Honda and Toyota specialty shop but expanded to Japanese cars in general.

They estimated the work to begin with, said my EGR solenoid appeared to be going bad. Said I needed some other stuff done: negative terminal of battery cracked, oil change, maybe couple other things, quoted me $2500. I said OK. I looked in my owner's manual and saw where they say to replace fuel filter and air filter at IIRC max 4 years, spark plugs too. I call and mention that to them. They said they hadn't done a general inspection, for $200 they would do that. I say OK. They came up with a bunch of stuff, including drive belt replacement, other belts (power steering, alternator) needed replacing. Brakes front and back need service. Radiator needs replacement. Constant Velocity Axel Assembly, left and right, needs replacement. They had trouble locating them but next day they did. The total estimate is $6600 or so, plus fluids. I asked them to email me the details, it came to 5 pages printed out. I called and said OK. Maybe I'm nuts. Obviously a lot of money to put into an old car but it has less than 36000 miles on it. Maybe with all this stuff done it will last a few years, meantime I can think about my next car. What do you think?

 

A positive PM is sent. It may be helpful for your personal Mazda ONLY

 

Soooo members that may have a thought should consider before they respond a few things.

Location: They should at least be in California and more specifically Northern California because of the current state and, county and city hourly rates.
Part suppliers: They should know the area of the shop being used and a guess as to whop all the parts suppliers they use. This has a direct influence it he parts cost so often misunderstood by owners and DIY on forums
They should read clearly in your response that it is an ASE rated service shop. These type of shop have good reputation and are not like none ASE rated service shops.
The complete estimate of the work order should really be posted so that misunderstanding of the costs is not incorrectly concluded. Often misunderstood on forums.
The warranty of the complete service and the parts should be a large consideration when asking for a review of a shop and what they are servicing.


IMHO based on the short response and limited details you made but overall seems right in line . It would be somewhat close to an estimate I would write up in our shop. But I don't have all the detailed information about yours like brand of parts. I do know who their part suppliers may be in that area which there is at least one wholesale warehouse parts distributor, but also several retail auto parts that offer shop discounts.

 

They said warranty is 2 years/48,000 miles (not sure of the miles, but no way I'm driving over 20k in the next two years).