Electrical issue
Tonight I went to get in the car and drive. The first thing I noticed while still parked was that when I flicked on my headlights, the dash lights didn't appear to be as bright as normal. I didn't really worry about it. But when I went to take off I noticed my headlights were also incredible dim. So i turned on my high beams. Then those started to dim. Now low beams are basically non existent. I also found that while my headlights were on, my tach stopped working. With only the dash lights on (not the headlights) my speedo would stop working. When I use my turn signal in either direction, the tach needle bounces at the same time the blinker clicks, from 0 rpm (even while in motion) I replaced the alternator about 3 or 4 months ago so hopefully that's not the issue. The last time I drove my radio was shutting off but coming back on immediately about half ways home. Also, my ABS has flicked on at one point but never stayed on. I drive a 95 Protege ES. Thanks in advance
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Get your battery tested & check the output of your alternator.
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Quick Trick...
Years ago the way we tested alternators was to turn on the engine... and then remove the negative battery cable from the battery. If the vehicle kept running, then the alternator was ok and putting out juice. If the engine stopped running, then it meant that the alternator wasn't putting out... and thus needed to be replaced.
CX5T Lover |
Cx5t, I'm actually aware of that. Earlier I had done that test and the car had died leaving me to think my alternator was bad. I ended up removing it from the car and took it down to a local parts house. 2 tests later they said the alternator was not the problem.
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What was the voltage output at the alternator? What was the battery voltage when running?
Has any mechanical, electrical or panel work been done on you car lately? |
Years ago the way we tested alternators was to turn on the engine... and then remove the negative battery cable from the battery. If the vehicle kept running, then the alternator was ok and putting out juice. If the engine stopped running, then it meant that the alternator wasn't putting out... and thus needed to be replaced. On one of these cars a $10 multimeter will easily let you know what voltage is occurring at the battery, with engine running and lights off should have about 12.5 minimum to 13.8 volts |
Thanks...
Originally Posted by peedee
(Post 153172)
The problem with that these days is that the computerized systems are so sensitive to voltage spikes or variations that it may fry the PCM.
CX5T Lover |
Thanks for letting me know that. I guess my previous post just showed you how long it's been since I've worked on a vehicle. |
Hi just a quick reply, make sure you also have a good earthing system. Check/clean the battery terminals and earthing points both on the engine and chassis. Make sure too that your battery cables are not damaged and give a good continuity. The alternator should also be correctly earthed and the terminals should give good continuity and be clean and secure.
Hope this helps. |
Hey, just wanted to give you guys an update.. I have since fixed my issue, and after testing my voltage I was only sitting at around 5 and a half volts running through my battery. I took my battery out and ended up picking up a new one. I haven't had the issue again so far. I thought everything would be pointing to my alt. but I suppose that was not the case here. Thanks guys for your help and suggestions. Much appreciated.
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