ECU Remap Chips That Really Work?
#1
ECU Remap Chips That Really Work?
This is a tough question as typically it garners responses that are mostly guesses without any real evidence one way or another. By evidence I mean, someone actually dyno tested the difference any chip might make in power and torque. Not, it "felt" faster, or "I heard these were a scam." It's widely known stock ECU programming is conservative. If you have a car programmed to take 87 regular octane it's common knowledge you can increase horsepower if you use higher octane fuel and advance the timing (and alter air/fuel mixture) as the higher octane fuel will not create engine knock when advancing the timing and you'll get more power.
Now the $20 chips on Ebay I would say, you get what you pay for (practically nothing) but what about the $100-$200 chips that plug into the OBD2 port? Are then really any different than the cheap Ebay models? I've also seen chips that plug into a sensor under the hood and others you splice in.
Wondering if anyone has found a brand that is reputable, producing products that actually give you some real gain in HP/Torque (like 7-10% or more) in conjunction with running premium gas. Someone that's either done a before and after dyno test or before an after with a performance meter like a Passport GT-2 or can point to reliable information backing up your claims.
Now the $20 chips on Ebay I would say, you get what you pay for (practically nothing) but what about the $100-$200 chips that plug into the OBD2 port? Are then really any different than the cheap Ebay models? I've also seen chips that plug into a sensor under the hood and others you splice in.
Wondering if anyone has found a brand that is reputable, producing products that actually give you some real gain in HP/Torque (like 7-10% or more) in conjunction with running premium gas. Someone that's either done a before and after dyno test or before an after with a performance meter like a Passport GT-2 or can point to reliable information backing up your claims.
Last edited by Jazee; 01-31-2019 at 12:00 PM.
#2
Modern engines are tuned to meet ridiculous emissions and efficiency regulations. Aftermarket tunes often work like a video game slider, allowing the driver to choose his own balance between performance and economy.
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Last edited by winkybil; 09-27-2020 at 05:04 AM.
#4
Your comment is not exactly accurate! It is a blanket statement and to be somewhat valid you need to be specific about what platform and model vehicle you are talking about.winkybil 'sresponse is amusing at best and also not really accurate.
#5
I got an email reply from OrangeVirus (one of the few places I didn't find in my prior search.) They confirmed they can do it for my 2019 CX-5. It's basically the same process as taking your car into a tuner but it's just done over the Internet. They send you the necessary cable for your laptop and software and you read the stock ECU program, then you do some data logging while driving. They then send you a new calibration to upload after examining the data. You can select which octane you want it tuned for. Pretty slick for $500. I may give it a try. My only concern is if I have it calibrated for 91 what if someone accidentally puts 87 octane fuel in my car? Would I just get some knocking or would the ECU still dial back the timing based on the knock sensor reading? Waiting to hear back on that question. Plus I assume you can upload the stock calibration file at any time you want.
I'm guessing for normally aspirated engines, you're probably only going to get 7% to maybe 12% at best HP/torque increase to take advantage of the higher octane fuel (without getting overly aggresive on the calibration). So then the question becomes, if this is for basically everyday driving of a mainstream mid-level SUV, is it really worth the cost and hassle. That's a personal preference question obviously. If I was tracking a MX-3 or something it would be a no brainer. If Mazda didn't put such a premium on the price for slapping a little turbo charge on their engine ($5K increase on a $30K car), I would have just got a turbo model. You know including development cost, they're making a higher profit margin on selling a "premium performance" model.
I'm guessing for normally aspirated engines, you're probably only going to get 7% to maybe 12% at best HP/torque increase to take advantage of the higher octane fuel (without getting overly aggresive on the calibration). So then the question becomes, if this is for basically everyday driving of a mainstream mid-level SUV, is it really worth the cost and hassle. That's a personal preference question obviously. If I was tracking a MX-3 or something it would be a no brainer. If Mazda didn't put such a premium on the price for slapping a little turbo charge on their engine ($5K increase on a $30K car), I would have just got a turbo model. You know including development cost, they're making a higher profit margin on selling a "premium performance" model.
Last edited by Jazee; 09-27-2020 at 01:12 PM.
#6
I have talked to them "once" couldn't even answer simple questions.......that a Calibrator should know. IMHO they are self taught ,use customers to experiment and offer canned toons.
I have been a ECU/EFI Performance calibrator since the early 20's. NOT self taught but actually paid for the schooling and acquired a certification in Performance ECU Calibrating. Their program is not new to the aftermarket ECU calibration industry but is advertised for specific models leading to believe it is platform specific.
Its your money....spend as you best see fit
When I do Calibration I allow the customer to be able to adjust what ever they want at their own risk. NO LOCKED ECU> This is important to get whomever you get a ECU calibration from. You paid for it you should own all the information that is in your ECU! I also give them a Base file that they can revert back to OEM ECU in all aspects. This is fail back up incase they get over their head with making their own ECU calibration changes. They can also use files I have created by interpreting their DATA logs required by me that have different calibration files for driving style and fuels used. This takes a minimum of an hour on my part per file. The better ECU Calibrators will tell you that their is no short cuts and that changing and making custom ECU files is labor intensive.
Canned toons are easy make a couple fueling and timing adjustment give the adjustment to customer and tell them "YOU SHOULD FEEL A DIFFERENCE" Psych job at its best!
Your estimate of increases are way off for their basic package . Truly what should be done is you add supported power parts and then do a DATA log and adjust to tie everything together to gain the most potential out. Butt DYNO do not count as real world increases. I can shorten the throttle percentage controller actuation cell in the ECU that would make you think you have Nitrous. But it in reality does nothing for any increase in HP or Torque. LOL
If you have your heart set on spending 500 for a canned /generic ECU "TOON" you can not later say you did not read about the negatives first and from this forum later.
EDIT: I won't be returning to this thread because what I have learned is unless a member has actually done some ECU calibrating thus having at least some basic experience then its pointless to respond to members that have zero frame of reference to the subject material .
I have been a ECU/EFI Performance calibrator since the early 20's. NOT self taught but actually paid for the schooling and acquired a certification in Performance ECU Calibrating. Their program is not new to the aftermarket ECU calibration industry but is advertised for specific models leading to believe it is platform specific.
Its your money....spend as you best see fit
When I do Calibration I allow the customer to be able to adjust what ever they want at their own risk. NO LOCKED ECU> This is important to get whomever you get a ECU calibration from. You paid for it you should own all the information that is in your ECU! I also give them a Base file that they can revert back to OEM ECU in all aspects. This is fail back up incase they get over their head with making their own ECU calibration changes. They can also use files I have created by interpreting their DATA logs required by me that have different calibration files for driving style and fuels used. This takes a minimum of an hour on my part per file. The better ECU Calibrators will tell you that their is no short cuts and that changing and making custom ECU files is labor intensive.
Canned toons are easy make a couple fueling and timing adjustment give the adjustment to customer and tell them "YOU SHOULD FEEL A DIFFERENCE" Psych job at its best!
Your estimate of increases are way off for their basic package . Truly what should be done is you add supported power parts and then do a DATA log and adjust to tie everything together to gain the most potential out. Butt DYNO do not count as real world increases. I can shorten the throttle percentage controller actuation cell in the ECU that would make you think you have Nitrous. But it in reality does nothing for any increase in HP or Torque. LOL
If you have your heart set on spending 500 for a canned /generic ECU "TOON" you can not later say you did not read about the negatives first and from this forum later.
EDIT: I won't be returning to this thread because what I have learned is unless a member has actually done some ECU calibrating thus having at least some basic experience then its pointless to respond to members that have zero frame of reference to the subject material .
Last edited by Callisto; 09-27-2020 at 02:14 PM.
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